If you can get, and keep, the crepe myrtle to a single trunk, it won't be as wide as a multi-trunked tree. The flowering branches do extend pretty far out, and can hang down/droop gracefully as the blooms open, possibly as wide as tall, but I haven't measured any big ones that were single trunk. That's why I suggested planting further from the sidewalk, so it doesn't block the walk. You could trim any branches that overhung the walkway back to the trunk, although the CM as a whole might look lop-sided. I am not sure you WANT to prune a 20 foot tree to keep it lower, unless you have access to a cherry picker, as it's rather hard to be safe that high up and reaching to prune? (if you are an aerialist, line-man, or professional arborist, then never mind) And CM's don't look good pruned shorter, IMO. Look up "crepe murder" on this forum or Google for it, and find photos of each, and you can see the differences in "murdered" treees and trees left to grow naturally. Trimming for shape is one thing, trimming for height is much harder to do and keep the tree looking natural. Try to find a CM cultivar that won't get taller than you want the ultimate height to be, and be aware that it will take some years for it to grow to that height. While I love lamb's ears, unless you get a non-flowering variety, be aware that it might not be the best for next to a public walkway. The bumble bees LOVE the flowers, and while you do have to work pretty hard to get a bumble bee to sting, it might upset the neighbors and passers-by to hear and see them buzzing happily. Not many people are aware of the differences between bb's and honey bees, and can react badly to any buzzing, bee-like insect.

hey mr mike.. where are you ... on your members page.. you ought to be able to include zone info next to your name.. so i dont have to go reread all the posts to see if you answered that before ... the issue is what will thrive... where you are.. it wont help if we name a bunch of stuff that wont work for you ... first pic... opposite corner.. what a freakin nightmare ... and basically.. it is your dream... to recreate it with a huge evergreen conifer ... i suggest you go dwarf.. for something that will not turn into that other corner .... and i would not go with one plant.. boring .... how about an intermediate pungens .... slower growing.. and a couple yellow arbs .... no time for pix right now ... all dependent on your investigation about the well ... ken PS: one problem.. if that well ever fails.. research the well drillers access to that site.. and how much space they would need to redrill.. nothing like setting up a nice grouping.. only for it to be ruined in the future ... i am still not sure i would put expensive large plants there ....

Yes, you can insulate between your floor joists, but ..... it's not the most cost-effective first insulation project if you're starting from no insulation. The best is the attic, and then make a huge effort to seal up air infiltration throughout the house (caulking, mostly). But you have another problem with your basment (aside from the squirrely foundation issues) and that's moisture vapor rising from the dirt. That you interupt with a good moisture retardant material laid directly on the dirt and well sealed at the foundation. You could also do an air infiltration barrier under the floor (without moisture control); staple it just under your joists it will help prevent cold air getting into your living space. It doesn't insulate, just blocks pressurized air from coming up. But I wouldn't do that until you had blocked moisture vapor at the soil level. The insulate the walls (of the cellar) first recommendation may not really apply to your situation, and anyway I have read here some comments suggesting that it might do some damage. (I have no opinion about that, I'm just passing info I've seen here.) But first, you need to get the bulge/settling problem sorted out and at least know what you must do. After that you can decide whether that project is going to happen soon, or will be put off indefinitely. Then it would be time to decide what else you want to do in that space: Moisture barrier on soil, infiltration barrier under joists and/or insulation between joists. If you chose to do it all, I would square away any electrical or plumbing changes (including insulating any water/drain pipes), insulate between joists, install air infiltration barrier and finally install the moisture barrier on the floor. In addition you need to think through your furnace/boiler arrangements. You may need to insulate the pipes or air ducts, as well. If you create a thermal break between the unheated cellar and the heated living space, you can create problem with your heating plant. I have no advice there as I don't have central heating. If you're just "itching" (LOL) to get some insulation installed, do the attic first, and soon, as the temps up there will get unbelieveable in just a few weeks. Or you could take a wait and see approach and resign yourself to having not the most energy efficient house while you experience a full year's life in the building and can make better choices based on what find. There's good counsel in taking a go-slow approach to old house care. Less of a risk of an inadvertent bad choice. BTW: my personal choice for between the joist insulation is rigid foam sheets. Molly~

I would recommend removing one of the branches, but before giving a definitive answer I would like to know what type of crape myrtle you have. It should have come with a tag. Also, a picture of the whole tree so I can get a better perspective. If its a shrub and you want a unwieldy shrub, then let it be, but if it is situated in a prominent location in your landscape, then I would train it by pruning. A tree type crape can have only one main stem and look great in certain locations, I have 175 crape myrtles and most have 3-5 main stems, but I do have one stem ones here and there. Most of the shrubs ones have close to 5 stems and the tree types have 3. All of them were trained starting in 2000 and today I do minimum pruning.