Another local here to second Al's opinion! While this season is a little unusual (a bit colder and wetter), we really do not receive all that much rain in the Puget Sound area - totals are MUCH lower than many other parts of the country - and our summers tend to be very dry. Glads do beautifully here and can even be left in the ground over winter without worry. They tend to be blooming here in midsummer. I'd look for them around the middle of July.

Here is a link to the article that I found. http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/ABPub/zoom/html/2008687811.html

Summers are dry here, that is the main limitation - you must be prepared to water new plantings the following summer. And the many popular garden plants not adapted to summer drought, such as rhododendrons, azaleas and a thousand other types may need to be watered indefinitely, summer after summer to give good results - or even remain alive - depending on the individual circumstances. Speaking of broadleaf evergreens, those are the type most likely to fail from winter planting. As with other large categories, there is a wide range of hardiness. But, due to having broad leaves present, instead of bare twigs, needles or scales all share the same comparative vulnerability to drying out during Arctic conditions - newly planted stock subjected to a cold front before there has been enough rooting out to get adequate moisture from the soil outside the original root-ball may burn up. Fall is the optimal time for planting hardy stock, those that have not had the roots disturbed much at planting will take root if planted early enough and be well along before spring. (60% of annual total elongation of tips of existing roots occurs in fall, after overwintering buds have been set and a chemical signal prompting root growth is sent from them down to the roots. So, fall, in this context, is whenever a particular plant has set these buds; a drought-responsive species like vine maple might have dormant buds set and be actively growing longer roots in August). The exception is if roots have been found to be deformed when taken out of the pot or unwrapped, or it has been assumed that the roots inside the ball may need to be corrected (a very common problem, due to failure of growers to pot on in a timely manner) and the ball has been washed and opened up at planting. Not much root growth happens in winter, and in spring new roots are made. Bare-rooted stock will basically just sit there until spring, when opening overwintering (dormant) buds again send chemicals to the roots, causing new roots to burst out of cut ends of bare-rooted stock. However, this is a comparatively minimal effort, relative to the elongation that will follow in autumn. The spring root growth, where a plant has had most of the root system removed or reduced (purchased bare-rooted or balled-in-burlap, or bare-rooted at planting, in order to discover and correct deformities resulting from careless container production) will not be adequate to completely restore the plant. That is why top growth of bare-rooted stock is dwarfed the first summer after planting.

I grow roses organically and I live in the wet zone in the Puget Sound Area. When I first started buying roses I had a lot of trouble and visited the King and Pierce counties ARS sites as well as the ARS site from Olympia and checked out their links. I also got good suggestions from contacting them (the societies) and also checked out nurseries deemed "reputable" for selling roses that can do well here without a lot of work. Another thing that really helped was checking out books from the library. I was told that a lot of England has the same climate so didn't limit myself to books written for the US. Specifically, a Peter Beales (he is British and has been knighted-or whatever, for his work with roses) book called "Roses: an illustrated encyclopaedia and grower's handbook of species roses, old roses and modern roses, shrub roses and climbers" published by H. Holt, c1992. He has lots of books but this one is my favorite because he doesn't limit to just old roses and he has specific codes like (WW) if a rose hates wet weather . The book is somewhat old but unless I am after new hybrid teas it is helpful. Many of the new English roses do well here. My neighbors grow Heritage and Abraham Darby which are both somewhat cupped roses and they don't need to provide much care to them at all. There are some great OGR climbers some like Veilchenblau (purple) and Mme Alfred Carriere (white) are quite rampant growrers. Veilchenblau is a once blooming summer rose and Mme. is repeat blooming and even likes poor soil and shade. There are roses farms in both the wet side of Oregon and Washington. Many breed their own and others test breeds in their fields and only sell the successful ones. There is a site by an Olympia ARS member that charts roses successes and failures. It is: http://www.oysterbay.net/ourhouse/rosechart.html#chart Many of the people I have met in our local rose society don't seem interested in forums or even the internet and others are just too busy working and maintaining their gardens. I suspect that is why you have few responses. I certainly know of hundreds of people in the PNW who could be classified as rose lovers. You probably already have this but just in case http://www.ars.org/ If you are into old garden roses as I starting to be there is a group within the Seattle/King county society. Hope this helps.