I can't offer much specific advise as I barely ever see a Simplicity in my world, but am I correct that the safety switches worked before the solenoid replacement? Parts Tree shows a real basic schematic and from that it hardly looks like a wire could have gotten switched during the install. Were there extra wires that weren't hooked up before? From your description, it seems seat switch like. Test w/ multimeter and know that in some cases, "fool proof " connectors are used that will short the circuit across if left unplugged. these sometimes fail as well.

Buster- Kind of had a brain flatulence episode here :-) GROUND the kill wire and see if the engine stops. Typically, the M(agneto) terminal on the switch is connected to the G(round) terminal in the OFF position, killing the engine. If the kill wire is disconnected from the engine (sometimes the wire breaks/disconnects) under the engine shroud, the engine won't kill. If grounding the wire does kill the engine, check the G terminal of the switch for continuity to the engine block.

1*Sub-compact tractors are great. 2*but if you start to add up attachments...$$$. 3*Mowers don't come included. *Mowers don't come included. 4*Also, if you have a yard like mine sometimes it's nice to have something a little smaller to get into those tight places. by lakeguy43 *********************** 1*U said it. 2*The tiller for a Cub Cadet garden tractor cost $3500 and the tillers for new Holland and Toro garden tractors are $2000 or so. Contrast this with The $1400 quote I got on a tiller for a Sub Compact. Also implements are more readily available for Sub Compacts and Compacts due that they are interchangeable between brands. This means a larger supply available in both the new and used implement market. Bigger supply = easier to find and fairer priced. Attachments for Garden tractors tend to be brand specific and or even model specific. This means if you sell yer brand A garden tractor and buy a brand B garden tractor you will have to buy all new attachments cause the brand A implements won't fit your new brand B tractor. I have a CC 2500 series with a front blade, rear tiller and a 54'' deck. I'd like to move up to a 3000 series but to do that means I would have to buy another new 54'' deck, front blade and rear tiller for the 3000 series because these implements from my 2554 wont fit the 3000 series. I found out that buying attachments twice is far more expensive than just buying them once for a sub compact or compact. I learned this the hard way during my experience in the school of hard knocks. 3* Mowers don't automatically come included on all garden tractors. Cub Cadet and New Holland to name a couple That's the way it should be for all other Garden tractors too. Why should I have to buy a mower that I don't need or have any use for simply because it's forced on me because it comes with the tractor? 4*My Cub Cadet GT2554 with a 54'' mower deck on it takes care of this nicely so why would I need a Mower if buying another garden tractor? >>

to amplify rusty's reply, yer carb is allowing raw fuel right on thru into the engine's crankcase. DO NOT RUN engine until contaminated oil has been drained, new filter installed and fresh crankcase oil added. The contaminated oil will not properly like your engine causing premature catastrophic failure. M/W, find/correct cause of carb leak and - per Rusty's suggestion - spend a cuppla bucks to put in an inline manual fuel valve - and use use to shut fuel off to the engine every time you shut it down/put it up. Cheap insurance.You can get them at any shop that service lawn tractor engines.