How To Turn/Build a Pile Without Hurting Worms
JaneGael
14 years ago
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annpat
14 years agobpgreen
14 years agoRelated Discussions
tiller to turn pile?
Comments (18)I didn't mean to cause offence. But I think gas and oil consumption is one of those topics, like using peat, that needs to be addressed regularly here. I wonder if the average American, or Canadian for that matter, knows that 16% of American gas comes from Alberta's tar sands, a megaproject that is destroying many hectares of boreal forest and wetlands, drying up rivers - water is made into steam to extract the tar from the sands - generating double the amount of greenhouse gases conventional oil extraction does, diverting natural gas from domestic use... I learned how to build a better compost pile - and yes, a slower pile, but what's the rush? - because of tendonitis and back pain, realized after the fact that it's better for the environment, and now make a habit of it....See MoreDo I need to turn over a CLOSED compost pile?
Comments (16)Hi Philippe, do you think it is necessary/beneficial to sift out the finished compost when turning it? No, it's not required at all, but if the compost has broken down pretty well and it's time to do something about it, the first thing I want to do is to separate out the stuff that needs more composting. The stuff that looks like it's getting close will need to finish, or mature. A benefit of sifting through a screen is that it breaks up any clumps of compost, exposing it to air, and allowing it to finish Would it be worse to turn everything without sifting out? No, just turning will be fine. How long does it take usually before you turn? If I make a compost pile in the spring, using one of the first cuts of lawn clippings mixed with shredded leaves from last fall, that combination will heat up rapidly and cool in a matter of three weeks or less. I'll turn that when it cools to less than 100 degrees F. But if I haphazardly pile stuff together, it can take months before it wants to be turned. I've got a pile now where I just piled stuff up and left it. The winter rains helped it break down, the pile has settled and now it needs turning. I expect that it won't be nearly as long to turn this new pile for the second time. Do you use inner temperature as a guideline? If yes, what's your threshold temperature? As long as it's 130 degrees F. or more, it is quite active. Once it drops below that, it tends to cool quickly. If I can catch it at this time, it will heat up right away, but if I let it go too long, it takes some time to reheat. So, turn it once when it cools off. When it cools again, you might consider sifting. Otherwise, turn it and try to be patient. Don't add anything once a pile heats up the first time, just manage it until it's ready. The rookie mistake I've made is to mix it into the soil before the compost was finished. That delayed plant growth until the compost was able to finish decomposing in the soil. If I had just applied it to the surface over a layer of finished compost, it wouldn't have affected the plants....See MoreOutdoor worm bin = compost pile?
Comments (10)I think you might want to ask on the Soil, Compost and Mulch forum as well as here, since I believe there are plenty of folks around with experince in both vermicomposting and regular compost piles. Here you might get slanted answers, such as "Definitely worms are better, they have CUTE POINTY HEADS!!" :-) I don't have a good sense of how fast a regular compost pile can produce compost versus how fast a big outdoor worm bin can produce vermicompost. Vermicompost is pretty rich and concentrated stuff, but I don't know that it's hugely, dramatically better than regular compost. If I had a good-sized garden in which to use compost, enough space outdoors to create a compost pile, and much more garden waste to process than I do, as well as the ability to possibly collect materials from offsite (leaves, coffee grounds, what-have-you) I would probably want to do vermicomposting for kitchen scraps year-round, and an outdoor compost pile for large volumes of plant matter on a seasonal basis. As it is, I have mainly kitchen scraps with a very small amount of garden waste to handle, a very small outdoor garden with limited need for compost inputs, no space for a compost pile, but room in my basement for a worm bin, so it's pretty clear what method makes sense for me. Your mileage may differ....See MoreFinding worms in manure piles?
Comments (17)Another worm convert! I say, if they're dark in color, small and thin, and travel in clumps, they're composting worms. Stripes are optional. Mine have never looked very stripey, but I do notice the yellow tails on quite a few of them (another characteristic of Eiseinia fetida.) Composting worms don't dig burrows in the ground and are quite happy to live all piled together in a heap of food. If they are pale in color, fatter, not as fast-moving, then they are probably shallow-soil worms. I have a lot of the grey guys in my garden. Probably OK for vermicomposting, but may not thrive in very crowded quarters. In the wild they sometimes share burrows so a little bit of jostling is OK. They do dig in the ground but their burrows are shallow and horizontal. If they are dark in color but much bigger and longer, you've got a true nightcrawler. ("European nightcrawlers" notwithstanding; that species is actually a composting worm and looks more similar to what I described above.) Nightcrawlers won't be happy in a bin at all. But nightcrawlers aren't so easy to catch unless you prowl for them at night with a flashlight. They live in deep, vertical solitary burrows, occupy the same burrow for a long time, come out only to drag in more food, and don't like to share their space. Like me! :-)...See MoreKimmsr
14 years agobillhill
14 years agoannpat
14 years agoDan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
14 years agorhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
14 years agowestover
14 years agoJaneGael
14 years agoluckygal
14 years agorandy_coyote
14 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
14 years agoRichard Brennan
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
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