If we pretended you never used a meter, we wouldn't know you had one, thus the ability to check for current flow. Modern meters are almost "too good" for some applications. You can probably get voltage reads just by touching the leads to the battery surface between the terminals, especially if it's an older battery with a dirty, oily film on it. The ammeter function is used in series instead of parallel like the voltage functions. You'll probably have a different "jack" to plug in the RED lead and a different range on the dial. Instead of V, it should be A. Used the HIGHEST range to start. That's probably either 2A or 10A, depending on the meter. You might want to use a pair of alligator clip leads like the cheap ones from Radio Shack etc. Likely, your draw is from the voltage regulator/charge diode at the engine. You didn't mention ANY model numbers for the machine or engine. If we knew that, we MIGHT be able to find an actual schematic to better look for potential trouble spots. Some schematics are readily available and some aren't.

I believe that mower is made by MTD. Go to their site and check what is avaliable parts-wise. Open up your trans to see what is needed. Here is a link that might be useful: Troybilt by MTD

I can't say that I know the differences between the two. I would assume that the decks are the same or that digging a little deeper that there would be one available. The typical MTD mulch kit on a 2 blade is a basic chute cover and different blades. If you can't locate the info, I would get the specific model from the Cub at Lowes (behind the seat area) and put it on parts look up(just entering it in Google is fine) and compare the decks. If you have challenges, let me know. One thing I can tell you is that Lowes would love to put you into something they have in stock. I've heard from two different customers how much they lowered the price when they bought their riders- and I was simply floored! I do not sell new equipment now, but know the ropes as I did for years. You could very well make that 7 bills up and then some. An update: When I searched Lowes for a potential model # on these, the Cub was no longer listed on the site. Maybe they won't carry them in the future? MAybe an even better bargain to be had. Also, the model of the Troy seems to be 17AFCACS011 From the Home Depot site, their Cub MFG Model # : RZT L42 MFG Part # : 17AFCACS010. They both show the same decks from what I see less the paint code. This post was edited by tomplum on Wed, Nov 27, 13 at 16:39

bagsprc - I think the HH60 is the engine serial number, not the tiller number. But, no matter. Try this: Lift up the flat-tire side of the tiller and set a concrete block under it, so that the flat tire is held off the ground. Take one of those load-securing straps that has a ratchet mechanism to tighten it down, and place the strap around the tire; tighten the hell out of it, so that the bead of the tire is squished out against the wheel. (If you don't have such a strap, try a rope as farmerboybill suggested - however, it's hard to pull the rope tight enough.) Using a compressor or a portable air tank, put air into the tire; the object here is for air pressure to force the tire beads against the wheel tight enough to seal. Sometimes it helps to remove the core from the valve stem, in which case you have to put a simple nozzle on your air hose - if you do it this way, you'll lose some air while you reinsert the core, but the beads should hold. If you are able to seat the beads and the tire holds air, then you're good to go. If you seat the beads but the tire looses air, then try putting Slime into it, rotate the tire a number of times, and air it up again. HOWEVER, if you can't get the beads to seat, you've got 3 options; turn the tiller over on its side and see if you can insert a tube with the wheel still on the tiller, or remove the wheel and install a tube OR load the tiller up and take it to a tire repair shop. At this point, I personally would head for the tire shop. Good luck removing the wheel - it's probably going to be quite a job. Punch the pin out, and the wheel is ready to slip off the axle - but it won't. It's probably rusted in place. Try P-Blaster, tap on the wheel with a hammer, spray it again, let it soak overnight, tap it some more - work it, work it, work it. If you've got a torch, try heat. Good luck. If you do ever get it off, put anti-seize on the axle before you reinstall it. If you get the wheel off, put a tube in the tire.