Do the prep correctly and it should turn out fine. It might be best to remove the sheet metal panels.

The job will turn out nicer if you remove the sheet metal to paint. I repainted my 1450&1650MF, stripped them completely down to the frame. I have a regular paint gun and plenty of air(duel-stage compressor) so went that route. I did use PPG paint with super gloss hardener added right in, on their fourth season, I can wipe them off with a damp towel and they look like I've just waxed them. Preparation is the key to a good paint job. I'll bet that MTD will look a heck of a lot better with new paint.

I guess, there are a couple of other subtle things >>

The color you pick might look nice on the small paint cap, what's it going to look like on a whole tractor?

If you remove the sheet metal, you might want to do the frame and engine in an other color. It makes it look less like you dipped it in the bathtub.

When painting, take your time, don't put too much paint on at once. The sheet metal parts may turn out best, doing the inside and then the outside after the inside has dried. (bombs are not quite as easy to use, as a gun. ... the spray pattern is more concentrated) You can hang the panels by a wire to paint. The other thing, with doing the panels separately, you can concentrate on the "one piece", instead of the whole tractor.

All good advice, thorough prep and patience is the key to a good job. After sanding, wash the parts with a grease and wax remover then rinse thoroughly.

Best to use the "Wax & grease remover" solvent before you begin sanding (and again after sanding). If you will be using "spray bombs", purchase a "pistol grip" can adapter to operate the nozzle on the paint bomb. This will give you a more ergonomic, comfortable hold while painting and it keeps your index finger from aching. They are not expensive, get one at home improv centers, paint stores, or auto parts house that sells spray bomb paints. Any bare metal you create needs to be primed with a "Bare metal primer" before applying the color coat. Rusted areas that you would paint over (without extensive grinding and sanding) should be treated with a "Rust conversion spray" or "metal prep solution", followed by a coat of "Rusty metal primer" before applying any color coat. If you intend to apply a "Clear Topcoat" make ABSOLUTELY sure that the clear topcoat product is compatible with the color coat formula. I presume TremClad is ENAMEL type paint, be sure to use ENAMEL type clear topcoat, hopefully TremClad has a "Clear" in the same line-up. Here is an idea that I have never tried but might be just the right time to check out. I have Adobe Photoshop Elements 3.0 software and there is a feature in it that allows you to implement a color change to an object in a photo so you can see approximately how it would look like in a different color. If you can post a photo of the MTD in this thread, I (or other members with PSE software) could try to do up the present color (colour to you Cannucks :^) ) in the British Racing Green (or a close approximation) and repost the results as a "before & after" comparison. Eh!

Depending on what you're looking for, I'd consider brushing it on. It's a lot easier, cheaper, and quicker, and you can't even tell from a few feet away. Also, if you want it perfectly smooth, you can wet-sand and buff it afterwards for the perfect finish. Rustolam has good stuff, and tractor supply has a good selection of O.E. colors.

My tractor was given to me by a friend. I think it's an old MTD. It was origionally yellow, and my friend started to paint it red but never finished, so when I got it it was yellow, gray primer, and red, with a few spots of rust. I did a quick wet sand, took off the hood, put on masking tape, and brushed on kabota orange. I'm happy with the finish. It isn't a show car, it's a tractor.

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And, the tractor should "flat git it" at a traffic light!
Paint looks good, too! This from an old retired auto painter!

Thanks rusty.

It seemed too loud for me, and a new muffler wasn't any better, so I got a cheap 2" turbo muffler from autozone. After I put it on I decided to splurge on the crome tip. It is a lot quieter now (still not great). Next time I'll look at the tractor mufflers from tractor supply. I do like how it looks, but my wife is embarresed by it. But that's partly why she's agreeded to let me get a new DGS6500!

Sorry guys. I can't agree with brushing it on. I don't see it being faster, maybe not cheaper (unless you are using an old can of paint, which was kick'in around), and I don't see it being any easier.

Spraying with allow the paint to get in to the nooks and crannies, where brushing won't, and the finish will be smoother and I guarantee, you'll be done quicker. The only disadvantage, that I can imagine, is the little bit of overspray on the garage floor. Throw a tarp or some newspaper down and that isn't even to be considered.

The biggest part of any good paint job is the prep. It might take a week to clean it up and 1/2 hour to spray it.

The last time I used a spray can to paint metal was about 30 years ago. The finished paint was thin and brittle. I figured most of the stuff in the can was propellent and dryers, not paint.

No doubt improvements have been made. Rustoleum is good stuff, even on wood.

It takes more prep for spray, and not just to keep it off the floor. With a brush it just takes 1 layer of tape at the border. With spray everything needs to be masked. And it is more expensive unless you just have a little bit to cover and would just throw out the extra, as there isn't very much actual paint in a spray can. A quart of paint costs about $12 iirc, and foam brushes are almost free. Cheaper than the extra masking tape you'd use when spraying, anyway. If you just buy the paint it's the same if you brush it or use a spray gun, but the brush will get more of the paint where you want it, so it's more economical, and there is less prep and cleanup. Sure, spray is the way for a mirror-smooth finish, and if that's what you want go for it. But if you just want it bright and shiny and protected from rust, a cheap foam brush works great. I hear those little rollers work great too for large flat areas and do get it quite smooth.
At tractor supply the paint is called "tractor and implement enamal" and comes in all the cool colors. I even painted my sister-in-law's trowel kobota orange too so she'd quit loosing it in the dirt.

Back to srimes: I "wood" have to say your mulch plug is most unique. I "wooden" be a bit bashful about it if it works.

scrimes , your tractor looks a lot like mine 'cept for the color :D. There are a few minor differences (mine has speed control on left side) but grill , seat , wheels etc. are same.

Some good tips and sounds like it is indeed do able.

Now all I gotta do is settle on a colour...Candy Apple Pink , Racing Orange , British Racing Green..decisions , decisions..:D

Thanks for the input.

It will run better and it's resale will be higher if you paint it green & yellow!

mownie: lol!
It came without the chute, so I put gator blades on it and built the plug from scrap. I've since sprayed it black so it's less obvious. Seems to work fine.

I would suggest using a broom to paint it with. It will go faster if you use a large shop broom.

If it works I wooden worry about it. :^)

Just don't do the flames!
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