This particular issue has been tossed around on this forum many times in the past but with no definitive answer. Right now, I am in the process of doing a total restoration of a garden tractor that will become one of my working tractors. I am seriously considering having the underside of the deck coated by those Rhino guys that do the pick-up truck bed-lining.

The only thing that concerns me is whether the roughness of this coating will impede the ability of the deck design to blow clippings from blade chamber to blade chamber and out the discharge chute on a three-blade deck. And I also wonder if grass will find it easier to stick to the deck with this coating on it, in comparison to a painted surface.

Of course, painted surfaces don't last long anyway. LOL

Maybe what we need is the sort of Teflon coating that is used on frypans.

I thought about the Rhino coating also...but ruled it out for the reasons stated. Teflon is a great idea! Any clue how its done, and will it wear off?

This is only me thinking out loud (electronically). A few years back, a friend asked me if I could paint the inside of his pickup bed with "that stuff I saw on a TV commercial" (Rhino Liner). I got as far as the basic research stage of this proposed project (but he never committed $) and found that the rough texture is attained by using a low pressure, high volume, "Shutz gun" (sic ?) that practically "spits" droplets onto the surface being coated. I have to wonder (after seeing it mentioned here) if the "Rhino Liner" coating can be applied with a higher pressure paint gun, or brush, or mini-roller, to attain a smoother finish. By the way, if you want to do some research into that you could inquire at some of the bigger automotive paint stores/distributors (as I did) in or near your area. I found out that the "Rhino Liner" product (or similar) is not exclusive to that franchise and in fact there are a few different brands available. One brand, (don't recall a name) I was told, could be "color matched" to the OEM vehicle color (or very close). I never got the opportunity to use the product so I don't have any "hands on" experience with it. It probably couldn't hurt to ask around about the brush application. Be sure to emphasize that you WANT a smooth finish or you might get a mis-directed answer (in that the person might think you are asking if brush application will produce the "rough pebble" texture).

Aluminum or stainless steel

I have a toro push mower with an aluminum deck.
Must be at least 25 or 30 years old-no rust yet?

When I did the redo on my 1650MF I painted it and the mower with PPG paint, the last two coats being mostly super gloss hardener. Three seasons and the paint is worn off under the deck at the front side where the grass comes out. There's a powdercoating shop not far from me, I may check into that for the deck on my next redo(1855MF). Don't know if the powder coat would last longer than the paint with hardener. The plus of painting it is that I can do it myself. I'll probably repaint the underside of the 1650's mmm this next winter. Don't think I'd use anything with a rough texture to it, think the grass might build up because of it. That deck on my 1650MF has never been cleaned out in the three years since painting, haven't needed to, 35yrs old and no rust. I do use compressed air to blow off the tractor and mower after every use though.

As I have said before, I use Rustolium on the underside of my JD 48C deck once a year, and have absolutely no rust after 7 years. At the end of each season, I thoroughly wash the underside, lightly sand any areas I cannot clean well, or where I think too much paint has built up, then spray paint it with Rustolium Professional yellow paint. I do not use it again until the next spring, giving it time to dry real hard. After each mowing, I reach under and scrape off the damp grass buildup with a plastic scraper. I do not try to get it perfectly clean. The light coating of hardened grass residue provides protection against wear from any sand being tossed around. I have also done this with my Cub Cadet 122 that is almost 40 years old, and has the original deck. I belive my success is helped by letting the paint harden for several months before using it in the spring. Charles Ranheim

I'll probably get "blown completely out of the water" on this one but here I go. My take on powder coating is that the finished product is actually "less durable" when exosed to "the elements" than some paint coatings. The "mystique and allure" to powder coat has reached almost mythical status.....but not for endurance (nor appearance). The main reason powder coat has reached it's current position in manufacturing and finishing is primarily because of VOC emissions (or relative lack of) and ease of application and clean up. From the VOC stand point, the EPA (and the neighbors) love it because emissions from a powder coat process are not much different than what is given off by a large commercial bakery operation. The manufacturer or finisher loves it because the coloring agent is stored in dry powder form that doesn't settle out or need to be constantly mixed or agitated. The oil/resin "sticky coat" material is about as flammable as cooking oil, so there is less volume of flammable solvents on premises. The electrostatic charging of the items being powder coated practically ensures no waste as overspray and a very uniform layer of color. The benefits of powder coating are largely to the companies involved in getting the finish onto the product. The consumer of such powder coated products really gets no advantages from powder coat (except you might argue it cost less to powder coat than to comply with emission standards if paint is used and therefore the product costs less). It has been told to me that powder coat finishes develope microscopic cracks as the object expands and contracts (thermal). These cracks allow moisture, whether precipitated, splashed, or wicked from the air, to get to the metal base. When this happens (if the metal is ferrous), rust will form and propagate. No doubt, or argument, that powder coating has come of age and is widely accepted. It just isn't the most durable finish to be had, maybe just the most economical for a manufacturer or finisher.

Probably one of the cheapest protections is the application of "used motor oil". The problems being, it's application process, it's necessity to be done after nearly every use, and the mess involved.

It might, best lend itself, to application before storage.

@ Castoff

I've said for years that the company that introduces the Teflon mower deck will be king.

@ Butch

Powder coat will last a LOT longer than paint. Its baked on so its a lot harder and stronger than paint.

@crainheim

I just redid my JD's deck this winter with 2 coats Rustolem primer, 2 JD yellow, and 4 clear coat. Smooth as glass and still grass sticks to it...

I've been sitting here thinking about this.
One thing, which might work (dunno for sure) is to apply clear silicone, as it comes out of a caulking tube and then rub it around to a thin coat with a rag. I know, if you get it on your hands, it's slippery and even on skin, has to be peeled off or worn off. ?? There's also, the spray silicone, which I don't think, would hold up for long.

While this is always an interesting discussion, most of you realize that the underside of a mower deck is a very hostile environment. Hi-lift blades generate suction to make blades of grass stand up so that they can be lopped off at an even height and then that air is used to pass them from one side of the deck to the other where the discharge chute is.

If all the hi-lift blades sucked up was grass, then most of the problem would be solved. But many of you mow in sandy soil, or soil with tiny pebbles or acorns or pinecones etc. Sometimes we venture onto an area with gravel. Maybe that gravel got blown onto the lawn by a snowblower the previous winter. And then there is the usual amount of twigs, small branches that get blown out of the trees on a regular basis.

All of this junk assaults any coating on the underside of the deck. Wet green grass also builds up in the corners and can generate corrosive substances from the nitrogen in the grass as it starts decomposing.

And of course, lb58 3/4's (our resident TROLL) thinks that aluminum decks don't "rust". Well, true enough, I suppose. After all, the term "rust" applies to iron, steel and cast; not to non-ferrous materials like aluminum. However, thick, wet grass will cause an aluminum deck to rot out. Nope, we don't call it rust but aluminum will disintegrate just like steel does.

I sincerely doubt that even a teflon coating would withstand the onslaught of materials that get sucked up and spit out by most mower decks. I think that if there was a reasonable solution to this issue, some manufacturer would have offered it already.

I'd like to defend the aluminum decks. My Jacobsen tractor had an aluminum deck, which had not much sign of deterioration over the course of 27+ years. The only time I cleaned it out was when I was changing a blade or bearing. I did have to have it heliarced in a couple of areas, due to me ramming it into something. Occasionally, it would "self clean", when a big chunk of dried grass and debris would fall off.

We use a commercial bed liner here in automotive restoration, use it
in place of undercoating, much more durable.. The stuff I use is made
by SEM Products in NC an I have their gun to apply it, its a hi-pressure
gun requiring a maintained pressure of 80 psi, mixed and ready to
spray it has the consistency of pudding, it has a pot life of about
15 minutes... Some of this stuff can be rolled on, an I guess it could
be brushed too, but with the short pot life U best be quick about it...
Sprayed on it leaves a distinctly pebbled finish that is extremely hard,
and very glossy when thoroughly dry... It might work well on mower
decks, may try it someday, but I've never had any rust problem on any
of my stamped steel decks anyway, so I'm not sure it'd be worth the
trouble...
I've owned a couple of aluminum decks over the years, an
I've found the problem with them was cracks, I kept in
good welding form heliarcing the things back together all
the time, finally got rid of them...
Paul R...

A rubber deck, could most likely hold up.

I agree it's a hostile environment. Everything flying around under the deck is a "blast medium". However, when sand blasting, the one material which is almost not effected is rubber. I believe, because it is soft enough to absorb the blow without ill effect. Of course, there are many different types of rubber. I have some aircraft engine mount spacers or something, which have a laminated rubber, vulcanized between two metal washers. They are nearly indestructible.

So, I'm thinking a rubber coat on the inside of the deck.

How about a replaceable liner of some kind?

It might well be worth trying a "Rhino liner" or one of the other like products. I'm pretty sure they are a methyl methacrylate (MMA) elastomer that has excellent mechanical properties, including a 300-psi adhesion strength to steel. They're in the same chemioal family as plexiglass/acrylic glass and you know how tough they can be. Problem on the bond strength is they're only as strong as the paint surface you're applying it over, unless of course you clean it down to bare metal. In that case they apply a primer first. We've had it applied to concrete and steel RR bridge decks @ 80 mils thick as a seamless waterproofing membrane and it has to withstand the constant abrasion of sharp ballast material against it. As I've said, it's tough stuff.

Bill

Oh, and I forgot to mention. The smoothness of the finish is usually controlled by spray pressure and the distance of the nozzle to the surface being sprayed. We've had 'em turn out pebble/orange peel rough, and smooth as a baby's butt. Bottom line, it all depends on the guy who's holding the nozzle and what kind of finish you ask for.

I have to think we're "making mountains out mole hills"
here, as near as I can see, this is a real "non-problem"..
I have been using "deck" type mowers for almost 50 yrs
now, an I've yet to have one rust out... I currently have
4 decks, 3 pressed steel, and 1 heavy welded deck on the ZTR,
which I won't count because its almost new anyway.. The
other 3 R all old-timers, 39 yrs, 36 yrs, and 22 yrs.. I
have NEVER done anything to any of these decks but
sharpen the blades and grease the spindles once a year...
I don't ever wash them, scrape them ever, but I don't cut
wet grass an I don't let them sit out in the weather either..
So while I have the facilities to sand or bead blast one
all nice and clean, then spray on the rhino liner, or
anything else, I really don't see any pressing reason to
do it...
Paul R...

"I have to think we're "making mountains out mole hills"
here, as near as I can see, this is a real "non-problem".."

Yah, I used to think that way too. I've never had a problem on my LT's 20-year old pressed steel deck either. Paint on top is still pristine and the safety decals are still there. Plus, I washed it after every mowing. But I live in CO and things are dry here. And after reading some of the members stories, I have to think that in some parts of the country, this is a real problem.

Imron paint by Dupont what used on cement mixers and outboard motors should be best paint to use on mower deck but it wear off to. I am going try cement pait on mind this winter.

I just talked to my cousin, regarding the CC882, which I mentioned in another post. He said the deck is shot, as well as the frame. He said the frame wasn't up to the diesel engine on-board. ?? I have to go look at it.

I brushed on two coats of Slip Plate #1 under my deck when it was brand new and try to put another two coats on every fall. The first season it got blown off in places and I wasn't too impressed, but the following coats seem to bond really well. Sure is a lot cheaper than an expensive paint job too. Bought my gallon at TSC.

I usually pull my deck off and clean,scrape, then spray paint with cheap dollar store black spray paint twice a year, it's good to do it like this because I also sharpen the blades and grease the spindles and inspect for any damage or problems as well. sorta like an oil change or maintenance interval. I have not tried this other trick, but my cub dealer told me to use pam cooking spray on the underside of your deck every two or three mows. you can get it in a small 6 ounce can that will easily fit under the deck while it is still attached to the tractor. he said cub sells a product that does the same thing, but costs a lot more.

I THINK there are sprayon liners designed to be used in dumptrucks that are slippery, so that loads will not stick in the bed when dumping. That kind I think would be good.

Texture of Rhino Liner can be controlled somewhat to make it more cottage cheese like surface or less bumper. I think by varying the pressure of the spraying.

Line-X is one brand that can be color-matched.

My 11 year old Cub Cadet deck started rusting out. I recently found a new deck on ebay. I think the problem with mine was cutting wet grass and not cleaning it out. You can mow wet grass and a month later, what's stuck under the deck will still be wet. Now I only mow in the afternoons when the grass is good and dry. Maybe my new deck will outlast the tractor. I don't think coatings are necessary, Just don't mow wet grass.

High pressure plasma coating of the mower deck is the way to go.

Here is a link that might be useful: Plasma Coating

I don't quite get the rust problem. I live in coastal NC, never cut wet grass, park the JD in the shed, and use a leaf blower to clean the deck after each use. Every time I cut my grass--even though it's finally what I'd call a thick, mature lawn--my deck gets sandblasted. Having grown up in rocky-clay-shale terra firma of Pennsylvania, this sandy soil thing is something new to me. I don't sharpen my blades. With the rate they degrade, my only option is to replace them every season. When you compare the brand new blades to last season's, you'd swear they were a different part, but they're not. The sand carves the square corners into graceful curves, symmetrical on both ends, both blades, and somehow the bevel stays consistent. Of course the portion that's turned up for the "hi-lift" function gets shaved down to mere steel foil, and tears apart at the end. It's brutal.
My deck has no paint on the interior. Nor does it have any rust. Maybe someday I'll find a hole but I doubt I'll ever see a speck of oxidation.

We used this synthetic grease called TW-25 on our Browning .50 cal machine guns in Iraq. It's unaffected by dust, provides a corrosion barrier, and doesn't wash off or evaporate. Lawn mower application?

Also, aluminum oxidizes just like steel, only in the form of white, chalky powder. Anyone ever see a stainless steel deck?

Grass is acidic, we all know this. The problem with a Craftsman deck vs. a real Deere, Honda, Simplicity, etc. is the thickness of the deck, and the quality of the welds, fit, and finish. I don't care what type of mower it is, it gets washed inside and out, up and down after each use. A light coating of WD (water displacement) isn't a bad idea either.
As far as the underside, wash it clean, then scrape, wire brush, and a good rust inhibiting paint for the off season.

Let's see what I have learned....
Don't buy a Craftsman and completely wash the deck after every use.
I think I'll go do some Orville.

Has anyone tried POR-15