I think I may have OVER sulfured my blueberries this Weekend, but I am not even sure I obtained the right Product When I stopped by my AG Supply store on my way to my plantings this weekend and asked for sulfur the provided a 50 LB bag of sulfer as a wettable powder, when I asked how much to use on my bushes most of which are about 3 foot and fairly well bushed, He stated about 4 cups spread around each bush, My plantings are not at my residence, and I had no manner to check here to elsewhere and I applied that amount to each this weekend, that was followed by a pretty heavy rain. It spoke of above on "burn" Is it like a nitrogen burn, and is sulfur a N value, as I know blueberries do not like heavy N , I will not be able to check on them for 2 weeks should I expect damage from 4 cups of this product listed below, I really have concern this morning on reading this and other posts. http://www.georgiagulfsulfur.com/images/ISIEM70.pdf SECTION 1 CHEMICAL IDENTITY Trade Name & Synonyms: Yellow Jacket Flowable Sulphur, EM 70 Chemical Name: Sulfur Family Name: Element - Sulfur Chemical Formula: S8 Appearance: Creamy pale yellow liquid CAS Number: 7704-34-9 Hazardous Ingredient: Sulphur % by Weight: Flowable Sulfur 53%, Fluid Sulfur 70% SECTION 2 PHYSICAL DATA Appearance: Creamy pale yellow liquid Odor: Sulphur odor, or faint odor of rotten eggs Purity: 52%, 70% Formula: S8 (Rhombic or monoclinic) Vapor Pressure: Solid: 0.0001 atm Liquid: 0.0014 atm Solubility In Water: Disperses to form an emulsion Specific Gravity: 1.30, 1.5 Boiling Point: Not available Freezing/Melting Point: Not applicable Bulk Density: 11.4 lbs. / gallon, 12.9 / gallon

My Nikko blooms typically open a light green and then shortly change to deeper bluish hue. Sometimes the tinges of green will stay all season along with the blue, but I personally like that look, it's interesting! Be careful with alum sulfate! I learned a hard lesson this year. I have always used it for my established, mature plants in the ground. No adverse effects. However this year I finally was able to replace several rare or harder to find varieties in my area and put alum sulfate around them per package instructions. I have lost one altogether. Loaded with blooms, it's now fried crispy brown, top to bottom. By all appearances it looked sun scorched and parched. But I knew lack of water was not the case, we've had excessive rains. And not excessive sun as I planted it in nearly all day dappled shade. Then one of the blooms had some petals show color that was the funkiest shade of aqua I've ever seen. That's when I knew the alum sulfate was the culprit (and it only took a little over a week to produce that funky color and burn, when usually it takes several months for soil to be fully amended). The others I flushed well with water, dug up and repotted/replanted with all new fresh soil and flushed again. Looks like they'll be OK, thank goodness! So I learned (and since have read) that young plant roots do have the potential to succumb to burn.

I have an endless summer that I planted last spring. It had blue blooms when I bought it, from grower/nursrey manipulation. Late last summer, the reblooms were have blue, half pink. I wanted them blue again, so I have been giving it a gallon of water with 1.5 tablespoons of Alum.Sulf. every couple weeks. I have been doing this since first growth this spring. The blooms are just starting to develop, but they definately have a pink hue to them again, certainly not blue. What am I doing wrong? My natural soil ph is just above 7. I fertalized with Mir-acid in the spring. I watered with alum sulf every couple weeks. I spread about 50# of peat humus around the base this spring. Maybe I just needed to water with the Alum. Sulfate every week instead of every couple weeks. any suggestions?

Great info in this old post...I'm enjoying the post @User linked to too. This section was interesting to me about weeds/grasses near the plants for the first year or two: "Beware the quick fix. To make a clay soil into a really good soil takes time, and if a bit of effort is put in (but not necessarily a whopping huge effort) then that's great. Your friends are all the vegetable scraps that you can find, and all the leaves from deciduous trees that fall your way; lawn clippings that neighbours don't want; manure from pet rabbits or wild, untamed guinea pigs who have broken from their cages and are terrorising the neighbourhood. And when stuff grows (even weeds and grasses that you don't want), the worms will embrace their roots as you have found. So, weeds in the beginning stages are good." I've been reading about how soil life does well with a variety of roots/nutrients to work with. Makes sense. Also Straw, great info on layering. I've been wondering how to ammend dense clay form the top only (without tilling and digging up all the roses in it)....and trying to figure out if layering lots of organic matter with gravel or some kind of small/medium size gravel spread evenly in the layers, would eventually pull it down and break up the clay. Would probably take decades but I have noticed that the biggest rose I've grown this year, out of about 40, is the Westerland planted in a LOT of organic matter (woodchips, compost) and gravel/limestone leftover from pool construction. It's giant. I think it's happier because it's roots can breath better than my beds in less amended soil that I built just this Spring. It's hard for me to tell exactly, but from the tests I've done on my indoor plants (all tropicals and succulents)....lots of grit, with nutritious organic matter or fertilizer = more airflow at the roots and bigger, but most important, healthier plants. Less chance of rot or disease. I can't imagine this not being the same for roses and other plants in the ground.