hilmav, Bless you. WE have a relatively new lawnmower and were having a hell of a time keeping it going. We had it serviced several months ago and it worked okay for a couple of months...Today it started and stopped... I was frustrated as I had no idea how to clean the carburetor etc as most people recommended (I also didn't have the tools to do it.) I tried the prime while motor running and eventually it began to stay going and running smoothly. I have a postage sized lawn and is newly mown and a solution to what has been an ongoing issue. THANK YOU

thanks for the help. I just hosed it down good w some PB blaster, not real dunking, but I will get a new intake seal anyway for the old beast. Any tricks on installing the new seal? Today I was planning to clean up the carbon w a small brass brush, hoping that would descale the carbon deposits to clean things up. I found two different needle valves on the RepairClinic site I am getting parts from. I could probably try matching it visually, but the two choices are B&S part #231855S and #696136. First one is cheaper. They sell the spring compressor tool for $17 (#19347) I should probably get it or I pay the local guy to put it together for me?? Probably could use the tool again on my 10hp B&S chipper someday?? I will spring the $20 for new air filter and pre filter. Anything else while shopping?? You know how girls like to shop,lol. Thx again, determined to get the old relic going.

Well, you have to look at it like this.....there is no component on the tractor that is going to impose a continuous load of anything near to 25 amp. So the long term/long time continuous load is going to be more in the range of 3 amps or less. However, a direct short to ground is capable of imposing a load that in theory might exceed 50 amps, which will make the 25 amp fuse pop like a camera flash. The high amp load will not exist long enough for the 16 gauge wire to even feel warm, let alone do any harm. But, a continuous load of 20 amps will ultimately heat up the 16 gauge wire until the insulation fails, at which point the 25 amp fuse will fail........but only if the failure point is located between the fuse and the load. If the failure point is located between the fuse and the battery + connection point, be prepared to dial 911, because the 16 gauge wire is about to turn red hot. Personally, if I were going to make any alterations (to err on the side of caution) I would use 12 gauge wire and a 20 amp fuse if no electric PTO clutch is part of the picture (25 amp if electric PTO). But I would also relocate the fuse holder so that there is a very short run of wire from where the circuit begins, say.....not over about 6". That way, the chances of a short ever developing that the fuse can't protect against.....are greatly reduced (I stop "short" of saying ELIMINATED). Realistically speaking, the odds of the 16 gauge wire ever causing an issue are very small. If there was a plethora of fires and failures due to industry using small gauge wires that seem to defy logic, then the industry would have been forced long ago to upsize their wires. Truth is, the 16 gauge wire is adequate for a 3 amp or 5 amp charging system where there are no large consumption components featured on the machine. And if it were me, I would have said "I had a leaky front tire that I put some Slime into." ^:)

You don't give us any details about your lot size, obstacles, hills, etc. However, it can't be a tough site or your MTD wouldn't have lasted so long. Given your history of good maintenance and luck with a cheap unit, I'd guess you are OK to get another one of similar capability. However, there are significant differences in the quality of the models you listed, in my opinion. Search this site for each of the brands listed, and you should get lots of postings and will get a feel. My preference is the Deere, even if it is the lower level product versus their dealer only products. They are still built by Deere themselves, and seem to do very well in their intended use (pretty much what you are intending to do). Most people will tell you to go to the Deere dealer, not to a Lowes or HD, because the machine is exactly the same, at the same price (except for teh chain store 10% coupon), and you get a fresh unit (big no-no to get a floor model that has been a toy for all of teh shoppers kids at HD, or left sitting outdoors all season - both HD adn Lowes units probably). The dealer services it and sets it up properly, and is there for all of your service needs without any question of you being the last one to get service (as an HD or Lowes buyer) if he has his own customers to service at the same time. JD as a brand is about the best out there for long term parts availablilty, which should be a plus for someone looking at a 10 year purchase. Lots of the other cheap machines do not have very good reps for support and parts over time. The Deere dealer also has very good return policy, if you just don't like it.