Hello everyone. I’m a proud owner of a TroyBilt Horse III with PTO. A few weeks ago I tried to remove tire and everything I tried did not work. Someone gave me advice on trying to bang it off using hammer. unfortunately it didn’t wilork and I ended up damaging the transmission housing. I waited a long time to find this machine and I don’t want to part with it. A new housing is over $600.00 at MTD. Does anyone know where I can find a used one? Greatly appreciate any help

Lary, These are forward rotating tine machines, not counter-rotating tines. All of the old Horses were this way. Bill, The number you posted is just a casting number, not the serial number. Look below the T-handle and clean all the gunk off to find a serial number. Parts that you need are readily available from a bunch of sources, including MTD (who took over for Troy Bilt) Jenice, If you have the 6HP Tecumseh engine, you dont have all of the model number. What you posted is the "spec" number. Your model number is most likely HH60. Use that model number, and you shouldnt have any problem finding the carb kit. The recoil starter may be a little bit harder to find.

I am just looking for something that is going to last me a long time with our breaking down or apart on me. Posted by ajaxbro CT ()(((((())))))))))))) That hain't a troy built then. Potential buyers of used tractors often want to do other things with them beyond just cutting grass. If no attachments are available, then you just eliminated a sector of the buyers. Posted by castoff XXXXXXXXXXXXxxxxxxxxx An important factor in why you should never pay as much or more than the cost of a sub compact for a garden tractor. What MTD is doing with the Troy Bilt name should be outlawed. Posted by net_worker And Bolens and HUSKY. Deceptive advertising and marketing at best.

Re tomplum: I went out to the tool shed (with my glasses this time) and cleaned the window off the clock. It actually reads 155.8 hours. I didn't see the decimal point. That can't be right, though, since in the 8 years I've owned the mower I've used it for about 40 weeks a year, and it takes at least 2 hours per week to mow the lawn. (I was trying to maintain a fescue/bermuda winter/summer lawn. I've given up on the fescue and the bermuda will require more frequent mowing.) So the actual number of hours on the machine is at least 640. Probably a little more, but considerably less than 1550. When the mower wouldn't move after I changed the belt I shut it off immediately. It wasn't on for more than 15 seconds. I may have ruined the belt, but I don't understand how it can run smoothly in reverse if that's the case, but then I don't understand a lot of things. The upper belt looked like new, while the lower belt was cracked with sections missing. That's why I thought changing the belt would solve the problem. I bought a new upper drive belt and still have it, and if need be I'll put it on. The idler on the upper belt section turned smoothly and the spring is stout. Re mownie: I don't feel competent enough to tear into a transaxle. I was dreading changing the upper drive belt, since doing some searching about the job it was obvious that is was not a piece of cake. While there is a good deal of satisfaction from doing things myself, there is a limit to what I'll attempt. I've made an appointment with a local repair shop to look at the mower. I'll post a followup when I know more. Thank you both for the responses.