There is often a request to make suggestions for what to do with a blank slate or a blank canvas. We expect nothing from a blank canvas until it is framed, then it becomes a non picture or a potential picture. It is the desire to make something within the frame that is the real question. So as not to be too obscure, I wonder how we can frame a space so as to raise the expectation of ÂgardenÂ? Once we have achieved this focus we can move on to the details. The Âframe I think is "what is the garden for?" what do you want to do there and what do you want it to do for you? It is not enough to expect Âgarden to have a generic meaning that you stamp onto your Âblank canvas or arrives on its own unless you want the three white horses running through foamy water over the sofa look. There is probably nothing wrong with having a garden that has no personal meaning and is there just to fill the space I just think it should be a conscious choice. The implication of a blank slate is, "I can do whatever I want here" which is not strictly true if it is a garden we are talking about because those rules regarding soil, sun and zone will restrict your choices whether you are a princess or a panel beater. So it is a blank space with some preconditions and in need of maintenance, even more maintenance after you have installed your masterpiece. A long time ago when I worked in a restaurant kitchen the chef would stall the menu naming of the soup until after it was done, the name depending on how it turned out. The stock would vary and some bones would go in along with a bit of this and a bit of that, ÂBrown Windsor was a common soup of the day! I suggest naming a garden in advance to avoid such a muddy result. Lifted from my blog

I agree that the tree will be the first decision hurdle. It looks like a silver maple, but pic is not clear enough to tell conclusively. If it is, they are known to die back in chunks and drop lots of trash. Nevertheless, I don't feel quite as bleak about the prognosis as laceyvail because you can raise the canopy (letting light in so other plants will grow below) and you can commit to regular maintenance, if that's the better option for you. The tree doesn't look that large (based on the trunk) so I don't think removal will be as expensive as predicted. Another possibility with low-rent trees like silver maple is to turn it into a pollarded tree, in order to control its size and keep the wood "forever young." Based on the tree remaining in place, I'm suggesting that you move the gate to the left (a relatively minor operation) and upgrade the walk. It could incorporate a seating area. Whatever paving material you use, it should be flexible because of the nearby tree roots. Artificial turf, could be one possibility. Another could be mulch, or tamped, granular material. While not classy, I've seen people use discarded carpet as a "paving" material where they don't want to spend any money. It's better than dirt as a temporary solution. I would be nice to paint the fence so it looked fresh. If possible, adding finials to the posts would upgrade the look. A low groundcover would look a lot better than mulch or dirt. The picture is a generalization, not a prescription. Adjust to suit for likability and workability.

"What kind of trees and plants I can plant in august. Also what is the best way to make a garden with the AZ desert soil? Is it better to make a raised garden put my own soil or dig up and amend soil already there?" First nice and congratulations on your new home. Trees on the west side will cast shade on your home in the summer. Deciduous trees will drop leaf so the winter sun will shine through. The best trees to plant are ones around 4 feet tall. More importantly around 1/2" to 3/4" diameter near the base or above a graft point. Those you can transport in your car. I have had 22 trees in my jeep wrangler unlimited at one point (though they were bareroot). I wouldn't want to drive a long distance that way though. If you buy a tree(s) with leaves on them you will have to transport them inside a vehicle or well covered up. Driving over 40MPH will strip ALL of the leaves off quickly. I have has 15 five gal. containerized trees inside my jeep at one point. So .... LOL. These smaller trees do way better than big ones on transplant recovery and cost. August may be a good time of the year to plant trees or not in your area. Desert trees can be planted and do well in the hot parts of the year. But most other things you want in the ground either as soon as you get a break from the summer heat or as soon as winter ends. In Phoenix (where I reside) that is Oct and Jan. In Duncan adjust accordingly. It is either at the northern edge of the Chihuahuan desert or just north of there. Either way it means you get one rainy season July-August. A little snow in winter, but not much. 3,600 feet elevation will limit some of what you grow but surprisingly not much. You will want to hook up with like minded growers (probably almost everyone) to answer questions as to what can I grow and when do I plant it? When does spring show up? I am guessing you can't grow much in the winter but it is relatively short and will lend itself to cold storage. No point in reinventing the wheel. As to what do you want for your home? Native trees? Fruit and nut trees? Gardens? Farming? Soil should be tested at least once to see if there are deficiencies. From what I can see your soil may be very good indeed. Lots of vegetation. If any deficiencies are detected and you plan on a large swath of land being renovated, you would till in a supplement(s). I am of the opinion you want to do a no till or one time tilling as tilling destroys soil life. Good composting practice makes soil reusable forever with high fertility (if not right away eventually) and highly friable with good moisture holding ability. What is your source of water? wells? Municipal? Do you want to capture rainwater? Do you want to use your graywater? http://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/resourcefile/resource/vacoombs/deciduousfruittreesforupto3,500%27r%20evised042011.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1162.pdf If you want to do apple trees, this guy can ship you them in a box that fits in your mail box. I got 25 from him my first year and laughed wondering if the postman knew he just put 25 trees in my mail box. http://kuffelcreek.com/applenursery.htm You won't be getting fruit tree shipments until January through March however. You can get fruit and nut trees shipped via UPS/FedEx bareroot (ordering starts Sept-Oct) for Jan-March as well. I am guessing but you likely want fruit and nut trees with at least modest chill hours (800) to lessen chances of late frost taking blooms out. I see on average mid-Feb is last freeze date but freezes have occurred historically up to mid-May. Snow early mid-Dec to early March, but light if at all. It is currently 6 degrees cooler than Phoenix and some showers. Rainy season lasts a bit longer from July to mid-Oct, but still Jul-Aug heaviest. http://extension.arizona.edu/people-search-results?name=&office[]=438 See if any Master Gardeners or Coop Extension agents in your area. HomeDepot and Walmart can order for you or online order and free ship to the Safford store to hold for you. Hopefully someone from Safford, Duncan, Cliffton (or Lordburg, NM) reads this and responds with their thoughts though Internet connections are likely problematic in this area. Hughes Satellite/Phone line.

Kerry, Good advice about the liquid refreshment, I might have to turn to port as our warm weather moves to the northern part of the world. Ozvon, I'm not too sure how big pittosporum is but I do like Miniture Broms mounted on display, your tree fern trunks will make great mounts - why not put them in a pot then you can move them around as the season changes and they are a lot lighter than gum. Please post some pics when you are finished. dd50, I think all broms are good but I'll say a good brom is one that you like, I've even got a couple of pineapples growing that I like but don't tell anyone I don't want to get labelled a pineapple snob. Rick