Something is being missed. Your vent is clear, you say; your exhaust air is blowing 155, you say: and your cotton/poly T-shirts take 45 minutes. That's what you've said. Assuming that clear vent is nominal 4", either you've chosen the wrong cycle, you've grossly overloaded the machine, or what you're telling us in error. I continue to suspect error. You said you clear the vent opening outside and "hose" is brand new. What you didn't say is that the vent-path between the "hose" and the outside outlet is verified clear. For proper operation you need free/clear 4" all the way. No hose-kinks, no clumps of stuff in the middle, no frozen flappers. If you've got a clear 4" vent of reasonable length (how long is it?) and a new dryer blowing 155F, and are not over-loading, it's more or less impossible for your dryer loads to take that long. Only other thing I can think of is final spin-cyle from your washing machine. Is your laundry well spun-out or is it going into the dryer still sopping? Surely you can understand my skepticism based on what you've said to date.

Prep room (move furniture, sand trim, dust walls, repair small holes) Good Have more than one roller pan and set of brushes - buy them from yard sales. Cut in on ceiling. Let dry (for an hour? 2-3 hours?). Cut in again. Let dry. Roll ceiling. Let dry. Roll ceiling again. Prime the patched spots on the walls now too. When you cut in on the ceiling, slop over onto the walls an inch or so. Paint no more than a 2x3 foot section with a full roller load - the problem most people have is that they try to spread the paint to thin and need that second coat to fill in the thin spots. Paint trim. Let dry. Paint trim again. Wait overnight.NOPE: Stop after the first coat and evaluate the looks. It might not need 2 coats. By the time you are done with one round of trim in a 10x10 room, the first stuff you painted should be ready for the second coat. Tape trim and tape ceiling (because walls will be a different color). Will the ceiling be dry enough to tape? No need to tape if you practice a bit. If you get a bit of paint on the trim. wipe it off immediately with a damp rag. I use a plastic paint shield in one hand and the brush in the other for cutting in ... it's faster than tape. Cut in walls. Let dry. Cut in walls again. Let dry. Roll walls. Let dry. Roll walls again. NOPE: Cut in walls, making sure to feather out 4-6 inches from the edges, immediately start rolling on the first wall, because the paint will be dry already. Again, a 2x3 foot section and then reload the roller. STOP HERE, let it dry until the walls are no longer cool to your touch (means water is still evaporating ) ... evaluate the looks. NOTE: Half-dried paint goes through a brief semi-transparent phase where your freshly painted wall is blotchy and looks like crap. Don't panic and start overpainting the areas. Just keep going and let it dry a couple of hours. Unless you are making an extreme color change, modern paints can be done in one coat.

I first sprayed the deck with the Thompson's seal about 5 years ago. The first coat looked good and dried OK. I decided to put on a second coat, it was not dry for over a week. I read the directions and it said to put on only one coat! I called Thompson's for advice. They said a seal remover was the only way. They also advised that after the stripping that I not apply anything as the wood was sealed. I got on my knees and did as they said. The second time about 2 years ago, I applied one coat and it worked fine. I just did it a 3rd time this month, June 2018. The outer boards most exposed to sunlight did just fine but to make it uniform for the whole deck, I did the whole deck. The next morning, the deck was very oily, slick and sticky and I had some rain too. Rain did not affect the application or drying at all. I read the instructions again and it mentioned wiping any excess sealer off with a towel. I did that, even a couple times and it was still slightly sticky, but much better. Over the evening I was reading of some methods of removal; ammonia, simple green, mineral spirits, paint thinner, wax & paraffin removers, hair blower or iron (with towels) and wipe and even polar vs. non-polar (water base vs oil base). I don't know if any of them would have worked because the next morning despite rain and hail and 60 degrees, the deck was dry! In short, I would recommend in the future, when applying it is a good idea to wipe the excess off right away with a towel (a rag). Kind of like applying Pledge to your wood furniture. If you are caught unawares the next morning as most of us are, I recommend getting on your knees and wiping it down 3-5 boards at a time trying not to leave any hand or knee prints, maybe 2 or 3 times. It will come off as a gummy or oily residue. This gets off the excess allowing for the deck to dry. Been there, Slow learner.

Dry leaves are already a mulch....and you are using them in that manner by topdressing your beds. Mulch is anything that is applied to the soil surface. It is not intended to be a planting medium or even a soil amendment for that matter, although it often becomes one as it eventually gets incorporated into a planting bed. If you want to actually plant into the voids of the cinder blocks, you need to fill them with soil, not just dried and partially decomposed leaves.