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how to unmount Craftsman tractor 917.255736 engine

16 years ago

The crankcase gasket is leaking and I need to remove the motor. Maybe I missed it, but I couldn't see how to get the pulley off. How does this motor unmount? Thanks a ton. I just want a little info before I dive into this blindly. This is the older Craftsman rider that is sliver and boxy. 11hp briggs. Thanks in advance

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Comments (10)

jimc_vt
16 years ago
You can unbolt the motor and remove the double pulley with the engine on some models ,some you can't....then with the pulley bolt removed you can use a gear puller to "carefully" remove the double pulley,sometimes rust will make this most difficult and the double pulley will be ruined trying to get it off the engine,sometimes they just slide off .... ....it's jsut the nature of the beast.Jim

BTW,If you get the pulley off ,replace the bottom seal also(PTO seal) and becarefull when you seperate the sump from the block ,internal items tend to fall out of place and need to go back where they came from when the sump is reinstalled,if you new at this, BUY a servive manual ....
bill_kapaun
16 years ago
The engine in it is supposed to be a-
Briggs 252707, TYPE NO. 0621-03

Go to the Briggs site in the link below and download an IPL. It'll be of some help.

Have you tried snugging up the sump bolts?

Here is a link that might be useful: Link Below
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xdriver
Original Author
16 years ago
I have not tried snugging up the sump bolts. Will this work? It looks like there are some bolts that can only be reached from under (the back) of the motor that is mounted to the chassis. Am I missing something?
docspanky
16 years ago
Liberally spray up through the bottom of the double pulley with PB blaster, allow it to soak overnitght if possible. The bolt will probably have to be reached with a good long extension. Ditto on replacing the crank seal while you have the pan separate. I didn't use a gasket to reseat mine, I used a high grade RTV sealant. It all would have been perfect had I not overtourqued one of the mounting bolts and broke the bottom pan. There was no good fix, and parts costs made it economically unfeasable to repair or replace the engine. Thus the 1978 Murray has departed in favor of a mid 1990's HUSKEE. Runs like a champ, leaks nowhere.
bill_kapaun
16 years ago
"I have not tried snugging up the sump bolts. Will this work?"
It should IF they happen to be loose!
It could also be the governor shaft seal.
Are you just assuming the gasket mysteriously went bad?
mownie
16 years ago
On this engine, the sump (end cover) gasket is available in 3 thicknesses to allow setting the crankshaft "end play". Standard thickness is .015" Using RTV as a substitute can result in too little end (or none) causing damage to the crankshaft and sump cover if run in this condition. For this reason it is a good idea to measure crankshaft end play with a dial indicator BEFORE removing the sump, or at least measure the thickness of an intact piece of the old sump gasket with a micrometer. In lieu of either of these measurements, purchase the standard thickness gasket. If you take a piece of the old gasket to the shop, somebody there can put a "mike" on it.
xdriver
Original Author
16 years ago
I can see that the oil is leaking from this gasket. And yes that is my assumption. To me it looks like to snug up the sump bolts is not possible, since some are accessible and some are not unless the engine is taken off the chassis.
xdriver
Original Author
16 years ago
Now that I just power washed the engine and the chassis and under the mower, I can see that there is a broken off engine mount hole (used to connect it to the chassis) I can also tell the the engine has been off of the mower because there are different bolts and washers holding it on in the remaining 3 holes. Ebay has a kit with every gasket for this engine for 25 dollars - is it worth it?
rustyj14
16 years ago
Remove the bottom pulley bolt, remove the mounting bolts, let the pulley slide down and off, . When you take out the 4 mounting bolts, you should be able to slide the double stacked pulley off, by sliding the engine back. Disconnect all cables and wires. Get a grip on the engine and lift it out onto a flat surface. You should drain the oil out of it. Then unbolt all bolts and carefully pry the sump off. Clean the mounting surfaces, and install a new gasket, and crankshaft seal. This job is done best with the engine upside down.
When all is ready, and making sure nothing inside has fallen out, or down into the "works", carefully see that the cam journal slides into the hole it belongs in, align the bolt holes, and reassemble it. If, by some chance, you have turned the crankshaft, then make sure the timing marks are at the correct place!
If this seems to much for you, then take the engine to a qualified repair shop!
bill_kapaun
16 years ago
Sure! A $25 kit + S&H makes a LOT more sense than spending $3 for the gasket you might need!

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