Roots and more roots in soil what to do?
turaloora
9 years ago
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ericwi
9 years agotoxcrusadr
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Digging out root flares exposes roots. What to do?
Comments (5)Definitely remove the exposed roots, and, if it's practical to do so, leave the fresh cuts exposed for a little while. If you cover them with dirt, there is a little bit more chance of pathogens entering through those cuts. This is a spectacular time to prune the roots that need to be pruned. Doing it now will minimize the time it takes the tree to seal back over the cuts. I can't tell much from the picture, especially since it is appearing upside down. I tried looking at it by turning my head as much as I could without suspending myself from the ceiling, but that didn't really help. From your written descriptions though, it sounds like you are right on track....See MoreSoil mix for indoor-baggie rose rooting vs. outdoor rooting with rain
Comments (56)PICTURES OF MY ROOTING ON JAN 30, INDOOR ZONE 5A, 2 1/2 months of rooting: Zippered bed-sheet pouches won over pop-bottle: more sunlight. Below is a very wimpy rooting with a LARGE pop-bottle on top: What I learned from my 1st-time rooting indoor, in zone 5a: Cheryl Netter, the originator of "baggie method" lives in a SUNNY zone 5a Colorado, with 247 to 285 days of sunshine versus my Chicagoland with 191 sunny days (mostly partial sun). My mother-in-law lives in Colorado Springs, and at high altitude, the sun is much more intense. Sun is needed to zap mold. STABLE environment is the key to success rooting. When I squirted water on the cuttings, it drop leaves immediately. Cuttings drop leaves with excessive moisture. I should had used my alkaline tap water (pH 9) plus hydrogen peroxide to prevent mold & black canker. I used rain water, which is perfect pH for mold to grow. The addition of my magnesium-rich clay on top helped with photosynthesis in the weak-sun indoor-zone 5a. After I topped with magnesium, leaves became darker green. After 2 1/2 months, baggie via zippered-bed-sheets WON over pop-bottle. Baggie has a larger area of soil for evaporation of moisture. Plus Baggie allows more sun & air to prevent mold. All my rootings under pop-bottle failed. They sprout green leaves, but the minute I take the pop-bottle off, leaves drop. My sister in WARM California had the same experience. One site said to take the pop-bottle off EVERY NIGHT, which makes sense since there's zero light at night, thus encourage mold & black canker. But it's a nuisance to take pop-bottle off everynight. Pouring water down the stem of cuttings is THE BEST WAY TO KILL THEM. Cuttings rot easily if the medium is acidic & wet....See MoreDo plant roots really spend more time trying to do this verses that?
Comments (2)Hey, buddy, I wanted to say Hi! I've been so busy with the Farm work in full swing, and a number of other side jobs, that I haven't had time to call and catch up. My sister also moved, and I haven't had my regular relaxing beer and phone call. Been thinkin' of ya, though! As for the question at hand....plants go through growth phases, below and above. And I think we all agree that the health/vitality of the plant is very important. I hear all the time that people don't want to disturb the plant, but that'll bite them in the ass in the end....when they're forced to do an emergency repot for a failing plant. I had to repot my Moro blood orange this Spring, even though it was covered in blooms and fruit. Yes, it dropped a lot of fruit as a result, but the tree itself is now healthier than ever...and there are still a few decent fruits left. Josh...See MoreHow to amend soil for bare-root own-root roses? Any other advice?
Comments (3)I agree with Sheila - most of us use the opportunity of planting a rose to do some spot enhancing of the organic material in our soil. I agree that top dressing with organic material is the best long-term solution to improving the soil, but as a short term boost for the soil mixing in compost or something else organic has been very effective for me. I contrast beds where I have been planting roses this way for some time, and the soil in the entire bed becomes this lovely textured and rich soil that I can dig in with my fingers, while beds that I only top-dress haven't worked in that organic material very deeply yet even though they've all been planted the same amount of time. Having said that, you don't have to amend with anything if you start out with good loamy soil like you describe, so there's no particular need to do as much as you've done or certainly to add anything more. For me, the second set of additives is a bit more effort than I want to put in but it sounds fine being all organic and slow acting. The one thing you don't want to do in any new planting is add fast acting fertilizers which for me include most granular fertilizers. Biotone and other organic fertilizers break down more slowly and don't run the risk of burning sensitive feeder roots. I simplify your latter list and add just manure, alfalfa hay, and something to lighten the soil that I can buy in large bulk and relatively cheaply (lately it has been cotton burr compost). My preference is to add no more than 1/3 other substance to the existing soil, since you want the rose to get used to the conditions it's going to expect from here on out rather than getting hooked on any particular amendments at the outset. You've obviously been successful with 1/2 supplements so go with what works for you. I always soak bare roots and you'll find a majority of us do the same, and a majority of the vendors specifically recommend soaking the roots. The principle is to make sure the rose is adequately hydrated to handle the transition to the ground. One look at dried out husks of body bag roses indicates how important hydration is for bare root roses. Cynthia...See Moredavid52 Zone 6
9 years agoturaloora
9 years agodottyinduncan
9 years agoturaloora
9 years ago
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