Thanks, Carol. Well, the result of my overnight valve leaking test are in! Not too bad. Bottom line: If I extrapolate the results from last night to a full day, those valves are leaking just under 5 gallons in a 24 hour period. Given my current water/sewer rates, about 4 cents a day. I'm still going to replace all the diaphragms though since they are so old. More to prevent a huge failure vs this weeping issue I have. For anyone who stumbles across this string (thank you, Carol, for starting it!). Here is my information: Toro Flo Pro Valve: Model #284-16-04 Replacement Diaphragm Part Number: 89-9861 Replacement Solenoid Part Number: 89-0114 As of this writing, 8/3/22, both replacement part #s are available on Sprinklerwarehouse.com If I ever replace those valves, I was told by Toro that the Jar Top valve part number 53708 is the current replacement. I checked and it is available on Amazon. If I don't have to replace those valves, I'm not going to. I'm a DIYer and that job, although doable, would be a pain.

Hi, I am in the process of setting up a flood system, and I thought that I would share my project with you. I have set up a wood frame that supports child swimming pools in pairs at three levels. The pools are 5 foot wide. I found mine at Wal-Mart. The first pair of pools are set up at 30 inches above ground level. The pools will hold around 15 pots each, so I will have around 30 plants in each level. I am using two plastic 55 gal. barrels for my reservoir. The nutrients are gravity fed into the first pool set with enough liquid to a depth of around 4 to 5 inches. After soaking the pots, the drain valve opens and the liquid flows down to the second set of pools that are sitting at a height of 20 inches above ground. After soaking the 2nd level, a valve opens and allows the liquid to flow out to the 3rd set of pools that are set 10 inches above ground to soak. After soaking, a valve opens to allow the liquid to flow into a tank mounted at ground level where a float switch activates a sump pump that returns the liquid to the two 55 gal. barrels. I am going to use an inexpensive electronic 6 zone irrigation timer to control the valves. I live in Florida, so I had to set up a 12X24 foot shade using shade cloth found at Lowes. It comes in 6X40 foot rolls. Since we have a lot of rain here, I will also have an auxilliary drain system that will prevent flooding during heavy rains. The only problem I can not cover is hurricanes, and there are several building up now. I have completed about 75% of the construction of the system and if anyone is interested in photos, I will be pleased to send them upon request. I have been using rain gutter down spouts as a reservior and wicks. It has been working pretty well, but because of the wicks, it is cumbersome to move the pots. I used old white socks for the wicks.

The advantage (assuming it works right) of the flowlogic is that it detects what's not a normal flow, as opposed to the sensing type which detect actual water. I suspect the best sort incorporates both, as a sensor type that detects the presence of water will also deal with backing up drains etc, as well as a burst pipe. The sprinkler idea of your friend is impractical, silly and would not be up with code. You may as well just turn off your water main when you go out (not an entirely silly idea but make sure your hot water system can cope with that, a bigger issue than your ice maker which I would think will just not make ice) Most burglar alarm systems can have a low temperature (in case furnace fails) sensor incorporated to prevent freezing of pipes, as well as water sensors in key areas. The flow logic has some advantages I guess but the security system can be set up to call you, a neighbour or a monitoring station if it receives an alert. I am kind of fussy and do a lot of preventative maintenance, and can see the logic of replacing those flexible hoses. You also want to make sure they don't just start a slow leak around the seals rather than bursting - turning off the water to the washing machine and dishwasher can be wise, as those solenoid valves can be prone to failure. Make sure the cutoff valves for toilets, taps etc are the ball-valve types as they are less likely to leak than the other type. Lastly and most importantly, make sure your water pressure is not too high and ideally has a pressure regulating valve installed, which might have been the source of your original woes. A handy person could probably incorporate an off-the-shelf electric shutoff valve with sensors, and still come out cheaper than the flowlogic.

Thanks a lot, appreciate the feedback. just had someone out a few minutes ago who said i should reroute the line to avoid risk of leaks in future (due to existing elbows and multiple connections that would be under new concrete). This is a concrete extension to our existing driveway. he recommended continuing the main pipe coming out of existing driveway straight across under the new area to be poured (currently it makes a few turns, and goes through valve, etc.). Although it's $1500+ to lessen the risk of leaks.