I can only think of one maple that may meet your criteria.
Acer truncatum (In the west this tree is commonly referred to as Shantung Maple. In the east it's known as Purpleblow maple.)

First of all, having a tree that is sturdy enough to climb in is a tall order to fill, there's only a few trees that I can think of that are any good for climbing, period. Two of them are tropicals and wont grow where you are are and the third is live oak which probably wont grow where you are either or at least not real well.

Even if you could grow any of those, it the time it takes to grow thick enough branches to climb on would be measured in decades, not years.

So if you want a maple under 30 feet and I'm assuming you're in the southeast or midatlantic, there are not many to chose from. Trident maple is one you might like. They grow most commonly to about 20-25. Definitely not something you can climb in but for the size and site, its a match.

If you're in Texas, OK or that whole region, you may find the shantung maple. It's a smaller maple. This one is growing in popularity in other parts of the country. Its branch structure is more favorable to climbing but by the time it gets there your kids are going to be graduated from college.

I'm sure people will suggest Japanese maples but as I'm sure you know, not good for the full sun location you described.

ejbrymon,
I hate to have to tell you this, but there is probable no tree that will fill your list. A small tree inherently is not really going to be a climbing tree "for your boys", and by the time a tree gets to be large enough to be "climbed", your boys are almost certainly going too be to old to be interested anymore.

As for suggestions, it would be helpful to know what general region you are located (i.e. eastern Virginia), and why kind of soil you have. Is the soil clay, sand, packed new construction soil? Anything you can give us? But I do want to make one some correction your statements. Redbud is understory tree, but is perfectly happy in full sun if you have reasonable soil. They are planted in landscape islands locally all the time. So they might in fact be suitable for your site.

Arktrees

I'm not sure how a small tree can be both a shade tree and strong enough to climb. The size requirements fulfill the criteria for an ornamental tree. Ornamentals should not be climbed.

Taking the 'shade' and 'climbing' criteria out of it gives one a much wider range to choose from. Until we know more, suggestions cannot be forthcoming.

Dan

Our soil is quite rocky actually. We live within a 1/2 mile from a quarry. We are in the MidAtlantic, Northern VA region. I would really like a shade tree more than something the kids can climb. I wouldn't be opposed to a bigger tree as long as it didn't grow super fast. It is a full sun location and we water our lawn and garden in periods of time without rain so the tree would definitely not go through a true drought if we could help it.
I like a Paperbark Maple.

It will be planted near a fence and close to a sidewalk so it cannot have any invasive roots that may damage things or put out suckers.

Hope that helps you all with more suggestions.

ejbrymom,
How far have you dug down? Reason I ask, is that it is common locally for "fill" dirt to be used, and this is quiet rocky and EXTREMELY compacted (95% proctor), with a thin layer of topsoil on the top. This is done to give a hard solid foundation for home construction, but this has the effect of creating a hardpan 4-6 inches at most below the surface, and this is a VERY tough environment for grass, and especially trees to grow. So when you say it's rocky, it concerns me. That was one of the reasons for asking if it was new construction. So please go out to the spot you plan on planting, and dig at least 12 inches down to make sure you don't have this hardpan, as it will greatly impact what you can plant if it is present.

Arktrees

Paperbark/grisium is a real slow grower and it needs good soil and some shade just like a japanese maple would.

And it would give you neither climbable branches or shade for decades. They're also super expensive.

I'm pretty sure you can find a trident maple pretty easily. They're drought and urban tolerant. Good tree for a memorial

cheryl,
Our paperbark Acer grisium and Acer triflorum are both in FULL sun (probable 95%+ exposure), and has no issues. Both grew much much more than their reputation last year. Otherwise, Acer grisium is not a shade tree as you stated.

I agree the Trident seems to be a good candidate. There are even a couple of selections that are nice if you can find them. Also Chinese Pistache Pistacia chinensis "Keith Davey" would probable work well.

Arktrees

Where I am you can grow everything in full sun too. But in Virginia it will need shade. Especially in shallow soil in a drought prone area.

cheryl,
Look at a US map, Northern Virginia is significantly further north than I. I sit at almost exactly 36 degrees north latitude. Harrisburg is 38.5 degrees north, and that is about as far south as you can be in Virginia and still call it northern Virginia. As for the OP soil, we don't yet know, and if it is shallow, then paperbark isn't the way to go anyway. As for climate, I would be rain is more regular in summer there, than it is here. All this is not to start an argument with you, but simply trying to make sure that everyone understands that paperbark is not nearly as delicate and slow growing as many think they are.

Arktrees

Baghdad is farther north too.

"The annual average precipitation at Fayetteville is 46.02 Inches. Rainfall in is fairly evenly distributed throughout the year. The wettest month of the year is June with an average rainfall of 5.26 Inches." 1

"The annual average precipitation at Winchester is 36.40 Inches. Rainfall in is fairly evenly distributed throughout the year. The wettest month of the year is May with an average rainfall of 3.65 Inches." 2

2

Not to argue or anything.

http://www.idcide.com/weather/va/winchester.htm
http://www.idcide.com/weather/ar/fayetteville.htm

Links got a little messed up there.

cheryl,
Yeah, and look at those average temperatures, combined with a more intense sun due to a lower sun angle. Also note that it is very common for July/August to be nearly rainless, or occur on one or two days for this location. For example I got 5.25" here last July.......... all on one day. Was almost 8 weeks before I got significant rain again, and it had been almost a month before the 5.25". Averages don't tell the whole story.

Also click the link below for a more complete story of the averages. Note the 90 average high for weeks in July/August, and the very low "average" daily precipitation, but when it does rain it's often heavy, raising the "average". Plus that does not preclude that last summer was VERY hot and VERY dry, and my paperbark did fabulously in FULL sun which is what I am basing my POV on. I was dryer than the Fayetteville reporting station last summer.

Check out last July:
http://www.srh.noaa.gov/tsa/f6/f6.php?siteName=Drake_Field_Fayetteville_Arkansas&month=Jul&year=2010

And August:
http://www.srh.noaa.gov/tsa/f6/f6.php?siteName=Drake_Field_Fayetteville_Arkansas&month=Aug&year=2010

Again north Virginia is cooler, lower sun angle, and regular precipitation with OP saying they water when dry. End result more friendly to a paperbark in direct sun that where I'm sitting.

I was not trying to start and argument, however, the reality is what it is.

Arktrees

Here is a link that might be useful: Fayetteville Ar

arktrees,
It is so rocky that no matter how far you dig you are chiseling away at rocks and pulling out rocks large enough to edge your beds with (ones you would purchase from a gardening/landscape center). There is a quarry 1/2 mile away, not exaggerating. We do have success growing trees here though. I have a Bradford Pear, 2 Yoshinos, two oaks (one of which is suffering b/c of a bug and is getting cut down for more gardening space), a kousa dogwood and a Tuscarora Crepe. Many neighbors have trees of all varieties. Stuff grows here, well. Just with the location in the yard where we plan to place the tree I need something that can withstand the heat/sun. We are also hoping to use the shade from it to shade a dry laid flagstone patio we eventually plan to install in front of a shed (we plan to build).

Last winter we had record snowfall and last summer we had record heat. Temperature has been so cold we have had a pipe freeze in winter. We have it all in Northern VA.

I just want a TREE, a real tree. Not a fussy tree, not a flowery tree, no little piddly leaves. A tree with big branches and a big trunk and leaves that you can rake, a tree that will last a long time.

ejbrymom,
Take at look at Autumn Flame Maple Acer rubrum, as it supposedly a smaller red maple, and grows fairly quickly, and can take allot of abuse. Redpointe Red Maple as well. Probable taller, but going to be somewhat slender and more upright. The Chinese Pistache mentioned above would work, same with the Trident Maple Acer buergeranum. Redbuds would work as well. They are planted in landscape islands here surround by asphalt and concrete. Look around the landscape islands in parking lots in you area as well. What's getting planted there should work well for you as well.

One last thing. In case you did not know, the Bradford Pear will be a short lived tree that probable won't make it for more than 10-15 years before splitting down the middle. If you know this, then my apology, but I wanted to be sure you were aware as it may change your plants for that area.

Arktrees

Carpinus caroliniana
Parrotia persica
Ostrya virginiana

Arktrees - thank you. The bradford pear was put in when the house was built in 1999. I am not attached to it. If it splits. I will add a serviceberry in its place :)

"I just want a TREE, a real tree. Not a fussy tree, not a flowery tree, no little piddly leaves. A tree with big branches and a big trunk and leaves that you can rake, a tree that will last a long time. "

So with all the original criteria out the window, why not plant a london planetree or sycamore? Big trunk? Check. Big leaves you can rake? Check. A tree that will last a long time? Check. Not fussy? Check. Real? Check.

Might even be able to climb one if there's some low branching.

Arktrees,

you must have gotten a superior Paperbark maple seedling because mine isn't anything like yours. I am not too impressed. It seemed to burn up in full sun rather easily.

ejbrymom,

I have Shantung maples and it gets very windy out here which encouraged them to grow thick branches rather early. 2-3 inches thick within 2-3 years. They seem to have very strong wood because I couldn't break 2 inches thick branches in half.

For non windy condition, trunk and branches tend to stay thinner from what I've observed elsewhere.

Not sure if it is widely available in your area but are available online. If you want a red fall color - http://www.soonerplantfarm.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/plants.plantDetail/plant_ID/2002/index.htm otherwise it is mostly bright yellow fall color which isn't too bad either.

Lou,
don't know what to tell you except that while hot, 100+ is not common. 95+ nothing unusual, and near 100 for a period of time in most years, and we may be a bit more humid (relative humidity) in mid-summer than you are. I did water ours weekly, located in a lawn, but will virtually no shielding from the sun. Any shading comes from our house in the early morning hours just after sunrise. Also note our Acer triflorum (often considered to have very similar requirements and growth rates to paperbark) experienced the same conditions, and did just was well, and they are closely related. Obviously there is something that is different.

Arktrees

Obviously.

Oh well. It's not like I paid for it. It was free. It's only maybe almost 2 feet tall but it barely did anything for 2 years. I wonder if that's why it was given away? Shantung maples nearby really thrived. Probably just a weak seedling?