I am kc8prz (ham call), Mikey. I have been around a long time and I am currently retired thru disability. So hello everyone. Thought I would give my two cents worth on the new Hitachi trimmer, as also found, part for part identical to it's brethern Tanaka. This would be the Hitachi (Deluxe) CG22EASSLP straight shaft grass trimmer with an extra long 60 in. solid steel drive shaft and an anti-vibration system we are to talk about. This is about my 20th trimmer to date with a handful of them being gas. To start with, and get it out of the way, the trimmer is done in a stinky ass, sick looking, slightly grayish tinted, green with gray, black and orange accents on various parts. John Deere looks good in green and Weedeater does green real well too. But this is a very sad shade of green. This shade of green would need lots of vitamines and a psycodilic acid trip to improve it's image. Enough! Now the good stuff.. I tried to find as many of the starting lineup trimmers that the various companies offered and did extensive research on each. Some of the outstanding things about this Hitachi are it's industry leading 7 year warranty for consumers. Also a solid steel drive shaft with a lifetime warranty, as with a lifetime warranty on it's solid state ignition system, according to the service reps I talked to in this area. Shoot me if I misquote something that was told to me. It comes with a special "EASY pull assist" to crank it over and at no added cost to get it that way as was not the case with the Echo trimmer @ $50 dollars extra. Also, I think, it has a Walbro carb on an industrial rated motor. I weighted mine at a hair under 10 lbs. with fuel (outstanding). My stature is small so weight, size, and balance were very important to me having 12 bad disc's in my spine. I found the trimmer to be lite in operation and well balanced. The 21.1cc rating is a fooler as the unit has gobs of power. I bought the Tanaka manual feed head and tried some Hitachi .095, some Oregon with the arimid fiber in it at .118, and some Oregon Max at .130, all being round. All performed very well and lasted a long time. My propritary 2 cycle fuel mix is a one third Lucas, two thirds Sthil Ultra (was what I had left laying around) at 32 to 1 ratio. Plus some Lucas ethenol helper and the standard StaBil. The Hitachi liked it a lot. Unintentionally thrown together but it seams to work real well with no smoke.. This unit is a high reving HOT little monster so I made sure it had a little heaver oil ratio w/silicone and 93 gas grade octane. Dealing with Cincinnati "Summer blend" gas here, UGH!. The Hitachi whipped and hacked it's way through everything without a sweat. Modifications?? Well I did order a mid shaft Echo handle (new) for $12 online. The Echo handle is covered with a cushier grip surface than the hard plastic the Hitachi has. I did find the unit running very well balanced but hardly perfect though better than most. A bit better than average noise level. Lots of torque reminding me of the days of the old 1968 Plymouth Hemi Roadrunner. Above average gas mileage and ultra easy effort to start only needing one pull. For me and my ergonomic fitup puts the off/on switch in a bad location. I bumpted it to "off" a couple of times.. Uh, pardon me if I made it sound like the trimmer is just for little frail people because it's not, it's for everybody. A large commercial Lawn Care service could do a lot worse with many other "so called" commercial/profesional products then owning a bunch of these Hitachi (Deluxe) CG22EASSLP's.. To note, I also own a Gravly Zero Turn mower Im nuts about. A very durable, well thought out and built mower. So in conclusion, The Hitachi is easy to drive with lots of power. The unit is well designed, heavy duty, lite weight, ugly, and overall well built. I am very very impressed. I bought this online for $189 at Home Depravation,.....ah (Depot). This thread is getting long in the tooth otherwise I would tell you what I diden't like about all the others. Let me know if you want that. Also, one more thing I want your comments and opinion on. I bought this from Amazon today. $38.78 Only 16 left in stoc Arnold Extreme WLX-3105 Professional Grade String Trimmer Line .105-Inch x 660-Feet .. order soon. FREE Shipping too. Delivers the durability and performance the professional landscaper demands Cuts nine times more area than residential lines Tough enough for edging and cutting through think vegetation One reviewer wrote the following: I've only used this line a few times so far but it's incredible compared to the line that came with my string trimmer (Husqvarna titanium). I rarely have to bump the head for more string even when going through very heavy grass and thick weeds. I was even able to take care of small wild rose bushes (Word of warning. This string is incredibly hard and durable. This can be dangerous around trees with soft bark or otherwise, fence posts, etc. Don't go anywhere near vinyl siding. If you can keep a trimmer head loaded with the softer stuff for delicate areas. If not just be extremely careful. Updated: I had the opportunity to try some edging with this string on a Husqvarna 327ldx. It worked amazingly well. My word of warning should be extended to include brick! I have a brick lined garden and found this string will actually chip brick. I don't mean it will abrade it, it chips it. I tilted the string to the soil and just edged the garden to the ground making sure not to hit the brick after the first instance. Edging the sidewalk was super quick and long overdue. Awesome string. Whatdoyathink about deal and line type and quality?.....Thanks to all, Mike.

***"BLACK would indicate oil fouling"*** Not necessarily the exclusive deciding factor. The black color only indicates carbon. The source of the carbon will be revealed by other facets of the carbon deposits. Carbon deposits due to lube oil will have a glossy look and will be quite gummy/sticky when scratched. Also the built up deposits can be quite thick and uniformly cover everything about the spark plug completely. Carbon deposits due to a very rich fuel mixture are sooty and powdery looking, and when scratched, will readily shed dryish flakes or specks. Often, where a rich mix is causing carbon, you might see places on the spark plug where the carbon has already flaked off or areas where the carbon seems not to be as thick. A poor boy's method for testing/guessing at compression issues can be done using compressed air. If using this technique, you will need both valve covers removed. You will need an adapter fitting that threads into the spark plug hole and accepts to being fitted to a shop air hose. The engine must be rolled to the correct position (piston 1/4" down and beyond TDC point of the COMPRESSION stroke) for the cylinder being checked. The engine absolutely MUST BE HELD FROM TURNING by some means to prevent the piston from reacting to the compressed air. You would have to figure out how to hold it with what you have on hand. An alternative method that does not require engine to be "locked" is described at the end of this description, so read carefully not to get the 2 confused. Air pressure needs to be 90 PSI to 120 PSI for best results. The air hose and all fittings need to be free of leaks as you will be "listening for leakage" in the test (and any air leaks in the plumbing can dull your testing accuracy). Each cylinder must be tested individually and the piston for each cylinder must be in the correct point, which means you will have to go through the locking and unlocking of the holding device for each cylinder. Once the engine is rigged against turning, apply compressed air to the cylinder you are testing. Now, you must listen carefully for air leakage. I use a 3 foot length of 3/8" plastic tubing to pin point the leaking spot/area by using it like an impromptu stethoscope. Hold one end of the tubing near to one of your ears (but don't stick it in your ear) and probe the following places on the engine with the other end of the tube: Get inside the valve push rod area of the cylinder head where the head meets the block. If the head gasket is leaking, that is where the leak will be. If you hear air leaking, and it gets louder as you probe nearer to the head/block juncture, and begins to become quieter when the probe goes deeper into the gallery (has moved past the head/block juncture), you have located the leak. But.....if the noise level continues to increase the deeper into the gallery the probe goes.............the leak may be coming from the opposite cylinder head or rings. So you have to test BOTH cylinders the same way, but one at a time. If you find that escaping air noise heard through the plastic tube increases on BOTH cylinders the deeper into the galleries the probe is inserted, and you do not hear an obviously louder sound when the probe tube end is positioned right next to either head/block juncture seam.......... the air is escaping past piston rings. This test method will also identify valve leakage by placing the probe tube into the exhaust/muffler or the intake/carb locations. There is also an alternative to rigging a holding fixture to keep the engine from moving under the influence of the compressed air. The alternative way is to REMOVE the push rods from the rocker arms of the cylinder you are testing and simply place the piston at BOTTOM DEAD CENTER (BDC). With the push rods removed, the terms compression, power, exhaust, and intake stroke become meaningless, as both valves are closed. The push rods must be marked so as to get them back exactly where they came from. It only requires finger tip pressure to push the valve spring down to remove the push rods. My thoughts on the Vanguards having "head gasket issues" are that the "true Vanguards" (and the 303700 is a true Vanguard) do not have any ill repute for head gasket failure. On the other hand, the Briggs single cylinder OHV 280000 and 310000 engines DO HAVE somewhat a reputation for head gasket blow out. Same goes for the Briggs V twin OHV engines that are just based on having one more cylinder of the same design as the 28 and 31 OHV Intek family (405700 and 445700). This post was edited by mownie on Tue, Feb 4, 14 at 12:02

If you mean which is the high speed screw, it is the one farthest away from the engine, the lowest is the closer one.

Here is my cheap fix for the gas shutoff on my fs65 (with the c1q carb)- -Take the shutoff shaft and file\grind it down so it is a straight shaft. -Find a nut that will screw on to the shaft digging into the plastic but not dig in too much or else the shaft will break. Grab a nail to use as a handle and get a drill bit of the size of the nail. -Line up the nut so the handle lines up updown for ON and leftright for Off etc. Take the nut and drill a hole through for the shutoff handle. Dont drill the nut while it is on the shaft or else it will melt the shaft. -Tighten the two screws left and right of the shaft to stop the shaft from turning and tap or just screw on the nut. Make sure to get enough thread so it has a good grip. Screw on the nut and drill the hole through the plastic using the holes u drilled through the nut. Make sure not to drill out all the plastic. -apply epoxy (you can rescrew on the nut with the epoxy if u want) to hold the handle in place and prevent the nut from falling off. -Let it dry overnight . The plastic shaft is tapered - there is no rubber gasket so the screws left and right of the shaft need to adjust accordingly not too loose or it leaks. Adjust accordingly and Viola! u r done.