I thought a picture might help. See attached. The bright white fitting on the other side of the filter is a 20GPM pressure reducer. I guess my question is better stated as, can either the control valve or the pressure reducer malfunction in a way that would lead to very little pressure/flow in the drip system. If this isn't the problem and a major leak is more likely, I dont want to mess with this setup. I confirmed that turning the valve off doesn't result in the flow stopping. If I have to replace this, is it safe to assume there is live pressure on the other end of the control valve and I will need to turn off the water to the house to switch it out.

The auto fill valve should be isolated and cut off from the system after the system has been filled to the correct pressure level to maintain a âÂÂclosed systemâÂÂ. Likewise the expansion tank should be inflated to its correct value before being connected to the system. Is this 40psi reading with the boiler stone cold or hot, with the circulator running or not? Has the circulator been recently replaced or operation modified? I think you have to isolate the auto fill valve from the system anyway to determine on which side of that auto fill valve the high pressure is coming from. It seems like you may have full water line pressure from the city in your system. How many floors is the building (how many feet high)? When you say, âÂÂfrozen boiler pressure relief valveâÂÂ, do you mean frozen or seized? Does the system have some sort of auto air elimination vent? SR

Static pressure is the difference between the negative pressure (from your returns) and positive pressure ( at your supplies). This is an indication of the air-flow over the coils. These will differ as your air filter plugs up, the "tightness" of your air filter, the duct sizing. On a retrofit I'd suggest it's OK, but there should be, on your rating plate, a spec for EST. If it's within range, you're laughing. If it isn't I'd 1st consider more return air as that's the most common fault, but I'd also look at the supplies. Are they restricted (i.e. under furniture or behind?). Are the vent dampers wide open? If you've got the gauges, try removing the filter first. If that brings it into line, you can switch the fan into the next highest speed, replace the filter and rock on.

oofreakoo. It may help a little to have a larger filter, but you should be addressing the pump. The plumbing downstream of the pump will determine the pressure. This includes the filter, heater, and return line sizes going back to the pool. Example: A pool only with a 3/4 HP pump and a 36 square foot DE filter and 2" plumbing generally gives me a filter pressure of about 6-8 psi max. Add a heater or increase the hp and you might have starting pressures up to 18-20 psi. More info would be helpful. Good luck.