I just used pvc pipe and the cap for my cup and saucer. I like having the saucer glued to the cap so I can pull it off the pipe to clean it out--water in it seems to get yucky pretty fast. I used the GE Silicone II also. Not sure about the pvc cap to the BB--suppose the GE II would work there too. Luvs

Marlenes method with the coat hanger hook is very practical and simple. I may try it myself. I glued a flat washer the same size as the end of my pipe elbow in the middle of the back plate using plumbers goop. Then I glued the metal elbow to that with plumbers goop. (or you could do the washer to pipe first as shown in pic) That wasn't strong enough still so I put a big glob of ge s ii (which I had in a caulking gun as opposed to the little tubes which I used when glueing the glass plates together) down inside so that it helps adhere the insides of the pipe fitting to the washer. I kept little a bowl of very soapy water next to me and pushed to glob down witha soapy finger so that it was really in there. Since the washer had a hole in it, this glob is actually attached to the plate as well. This has now held for weeks through freezing weather and rain. Someone here has used pvc pipe. Maybe they will chime in or you could do a search. By the way I used electrical conduit for a post. (Its all pipe to me, lol. I mention it cuz I couldn't find it until I accidentally wandered into the electrics section of hd.) I really want to figure out how to post our various ways of making plate flowers in one place somewhere since this keeps coming up, but I've been sick plus my mom has needed me so I've just not done much : (. I will though! Maybe this weekend. kathy

I went to make the repair and realized I have 1.5" pipe, not 2" (stupid). I was originally surprised at the amount of water accumulation, but I'm not well versed on how much condensate to expect. I have a cup underneath the drip right now, and collected maybe a few ounces in a 24 hour period. I can tell you this: After coming down from the roof, the line goes horizontal and from visual inspection appears to be pitched in the right direction. After maybe 8' of horizontal run there is a short 90 elbow, also horizontal. Then there is a short, say 1" section of pipe connected to this 90. This 1" section is mated up with a pvc coupling ring. This coupling is mated with about another 4" section of pipe until it meets a 90 oriented vertically. The drip is between the coupling and the 4" section of pipe. It appears they glued the wrong length pipe and then used a coupling to fix the problem. There must be a small gap between the coupling and the 4" section of pipe where the water finds a low spot. My plan was to cut the long 8' run of pipe just upstream of the horizontal 90, and also cut the 4" section of pipe after the leak. Then put new couplings on the existing pipe and connect a new horizontal 90 with new 1.5" pipe. I've done a number of pvc glue jobs and one thing that always bothered me: When I dry fit the pieces to check spacing, I can only twist the various parts together so much. When I apply glue the pieces then slide together tighter due to the lubrication, and then my spacing is off a little. I'm reluctant to push the pieces together less than the full amount when lubricated for fear of getting a leak. Do you oversize your piping sections a little to account for this, or just leave a little slack with plenty of glue? I haven't had any pvc leak on me yet, but always struggled with this. I thought maybe to glue everything together except the last coupling, and then dry fit that last connection and cut down the pipe as needed to make the final fit.

Hi, Before I would cut the system loose I would dry the joints and put the glue on over the joints. As noted above it is not glue but a chemical process the fuses the pipe together, it will probably fuse the leak shut It worked for me and beside what do you have to loose by trying? Good Luck Woodbutcher