Orbit makes hose end timers and they offer a 6 year warranty. Not sure if you have tried that brand or not. Here is a link, they are the ones that have a part number that begin with a 6. Here is a link that might be useful: Orbit Timers

Thanks for the reply, but I found out what the problem is, malfunctioning valves. I was turning the bleed screw but it was still not closing the valve. When I called Orbit, they told me to unscrew the bleed screw and tighten the black the small black cap that holds the bleed screw (they informed me that sometimes these screws are not fully tightened when they leave the warehouse, but apparently there must quite a few like this as four the six valves were like this). When I checked the screw it was tight as can be. I went to the store and bought a new box and these valves work. They offerred to send me a replacement diaphragm but it would take 5 days to recieve it. I declined.

@Mike That rainbird clock requires 110 a.c. A quick check on their battery units shows them to be less flexible than DIG units. @Twolips It has several problems: Simple does not equal quick. 1. It assumes that once you set it, you want to do the same thing every day. Or every other day. Which means I have to remember to go and turn it OFF after it runs. 2. To set the start time, you have to press and hold the + or - button until the time shows. The run time moves 1 minute per press. So, for example: I want to run one sprinkler for 2 hours starting at 1:00 p.m today. So I have to change the start time to 1:00 p.m. Now I have to change the run time to 2 hours. Later on, with my overhead system, I want to run it for 4 hours starting at midnight. So now I have to chagne the start time by 11 hours, and change the run time by two hours. This is my life: I am running 2-3 sprinklers 16-24 hours per day during the warmer times of the year. If it was the same every day, it would be easy to automate, but every day is different. The willows take more water than the spruce. -- longer run time. The maples are in a narrow strip, so I focus the sprinkler (gotta love the aquazoom for this feature) and water for a shorter period. It rained a quarter inch last night. Reduce all the water times today by 30%. Wind is up. Can't use sprinklers today. So I'll run the drip irrigation and flood irrigation. Cool today. Use shorter cycles. Hot today. Sprinklers in the morning and evening, drip during the heat to avoid evaporation. Getting behind. Run the overhead antelco's on the deciduous strip (1/20 inch per hour) all night. Tomorrow I'll spot water the larger ones. Right now I use mechanical timers because they work. Set the sprinkler, walk away. It turns off. But that means I have to come back to the trees every two hours to set the next zone up. It takes 50 sprinkler moves/ drip zone connects to water everything. Usually I'm running 2 or 3 at a time, so that means on the average 20-25 trips to the pot yard to play with hoses. This means if I'm potting up, I have to stop what I'm doing, go over to the pot yard. fiddle with sprinklers, walk back to the potting table, and resume work. It means that if I sit down to supper at quarter to six, I have to leave at 5 to 6 to go set spriniklers. And again at 8. And again at 10. When it's warm and I can't keep up, I set an alarm for midnight, and set again, then get up at 5:30. *** A controller that could remember a bunch of programs might work. I could likely reduce most of my stuff to two, perhaps 3 start times per hose bib, and 3 run times per bib. That would give me 9 programs. It would also need a feature, 'run this program ONCE then stop.' The easy answer is to drill another well, put a larger breaker on the transformer. At 30 gpm, I could run 8-12 sprinklers at once. That answer is easy, but it's not cheap. 30 gpm means a 2 horse pump which means upgrading the breaker at the pole from 35 amps to 70 amps, which costs $40 per month. Or I could put a tank large enough to handle all the water my well can produce in a day (At 5 gpm, that's around 8000 gpd) then use a gasoline powered pump to actually irrigate. 10,000 gallon tanks aren't cheap either. Or I could pump into a dugout (cheaper than tanks) but then I'd need to have some pretty elaborate filtering to keep the drippers happy.

A water hammer is especially likely when there's a long column of water behind a dead end valve, so the long run to a yard faucet probably qualifies because there is all that water trying to come to a sudden stop. I suspect your problem is that you're essentially slamming four faucets closed at once, which is almost certain to hammer. Consider getting away from all four valve closing together and use multiple single timers set to different times, which would result in a much smaller flow coming to a sudden stop. I would definitely try letting it shut down with only one hose and see if it hammers. I suspect it will not.