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hortster

The Flying Saucer - a VERY long one...

hortster
12 years ago

Lately I've been digging out pictures of an experimental planting technique that was suggested to me by a prominent arborist/horticulturist in the area.

The idea is this: why dig a hole that is as deep as and 2-1/2 to 3 times the diameter of the ball when the roots are most likely going to extend near the surface? The softened soil beneath in that large hole surrounding the ball adds to instability since it has been loosened.

So, the idea of the flying saucer planting hole was born. I said, "gotta try it, makes sense."

I was to give a lecture at "tree day" at the local Extension Service, ergo, the photos. Lost a lacebark elm to an ice storm earlier, wanted a replacement...so, here we go...

First, site selection:

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Mark out a 6' diameter hole:

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Strip the sod:

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Outside edge of sod removal allows for future "banking" of mulch:

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Get the ball close to the hole for easy handling later:

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Check the depth of the root flare GENTLY with a screwdriver:

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Make sure that the root flare will be an inch or two above soil level after planting:

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Why they call it the flying saucer!:

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Remove the wire from the BOTTOM of the ball:

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Done:

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Gently into the hole:

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Remove top wire and nylon string:

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Then as much burlap as possible (notice where the main rooting is going to grow - through the loosened top of the soil:

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Backfill, water in slowly and thouroughly:

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Finished backfill:

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The low figure 8 staking to prevent rubbing on the tree while stabilizing it. Yeah, I know in a previous post that I said I prefer thick nylon rope through the hose, which I do now! Only had some wire back then...:

{{gwi:336457}}

After mulching, run your finger around the base to keep the mulch off of the bark:

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The finished planting:

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And finally, 7 years later:

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Thanks for your patience!!!

hortster

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