Hello, Has anyone gained any insight on this topic over the past year? I'm trying to figure out how to set things up for the season and would like to move many of the containers off of the deck and out to the edge of the yard. The containers are multiplying so rapidly that space on the deck is becoming limited. Last year the routine was to add the fertilizer concentrate to the watering can, fill it inside with tepid water, carry it out to the deck and water, then repeat as needed until all the plants are happy. The new location will be on the other side of the yard, which is too far to keep running back to the house to fill the 2 gal. watering can. I'm considering getting an EZ-Flo fertilizer injector which feeds into the hose bib. Then 150 ft. of hose (I still have to measure that to make sure) and a watering wand should do the trick (can anyone recommend a good watering wand?). The plants are primarily conifers, maples, and chile peppers, and my concern is the water temp. As others have noted , water from the hose bib is cold even in the summer - will this have implications on the plants' vitality? I'm especially concerned for the peppers. Plan B is to get a reservoir (probably a garbage can, but it could be a rain barrel), install a hose bib near the bottom, and place this in a shaded location near the plants. I envision sitting the reservoir on a table for ease of accessibility. I might have to fill a watering can, I don't know if it would generate the pressure to use a watering wand. Fill the reservoir with water and in a day or so I'll have a source of water at ambient temperature. Ideally, one could add fertilizer concentrate to the can, but in practice though, the can doesn't have a tight lid, and evaporation will result in concentration of the contents. On the other hand, there's an adapter you can get for the fertilizer injector to allow it to function in low flow applications (think drip), and that might be applicable. Plan B requires somewhat more work, but does not have the cold water liability. Also, what with the reservoir up on a table, I wonder what will happen when that big storm rolls through. I'll make a decision soon so I that can buy what I need. I'd be really interested in any additional info on use of cold water in the summer. Also, I'd love any feedback on Plan A or Plan B, or any other alternatives. Alex

Before I discovered that our well water was high in pH and alkalinity I never really thought about using a fertilizer that might reduce pH and alkalinity in water and soil, but from what JaG posted looks like Miracid wouldn't help anyway. I am bumping this post off page 2 because I just saw this reply and wanted to comment. The MG type ferts typically deriving most of their nitrogen from urea *will* result in acids being formed in the mix itself. The formation of these acids can be very helpful in offsetting the pH raising effect of irrigation water with high alkalinity. The distinction I want to make is that if one wishes to exercise greater control over the irrigation water itself, these ferts won't do that. The acids are the result of bacterial conversion from one N form to another. The actual fertilizer powder doesn't have the acids required to lower pH or alkalinity all by itself. In other words, if you want to reduce pH/alkalinity of the water itself, add an acid to it. Vinegar is a safe, inexpensive, esy to find source of an acid (lemon juice would be fine too). Using a fertilizer that forms acids goes the extra mile in that it will form acids inside the container that can then 'go to war' with with the various carbonates and bicarbonates that would otherwise raise pH introduced by the irrigation water. As a side point, it's not necessary to accept a 30-10-10 formula (or whatever formula is currently being labeled as 'for acid loving plants'). Any of the water solubles that get most of their N from urea or ammonium sulfate will result in the acid formation occurring.

A couple questions: Can you separate your irrigation zones? For example, using softened water near the pool but well water in other locations? What do you mean by 'drip sytem'? Is that a polyphosphate feed? A phosphate feed system can work if appropriately set up. I might have recommended using and iron filter for the irrigation and the softener for service water needs. If you do that, then your softener can be altered to a more efficient model rather than the 2060. Say a 2040. Iron filters at 2ppm can come in may varieties. Air injection (chemical-free) is a relaible and cost effective means to remove iron for specific puposes such as irrigation. One downside of phosphate feeders, especially environmentally, is that they do not break down naturally and remain in the environment indefinitely. Think of it as a liquid plastic. At 2 parts iron any of thos softeners wuill do the trick. But when you apply them to an irrigation system, it reaaly consumes a lot of salt. Another iron removal system can be a chemical feed using hydrogen peroxide (H202) or bleach (NaClO). Pumps, backwashing filters and retention tank are needed. I don't care for greensand filters and birm has limitations as well. Avoid using KDF media (copper/zink) as it won't last long, large volumes are needed and huge backwashing pressure is required. I have seen where plants can be affected by softened water and others where there was no noticable difference. Your equipment is outside or in shed? It is true, in part due to bio-diesel programs, that the price of potassium chloride has skyrocketed. Andy Christensen, CWS-II

Hi everyone. I am considering using a pool pump and filter to pump water from a pond to a 1/4 acre garden. The garden sits a few feet lower than the pond so there is some flow by gravity, I just need a pump to have more gallons per minute. I have a 1-1/2" pipe running from the pond to the garden area. The sand filter would help because i will be using drip tape. Does anyone know if this will work? Also, to anyone who pumps from surface water what type of pump and filter do you use? Thanks, Chris