It's like its possessed, Last night it would not start at all, just the thunk noise, so this morning I went outside to make sure all the connections were all clean and tightened again. I put the key in the ignition, knowing good and well that it would not start and poof, it started right up. I cut the grass and it's started again since then. Whatever is wrong with it I have no clue. I don't have the money to have a expert come over and tell me that it wont start, I already know that. Any clues or help would be appreciated. It runs fine when it's running.

Read and re-read this carefully. It might seem complex to the novice but it is really a straight forward and in depth explanation of what goes on, and what you will be looking at. Remove the spark plug from each cylinder. You will adjust BOTH valves on "the same cylinder", ONLY AFTER THAT CYLINDER has been positioned to the proper point in the 4-stroke cycle. Remove the valve cover from both cylinders. Identify each valve as INTAKE valve or EXHAUST valve by doing a visual reference. The INTAKE valve will be physically closest to where the intak manifold connects to the head and the EXHAUST valve will be nearest to where the exhaust manifold connects to the head. Next you need to determine which direction the engine rotates when running. You can determine this by spinning the engine with the starter while watching the flywheel through the fan shroud. Mark the direction with an arrow (at least on a sketch if not on the engine). Once you have determined the direction of rotation, you can proceed to positioning the engine for valve adjustment. You should trun the engine by hand a few complete revolutions to familiarize yourself with the sequence of valve movements through the entire 4 stroke cycle. It requires two complete revolutions of the crankshaft (720 degrees of crankshaft rotation) to one complete "4 stroke cycle". The 4 strokes of a four cycle engine are (and in this sequence): (1) INTAKE STROKE (2) COMPRESSION STROKE (3) POWER STROKE (4) EXHAUST STROKE. The compression stroke is the stroke where you perform the valve adjustments. Before we try to figure out how to identify the compression stroke for a specific cylinder let's describe the movements of the valves and the terms used: When a pushrod is RISING and lifting a rocker arm, the rocker arm will be pushing a valve DOWN. When a valve is DOWN, it is OPEN. When a valve is UP, it is CLOSED. OK, turn the engine by hand in the correct direction of rotation while watching both valves of the cylinder you are going to adjust the valves on. When you get to a point in the turning where the INTAKE VALVE begins to rise up (closing) and the exhaust valve is already UP (closed), you are in the beginning of the COMPRESSION STROKE. At this time you need to insert a wooden pencil or a wooden dowel rod straight into the spark plug hole until it contacts the piston. Hold the dowel firmly against the piston with one hand and resume turning the engine with the other hand. Observe how the piston pushes the dowel out of the plug hole as the piston moves toward the magical point known as Top Dead Center (TDC). At the point where the dowel movement stops, mark the dowel flush with the edge of the plug hole. Now, measure upward 1/4 inch from that mark and put a second mark. Put the dowel back in the hole, firmly against the piston and slowly resume turning the engine (in the direction of rotatation) and you will see the dowel move into the hole as the piston drops. Continue turning the engine until the second mark on the dowel is flush with the edge of the spark plug hole. This cylinder is now in the correct position for adjusting the valves ON THIS CYLINDER ONLY. After adjusting the valves on this cylinder, you will need to repeat the entire procedure to get the opposite cylinder into position to adjust its valves.

Just found this on John Deere's website. The star hole will fit the older models. Hope this may help others. NOTE: The illustrations did not copy. Installation of Starlock designed blades Question Will the new 7 lobe Starlock blade retrofit previous mowing decks? Affected Equipment 1438HS, LX178, 240, LT150H, 165, 345, 42C, 160, 15542HS, 1338GS, 245, 208, LT155, 15538HS, LT150G, 185, 317, 330, 314, 112L, S82, LX277, 170, LX176, LX255, R92, 1842GV, 42, 214, 111, 1538HS, 300, 14538GS, LT133, 1642GS, 325, 42AP, 212, LT160, 14538HS, 332, 1642HS, 175, LX280 AWS, 1842HV, GT262, LX288, 1438GS, GX95, 1638GS, LX277AWS, LX279, RX95, LX188, L1742, LX173, 1542HS, 210, GT242, 180, GT275, 1638HS, GT225, 320, L17542, 216, LX280, 316, LX172, 1538GS, GX255, 38, LT180, 260, LX186, 322, GT245, SRX95, 1542GS, LT166, 108, LT170, 1742HS, 15542GS, GT235, LX266, LX289, 1742GS, 318, 1642HV Answer During the development of the new Select Series tractors, the new Starlock 7 lobe blade and matching deck spindle was introduced.New mower blades for 38" or 42" decks look different than the original blades. These blades have 7 lobes on the inside mounting hole, the original blade was round with no lobes. The spindles on mowing deck are round with no lobes. Previous blades have a round hole design and match up to the round hole spindles. See illustration 1 below. Illustration 1. Old Round Hole Blade and New Starlock Blade. The center of the new Starlock blades were made the same diameter as the previous 38" and 42" blades used on the Sabre, Scotts, LT-Series, and SST tractors. This allows the new Starlock blades to fit the older decks. See illustration 2 below. Illustration 2 - Starlock Blade Installed on Previous Round Deck Spindle Although the Starlock lobes may give the appearance that the hole in the blade is much larger than it actually is, it will not affect how well the blade is clamped to the spindle. The blade retaining washer is cupped along the outside edge and provides clamping force well outside the circumference of the lobes. The red circle in Illustration 3 below reflects the clamping circumference of the cupped blade retaining washer. Illustration 3 - Cupped Blade Retaining Washer Clamping Circumference A slight gap may be apparent between the tip of the lobes and the round spindle. It is recommended that any gap between the lobes and the round spindle is centered prior to tightening the cupped washer to the blade. See illustration 4 below. Illustration 4 - Gap Centered vs. Gap Not Centered Between Lobes and Round Spindle The overall designs of these blades has not changed from the original blade design. They will retain the same shape, lift, wing design, etc as the original round-hole blades. The Starlock blades were tested to fit and function properly on the older mower decks.

I do have an ohm meter! i will check the switch they gave me. im questioning if they even gave me the right switch?? again if i disconnect the grounding wire to the coil the engine starts and runs great! so im assuming that the safety switches are good?? i DONT HAVE A SCHEMATIC of the mower wish i could find one online somwhere for the tractor. i will check the terminals on the switch tonight and get back to you.. how do i test the safety switches exactly? the seat switch i put a jumper wire in and it did nothing.... the clutch switch is a 4 wire switch and there is another one for the deck that is a 4 wire. which i assume keeps the mower from starting if its engauged. not sure how to test the 4 wire switches.. thanks again for the help