When you shook some of the soil off the roots, you probably disturbed/dislodged many of the small feeder roots. The rose needs time for recovery so its roots can take up enough water/nutrients to the leaves, which it is having trouble doing right now because it needs to re-establish some more roots. Roses don't like their rootballs disturbed, next time try taking the rose out of the pot without disturbing the potting soil.

It is good that you're watering it, but maybe too much? I'm sure the soil is saturated if you're watering every night, which is not a good thing. Damp is better. Water a new rose 2-3 times a week if there is no good soaking rain.

The best thing you can do is provide some shade. Try putting a chair over each of them (easier than an umbrella, which can blow away if it's windy). Don't feed them again until they are fully recovered. They should recover.

Yes, partial shade with a lawn chair for a while, and I water such plants 1/2 gallon every other day.

And check that shade several times during the day to make sure the shade stays on the plant as the sun moves across the sky. I usually have to make some adjustments mid-afternoon and late afternoon.

Kate

When planting, water the soil around the rose as you plant to settle it and fill any voids. Don't tamp or pack the soil. Water morning so any wet leaves can dry. Water draining during the night could be leaving the plants with less moisture than may be desirable. It needs to be available during the heat of the day when evaporation from the leaves is the greatest and loss of feeder roots when planting means moisture cannot be replaced so the foliage wilts.
As stated above, losing soil from the roots when planting causes tiny feeder roots to fall away, leaving the plant with no means to take up moisture. These feeder roots grow back quickly but until they do, your plant will show signs of water distress.
Fertilizers applied when planting can burn newly emerging feeder roots so fertilizers should not be applied until after the first bloom or the bush is growing well. A little aged horse manure or an organic slow release fertilizer is fine but it should not be in direct contact with the roots. Mix it well with the soil in the bottom of the hole before planting so the roots can grow into it. If these were own root plants they should be planted no more than an inch deeper than they were in the pot. Feeder roots grow in the top six inches of soil. Larger deeper roots are anchor roots.
Grafted bare root roses should be planted so the graft knob is 4 inches or more below the soil surface to protect it from winter freeze.
E-mail me for instructions on planting a potted bush to avoid soil loss and transplant stress.

Overwatering is easy to do if you have poor draing clay and extremely difficult if you have well draining sandy soil.
Digging a hole in clay and adding new soil or over amending what's there can create a bathtub that holds water. If this was done, you should make sure you are not overwatering and drowning the roots. Roots need oxygen just as we do. Water pulls it down to the roots but water setting on the roots can prevent them from using it. When I plant I settle the soil around the bush with water and don't tamp or compact the soil. I let it be as loose as possible without leaving voids. Rain and watering will settle the soil as much as it needs to be.

If you used peat, check a bit deeper (few inch down) if the soil is not waterlogged. Peat has that kind of nature that keeps the moisture for too long. If it is too wet, do not water every day rather mulch more and provide shade. (On the other hand, when peat dries out it draws the moisture away from the plants.) It was a good idea that you mulched your plants right away.