There is still a lot of misinformation out there regarding the benefits of coffee grounds in the garden. Like most other organic matter, the nutrient content is pretty low - NPK is typically assessed at 1.5-2.5 - .5 - .5. That's only 2.5% nitrogen at most, so its reported value as a "high nitrogen source" is bogus. And it is not particularly fast release or readily available - less than .1% (that's less than one tenth of one percent) of that is immediately available, the rest is tied up in the organic matter and must be digested by soil organisms before it can become available and be taken up by plants. And that takes time :-) And it is true that UCG's contain allelopathic properties that will affect the development and growth of some plants, especially seedlings. There's also a lot of conflicting information about the pH of UCG's - some literature will report they are highly acidic; others that they approach a neutral pH. The truth is actually somewhere in between, with a slightly acidic pH of around 6.0 to 6.3. As a mulch they do produce some negative qualities - because of the very small particle size they can form a rather dense, crusty surface that will repel water if allowed to dry out, much like peat moss or sawdust does if used as a mulch. If you do use them directly, scratch them into the soil surface to a depth of several inches rather than as a surface application or topdressing. I'd recommend their inclusion in to the compost or as a primary ingredient in vermicomposting before applying directly to the soil. They are a very good 'green' (C:N of 24:1) and the composting process will neutralize the acidity (if that is a concern) as well as any allelopathic properties. As to potential harm to dogs, I'd agree with gamekeeper (30+ years of gardening with dogs myself) and say that's pretty much a non-issue. Unless you've got some strange animal with a serious caffeine jones going on, dogs are just not attracted to UCG's. Now cocoa bean hulls are a different story :-) Here is a link that might be useful: The coffee grounds test results

Organic Weed Control Methods ~ Mulching What is Mulch?" Mulch is a protective covering (such as of bark chips, compost, or grass clippings) overlaid on the ground. Mulch reduces the moisture loss from the soil by preventing evaporation from sunshine and desiccating winds. Mulch prevents erosion by eliminating or reducing the "splash-away" effect of torrential downpours. Mulch helps regulate soil temperature by shading it in the summer thus keeping it cooler and helps insulate it in the winter from chilling winds. This temperature regulating effect helps encourage the root growth of plants. Mulch helps to keep fruit clean (such as strawberries and tomatoes) by reducing muddy splash-ups during rainstorms. Mulch controls weed growth by smothering seedlings, prevents daylight which helps foster germination from reaching weed seeds, and prevents air-borne seeds from taking hold in the soil surface. Mulch helps prevent damage to trees and bushes by protecting their stems and surface roots from damage by mechanical garden tools such as weed whackers, edgers, and lawn mowers. Mulch helps prevent soil compaction by providing a cushion to walk upon. Walking on bare soil will compact it reducing its aeration and ability to drain. Mulch provides a more unified and tidy appearance to flower beds and borders. Mulch helps reduce yardwaste disposal and cash outlay. If you utilize your own yard wastes by chipping pruned branches and limbs, make your own compost, or use grass clippings and raked fallen leaves for mulch you won't have to bag and haul them to the curb for collection or pay for their disposal, you won't utilize land-fill space, and you'll keep your wallet in your pocket because the mulch you create is free. Mulch enriches the soil as it breaks down and releases nutrients back into the ground. Mulch, if not already decomposed, will encourage microbial organisms which are beneficial to healthy plants. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ "What are some common mulches?" Chipped hardwood bark mulch: Is readily available for home-owners from township landfills. It is made from ground and/or chipped trees. It is often free or available at a low cost. The downside of chipped bark mulch from municipalities is that it may contain bark from diseased trees. Compost it for a year before using it in your garden. Before you apply the aged bark mulch topdress your garden soil with fertilizers high in nitrogen such as blood-meal, cottonseed-meal, manure, or guano. Softwood bark mulch: Made from pine, fir, or redwood, is available in many different sizes. It is long lasting and excellent for use in foundation plantings. Compost: Is an excellent mulch that you can make at home by composting various yardwastes such as leaves, grass clippings, plants and soft-wood bush prunings, coffee grounds, and non-animal kitchen wastes. Partially decomposed composted material is one of the most nutrient rich mulches you can use. As it breaks down it releases nutrients into the soil. Crushed Corncobs: Regionally available inexpensive mulch. It is generally available as a dyed or natural product. Corncob mulch is a cushioning mulch and is often used in playgrounds. Hay: Often used in rural and farm gardens because it is more likely to be available at the least expensive cost. The use of aged bales may reduce the weed content. Apply hay mulch after the ground has warmed to discourage mice and voles from tunneling under it. Spent Hops: Available from breweries. Can be a bit "whiffy" after application but the scent will dissipate after a few weeks. Buckwheat Hulls: Buckwheat hull mulch is fluffy and is excellent for use around perennials and annuals. Cocoa-bean Hulls: Cocoa-bean hull mulch is a rich brown color and smells like chocolate-heaven (yumyum!). Apply it in a thin layer as it can otherwise become slimy or moldy. If applied at greater than a three inch depth you may wish to occasionally rake it to stir the hulls about, thus reducing the dampness which fosters the mold. Peanut Hulls: Peanut hull mulch is available from garden centers near peanut growers and processors. As it breaks down it provides some nitrogen to the soil. Lawn Clippings: Grass clippings are best used after they've been allowed to dry. If applied while they're fresh they can compact and generate heat while decomposing. They can produce strong odors the first week or two of decomposition but the scent will subside after that. It is not recommended to use grass clippings from lawns that have been treated with pesticides, fungicides, or herbicides. Leafmold: This mulch is available from most municipal composting facilities or you can make your own. Autumn gathered leaves left to decompose over winter will provide you with leafmold ready for use the following spring. Fallen Leaves: The least expensive form of mulch available. It is readily available in Autumn near woody areas. Fallen leaves may be used as is, chopped with the lawn mower to reduce their size, or compost them during winter and use them as leafmold the following spring. Manure: Available as a bagged commercially composted product at garden centers, or available fresh from stables and farms. Fresh manure should be composted for at least six months to reduce nitrogen burn when applied around plants and to reduce the viability of weed seeds in the manure itself. Mushroom soil/compost: Is available at garden centers or sources near commercial mushroom growers. It is generally inexpensive. Peat Moss: A commonly used mulch, it is attractive when applied thickly. Look for course-grade peat moss when using it for a mulch. It can be cost prohibitive when used for mulching large areas. Peat moss will shed water when it's dry rather than absorbing it. You can help maintain it's moisture by watering this mulch regularly when you also water your lawn. Pine Needles: Are a light colored, fluffy, and pretty mulch. Leave them in place under pine trees rather than removing them. Rake them from your lawn grass and use them to mulch around acid-loving plants such as azaleas, blueberries, and rhododendrons. They are also excellent to use as a cushioning mulch for garden paths and will release their pine scent when walked upon. Sawdust: Available from timber mills or other wood processing businesses. As it decomposes it can cause nitrogen loss from the the soil so if used in garden beds apply nitrogen rich fertilizers regularly. Sawdust is an excellent mulch for garden paths. It is not recommended to use sawdust from chemically treated or painted wood. Straw: Can be used for winter protection as an overlay in muddy areas and will provide some traction on icy paths. It is also frequently used as a mulch in veggie gardens. Do not use straw mulch in frequently used areas as it is highly inflammable. Do not use it to mulch walkways as it can be easily ignited by a carelessly tossed smoldering cigarette butt. Wood Chips: Can be obtained from arborists, utility companies, municipal yard waste facilites, and garden centers. They are very long lasting and make a good overlayment for paths and walkways. To learn more about mulch and the wonderful effect of compost and micro-organisms in the soil please visit the "Soil, Compost, and Mulch Forum" and do read their fabulous FAQs. Taking care of your soil is vital to having a garden of healthy and vigorous plants.

I wouldn't put much stock in Garden's Alive assessment. It is true that UCG's can initially test out to be somewhat acidic, especially when very fresh, but that changes quite rapidly as they age - even just a couple of weeks. And as noted above, it would take an enormous quantity to affect any sort of measurable pH change with soil and that would only be very temporary. Like other potentially acidic materials used as soil amendments or mulch, the leaching of any acids is too insignificant or too easily neutralized by incorporation with the soil to have any significant impact on pH. UCG's have been tested at various soil labs in various locations across the country, dating back to the late 90's when Starbucks first started its Grounds for Your Garden campaign, and virtually without exception the tests have come back showing only a slightly acidic to near neutral pH: typically around 6.5-6.9. It really comes down to how the coffee was brewed but nearly all of the acidic properties of coffee come with the liquid brew, not the grounds. Noted professor, horticulturist and garden myth-buster, Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott dispels this myth rather succinctly: " A commonly held assumption states that coffee grounds are acidic but this does not hold true experimentally. While two studies on coffee ground composting reported mild acidic pHs of 4.6 and 5.26, others have measured neutral (7.7) to slightly alkaline (8.4) levels. One researcher found that the pH of soil treated with coffee compost increased after 14 to 21 days of incubation, gradually decreasing thereafter. Obviously the pH of decomposing coffee grounds is not stable and one shouldn't assume that it will always, or ever, be acidic"

I had the same thing happen to me last year. Instead of removing the sawdust, I just used a broom and a rake and spread it around the entire yard as best as I could. Then I applied Milorganite. That part of the yard has the richest soil on my entire property. The Milorganite provided a boost of nitrogen to help the initial breakdown. I don't even see wood chips anymore. The nitrogen hogging issue only occurs if you let the wood chips and saw dust under the soil. That is, don't till it. The wood can pull nitrogen from the air to decompose. If it gets buried in the soil, it can only pull it from the soil itself. That's where you run into issues. If the wood chips and sawdust sit on top of the soil... It's actually one of the best things you can do for the soil. They will keep the soil moist and generally provide great food for the soil life to break down.