Star jasmine will completely cover a fence. It will appear to be a hedge. This will take a good amount of water, but so would a rose. If you want another rose option, 'Secret Garden Musk Climber' would probably be faster than 'Iceberg' to cover a fence. Blooms maybe even more than 'Iceberg', and fragrant too. Blooms much better than 'Sally Holmes'. Other vines that will cover a chain link fence are Lavender Trumpet vine, Clytostoma callistegioides, or another trumpet vine called 'Tangerine Beauty', Bignonia capreolata. These are faster and somewhat easier than Star Jasmine, and with a longer blooming period. It's a good idea to cut vines like these completely to the ground every 5 or 6 years so they don't get too woody and leafless at the bottom. As much as I love roses, they are not the solution for every spot in the garden. Look at the star jasmine in the upper left hand corner of the photo. See the fence? No? That's what it does. Same for the other vines. Thanks for that link, roseseek.

My Rainbow's End isn't a climbing mini, but it certainly blooms bright yellow at first. It takes each bloom a couple of days to turn bright pink and eventually fade out. I like it, but it doesn't seem as robust as 80% of my other minis & minifloras, and it has really short stems--like no stems at all. It also likes to completely defoliate about twice each summer even though I spray a bit. Are reds out of the question? I have a Daddy Frank that's nearly the size of a hybrid tea after 2 years and it's always in bloom, gorgeous, and far too tall for where I planted it. Jean Kennealley has done excellent for me here, and the nonclimbing version is quite vigorous and tall. A bonus with Jean is a lovely scent. It's not coral pink, but a light peach that might look muddied among yellows and pinks; that would be the main concern there, I think.

I've moved way too many roses, climbers included , in my garden; seems like every autumn we have a bout of "musical roses" game. So, though I don't consider myself an expert, I take the liberty to respond. One reason I hate moving climbers is that experience has taught me that it is much, much better to prune them back pretty drastically if you move them (reducing the canes to about 1-2 feet tall), so then you have to wait a couple seasons for them to grow back to what they were.In one or two cases I've managed to move them leaving some long canes, but cutting them way back is much more fool proof.To me it seems that, no matter how big a root ball you manage to conserve when digging the plant up,the roots inevitably undergo a shock on being moved,and they find it very hard to send out the vital energy,lymph or whatever, all the way up long canes.Instead, if they only have short canes to "maintain", they can concentrate themselves on re-establishing, settling down in the new spot, and re-growing themselves in the first year after the move. Then in the following year, the plant can start to grow again vigorously.Now, that's just my two cents.Keep in mind that my garden is far from my house, in a wild place, with no running water,so I can't pamper my plants really.So I'm certainly NOT saying that I think that Seil is "wrong"!!! I'm just saying that I have found that cutting them back rather severely, IN MY SITUATION, has been more reliable. regards to all, bart

zipi, how big a space do you have for this rose? Just because something is called a mini climber does not mean it will be a small plant. Mini climbers only have small flowers and leaves but the plant can get as large as any other climber, maybe 12 to 15 feet, and will need support. If you look at the pictures for the mini climber msm84 suggest you'll see how large the bush can be. Unfortunately I don't see any vendors for that rose still open in the US. The two listed there are both closed. I also don't see any other apricot ones but there are a lot of pinks that might work. Here is a link that might be useful: Cl. Baby Darling