Cub Cadet 1042... PTO blows fuses now does not engage at all

16 years ago

I have been having problems with the PTO blowing the fuse if I put the tractor in reverse with the PTO engaged. I have just been keeping a box of fuses in the drink holder for the times I forget.

Today I forgot and it did not blow the fuse, the tractor kept running and will start up again if I shut it off, the fuse is not blown but the PTO will do nothing. No engage, no click, nothing. The closest shop is about a 40 minute drive from here.

What can I do to find and possible bypass the problem?

Thank You!!

Julien

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Comments (8)

jbow
Original Author
16 years ago
I tried to deleted a message and seem to have just made a mess... sorry...

Julien
0
jbow
Original Author
16 years ago
I tried to deleted a message and seem to have just made a mess... sorry...

Julien
0
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bill, i read that as .15 volts, not 15 though it is hard to tell. you know, i have always been told that the definition of crazy is repeatedly doing the same thing and expecting different results. quit sticking fuses in there and start ACTUALLY diagnosing the problem. and go back to teh correct size fuse. i would not buy a new wiring harness unless the existing harness is extremely damaged. you cna splice a broken wire or even several, you can tape up and seal nicked wiring(don't use cheap tape get super 33), and you can ohm each individual wire if necessary to find breaks/shorts. this harness is not goign to have shielded wires nor fiber optics, therefor there is NO reason it cannot be fixed except for after the fire. and you keep putting bigger fuses in it and you will have one, that or you will eventually melt all the insulation off the wires and be forced to do a new harness. i would remove the deck and go over/under/around the whole wiring harness. odds are you have 1 wire hanging close to somethign and it has a small nick. when it hits the chassis, it pops the fuse. heck, the shop could have even mashed it when installing the new engine.
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Thanks for the responses. I finally got a chance to go out and look at it. I didn't have a helper around, so I used my cell phone to take a video under the deck to see if anything was moving. The belts were turning, but the blades were not. I pulled off the deck, cleaned it up a little bit, and pulled on the belt tensioner a few times, put it back together, and it started working. While driving back to the garage, with the blades engaged, there was a thump, and some metal on metal rubbing/grinding sounds. I shut off the blades, and it continued. I shut off the engine, let it cool down, and didn't see anything obviously loose. I restarted the engine and the grinding noise is still there with the pto not engaged. I guess my next step is the pull the pto clutch, and inspect it. Anything I should look for? Thanks
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There is a short somewhere between the fuse holder and the ignition switch. Did Bill say that already? :^) The wire is Red with a black tracer. Be suspicious of any place where it looks like a harness might be squeezed by, rubbing, or bent sharply around any metal surface. If you see any of the mentioned conditions, you may have to physically cut into the harness over wrappings to inspect the wiring inside. Be really careful if you decide to start opening a harness, you don't want to create more problems by hacking ruthlessly. When I have to open a harness I use a #11 X-acto knife and slice with the cutting edge facing AWAY from the harness bundle so I am only able to cut the tape and not the wires underneath. Then I peel the tape away. Many harnesses these days have plastic split loom covering the wires and if cap unravel the tape you can remove the loom to inspect everything inside. Sometimes shorts can develop between a hot wire and a ground wire inside the harness if the harness gets "mashed' really hard or crushed tightly for a long time. Searching for shorts can be a daunting task sometimes.
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The seat switch isn't in the crank circuit, so you don't have to worry about being in the seat for the SOLENOID tests. Basically, jumping 12V to the SMALL solenoid terminal should result in the solenoid engaging and the starter motor cranking. You are bypassing ALL switches (in the crank circuit) when you do this. Clicking indicates a couple different possibilities- 1. Battery low- As soon as the starter motor engages, it pulls down the voltage enough that the solenoid "drops out". Since the starter isn't trying to turn any more, voltage jumps back up and the solenoid re-engages. Repeat with a "machine gun effect" of rapid clicking. I'd really suggest getting the battery charged and LOAD tested. Autozone and similar places will do a free load test in hopes of selling you a battery. 2. BAD connection in the crank circuit. This is basically your "heavy gauge" battery cables & connections + the ground circuit, which includes engine mounting bolts being tight etc. 3. Possibly a bad solenoid? With your volt meter hooked across the 2 large solenoid studs (it'll read 12V), jump 12V to the small solenoid terminal. IF the solenoid is switching internally like it should, the Volt meter should drop to near ZERO. This is because the voltage is traveling through the "switch". IF the solenoid CLICKS, but does not crank, observe the Volt Meter. IF it shows 12V, it means the internal switch is bad and the voltage is trying to travel through the meter.
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jbow
Original Author
16 years ago
I am going to be quiet and just read, sorry for the mess...

Julien
0
cobhonfor
16 years ago
My CC 2180 was blowing fuses last year when I turned on the headlights, finally figured out the battery was dying, and once I replaced it, I never blew another fuse, go figure!!?
0
jdd332d
16 years ago
I believe this unit has an electric PTO. When you go in reverse the PTO should automatically disengage. Do you normally turn off the PTO manually before you back up?
0
bill_kapaun
16 years ago
If you have an Ohm meter, you can run this resistance test on the clutch.
Unplug the connector to the clutch. You should have about 2.5-3.0 Ohms across the coil.
0
jbow
Original Author
16 years ago
It is an electric PTO. I have been disengaging when I go into rteverse because if I do not it blows the fuse. It does normally turn the PTO off. It blows the fuse.

I have no idea where the clutch connector is or what the coil is. I do have a voltmeter though!

Thanks,

J
0
jdd332d
16 years ago
Clutch connector is near the... clutch. Just follow the wire coming out of the clutch. Hopefully the clutch isn't bad because it's the most expensive replacement part after the engine and transaxle.

You can disable the reverse mow safety "feature" by disconnecting the connector at the switch. Follow the rod connected to the foot pedal back to the transaxle. There is a switch back there that detects reverse pedal condition. Just disconnect it and tape it up out of the way. That probably won't fix your problem now though. There must be some wires crossed or shorted. Examine all the wires you can to see if there are any with broken insulation the might be touching the frame. I'd check the clutch first though.
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Cub Cadet 1042... PTO blows fuses now does not engage at all

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Cub Cadet 1042... PTO blows fuses now does not engage at all

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jbowOriginal Author

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cobhonfor

jdd332d

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