Bpgreen said: "You got the correct answer the first time. My friend is correct; you did get the correct answer the first time. However, another of the reasons one doesnÂt want to use leachate is due to the fact that during the beginning of the composting process many toxic chemicals are generated. Only after an extended period of time (depending on what is being composted, size of materials, etc.) do the beneficial microbes digest these toxins. Having too much liquid in a compost pile/tumbler is avoided for this reason (among others). Speed of decomposition, lessening of harmful toxins, and odor control all play a part in the reasons why suggestions are given to avoid too much moisture. And too, having a optimal C:N ratio (or close to it) and large enough of an organic pile can play their part as well. If one feels these are not good enough reasons to avoid using leachate on plants, one can still use the liquid on their plants. However, IMO waiting until the compost is at least "finished" has/will given the best and safest results when using/making compost tea (not leachate)Â Blutranes

My garden is going really slow this year due to NO SPRING in California and a cool summer! Compost can't help that problem.

The optimal level of soil organic matter ranges from 5 to 8 percent, so at 7.4 you have a good level and not one I would start thinking I needed to stop adding OM yet. Compost teas can help if the soil is not good and healthy and the plants need a boost, but if the soil is good and healthy and the plants are growing strong and healthy spending your time and energy making compost tea is unnecessary.

Probably better to just use the results of your previous composting to amend the soil. Not really all that important to make compost tea except if you have a specific use, like a weak diluted fertilizer for well established seedlings or something else - I've made lots of compost for years and never needed a compost tea. I've used some barrel-type composters, but personally I prefer my method of cutting 10-foot lengths of a cheap 2"X4"X4' welded wire fencing to form free-standing rings. I cut halfway between the vertical wires to leave tabs, bend 3 or 4 into hooks to hold the ring together, A 50' roll makes five bins. I typically have three bins working at different stages, and several more filled with ground up leaves(brown dry materials) that I use as cover when I bring out my compost bucket or have other "greens." I build my current pile in layers whenever I have greens, layering it with browns. Once I get to the top of a bin, I can start another - layer of browns, then greens, etc. The one that filled up, I can remove the fence ring, set it next to the pile, then turn the pile back into the ring, adding water to moisten as necessary. I usually have one pile finished, or about finished, when I need it, one pile turned and working, and another pile being built over several months while using greens from the kitchen. If I get a bounty of grass clippings(I don't pick them up in my yard) or other greens, I may generate a pile a little quicker. The pile that's working can be made to process quicker by turning and moistening a few extra times, but I'm not usually that impatient. Technically, compost happens all on its own given enough time!