Thanks for the help on this Larry. I indeed did not adjust the valves the way I should have. I will use your method and let you guys know how it goes tomorrow.

No luck. It'll turn past the compression stroke and start, but it runs at low rpm no matter where I set the throttle. Double checked plugs, valves, air gap for armature, fuel pump, took carb off and cleaned it, statically set the governor linkage using the manual, cleaned the fuel filter, verified gas to the carb, everything I can think of.
Both plugs are firing, don't know if both cylinders are running right. If I take the plug wire off one side, it only runs for a few seconds, if i take the plug wire off the other side, it only runs for a few seconds.
I turned the motor over with the plugs out to see if I was getting gas, and it wasn't getting enough to ignite with a grill lighter unless I turn the motor over for about 20 seconds, and then only one side will ignite.
Can valves cause the mower to not get enough gas into the cylinder? I'm 99% sure they are set right as Mownie sent me very detailed instructions on how to find TDC, mark a dowel and set it 1/4" past, then adjust the valves.
The plugs are firing REALLY well so I am pretty sure I can rule that out.
It acts like not enough gas to the cylinders. It will run with the throttle set to half or more, but the rpms don't change. Moving the throttle to slow kills it.

might chk to verify that after fire solenoid at bottom of carb (if so equipped) is actuating (retracting) when ignition switch is turned to run position. You should hear it click.

That solenoid controls the hi-speed or load fuel circuit inside the carb and is present to minimize muffler backfires on shutdown.
If not sure, remove solenoid, ground to frame, turn on ign sw and observe that valve does indeed retract.

I just read that in the Briggs manual in the troubleshooting section. It does have a fuel shut-off solenoid on the bottom of the carb. I'll check it out. It's driving me crazy...lol
I've got good spark, I'm just not sure how much gas should be getting to the cylinders, but it's not getting much. I tried to turn it over without the plugs and then light a grill lighter by the cylinder and nothing....
Thanks.

It actuates every time i turn the key to the run position. Was worth a shot though.
What's so bad about it is that it started and ran smooth until I pulled the motor, changed the sump gasket and adjusted the valves. I can think of anything I could have done to mess it up. I didn't even take the carb off when I pulled the motor. I didn't remove the camshaft or crank. I'm perplexed.

"Last, but not least, I did statically set the governor, but I am not sure if I did it correctly. Should I leave the governor link all the way off the governor shaft when I make the static settings, or just make sure there is no tension on it? Hope this makes sense."

Maybe your problem is in how you did the static governor setting. Did you follow this Youtube instruction?:

http://www.youtube.com/user/IFIXIT4U#p/u/0/tOoArROpM_o

Not exactly. The Briggs manual didn't say to hold the throttle open, and I had a question on that because I wasn't sure where it needed to be. Now I know. It's 10 p.m., but I'm headed back to the garage. Been at it since 9 this morning with this thing...
Thanks.

Ok. Done. The good news is, I have more power now and it starts easier. The bad news is I am only at about 60% to 70% of what it should have and it still won't run at the lowest setting.
Friday will be the next chance I get to work on it. I am going to make sure the belts are all on track correctly first thing as I know that can bog it down.
Thanks!

Checked compression- 150 one side 147 on the other
Cleaned Carb
Bypassed fuel solenoid
Checked flywheel key
Replaced Pulse hose
Adjusted low idled governor
Tried to adjust top-rpm governor setting but no change in rpm
RPMs are still low. Runs pretty smooth, no more spitting gas and plugs are firing steady.
I have no clues. lol
The only thing it is doing wrong (besides the rpm not going up) is the pedals don't engage the drive train. I'll check the belts in the morning. I'm having difficulty downloading the users manual to check belt routing and wiring diagram.

Moved this to thread entitled "25 hp Briggs wont rev to full rpm"
I've got several posts going on this thing and rather than dragging them on and on, I just started a new one.
My only current problem (besides a bad voltage regulator) is that I have only one rpm speed and its about where normal low speed idle is. I explain in the other thread.
Thanks for all the help.