Obtain a large corrugated paperboard box, stuff cat and carpet into box, cut piece of house floor out, and then ship cat and all to a relative or a stranger someplace far away, and use no return address!
VOILA!!! Problem solved! You will have to replace the flooring, but it really works!
And next time--buy Fresh Step, or some other kitty litter and train the critter to use it! Only takes 1 or 2 sore noses and a quick toss into the litter box each time, for the cat to get the message!
by: Rustyj

What happened was the owner, not me, was too lazy to clean the litter box. Most cats are very fussy and like a clean box else they will find another spot to go. I relocated litter box to basement. Yes, it is my fault for allowing a stray cat into the house 9 years ago to begin with but I felt sorry for it at the time.

I since learned that I can't save the world and wouldn't do it again.

Would you throw your wife out of the house for bringing home a cute kitten? lol

Quote: Would you throw your wife out of the house for bringing home a cute kitten? lol

I'm thinking, I'm thinking!!!
Norm
PS we finally got the cat smell out of the carpet with Febreeze, preceeded by a whole garage full of other chemicals. We'll probably die from using all those chemicals in the end.

I'm not making this up. Cats like to be in elevated places. By putting your cat in the basement, you are creating revenge issues with the cat. They know they are in a low place and they'll pay you back.

I have had good success with a product called "Anti Icky Poo" You should be able to find a veterinarian in your area, or contact the manufacturer. I am not making this up,just do a google search. The trick is to apply it and leave it there for 30 min or more before rinsing to allow enough time to break down the urine. I know animal behavior experts that recommend it because it will remove enough odor that the cat won't be attracted back to the area to mark territory. Hope this helps.

antiickypoo link attached

Here is a link that might be useful: Antiickypoo

Thanks for the link. The wet solution in "Icky" uses some type of bacteria.

OK, I will first try the oxidation method then give "Icky" a try.

I wonder if hydrogen peroxide would work? Some products use chlorine dioxide?? Seems like they both have a bunch of oxygen molecules...but will they attach themselves to uric acid molecules...and yield a non-smelly product..hmmm.

I will probably end up blowing up my house mixing my own formula. lol

baymee:

"I'm not making this up. Cats like to be in elevated places"

The cat can still come upstairs but the litter box is in the laundry room.

OK. Hope they can look out the window once in awhile :)

I dealt with this years ago. I found that the cat urine soaked into the subfloor. I dealt with this by taking up the carpet and sealing the area with plastic, "glued" down with spar varnish. If you can get that area of carpet loose without destroying it, my method, or even the products you are describing, might work better applied directly to the subfloor.

Michael

I might lift the carpet anyway but have avoided this so far as you never get the carpet back as good as it was originally. I will try soaking the carpet with an oxidizer first. If that doesn't work....then more drastic measures.

Time to go down to my mad scientist lab and mix some chemicals...eeevil laugh follows while rubbing hands together.

There is a product called ODOR Ban Odor Eliminator that we have had real good luck with. We buy it at Sams for about $9.00 a gal.

Before you blow up your house consider using this smell as a positive. When you think about it this might be unique selling point that will attract cat lovers from miles around. Imagine moving your ten cats into a house that already smells like home. Add a few thousand to the asking price and advertize it in some cat magazines.

Going the Michael_East route. Pulled up the carpet. Went to HD and got new padding and double sided tape. I will polyurethane the subfloor before putting new padding down.

I dumped 1/2 gallon of Hydrogen Peroxide onto the stink area and waited 1/2 hour before vacuuming up the excess. The stink dropped way down.

The acid test is when the rug drys.

OK, here is the verdict: TOTAL SUCCESS!!!

This man made fiber carpet had 10 years of fresh and dried cat urine in it. Yuck.

The enzymes took most of it out. What was also needed was a powerful wet vaccum. Don't forget to flush the toilet when dumping this stuff. I forgot once and it brewed in the bowl over night. The stench almost floored me. Let the enzymes sit for a few hours. Cover with plastic. The stains will come out but the oder will persist.

You cannot get 100% of the uric acid crystals so step 2 is to break them down with Hydrogen Peroxide or another oxidizer such as chlorine dioxide which is found in some pet deoderizers. Color test first. Wool carpets will discolor. I suspect another good oxidizer may be Nok-Out. (I never used it but the product does have an oxidizer.)

Even though the subfloor does not smell, I elected to seal it against future accidents.

I ordered a product by Simple Solution that also has an oxidizer and stain remover. It was not available in the large pet retailers so I ordered the powdered version online. I have not yet used this product but I expect it to be better than straight enzymes.

Well...that was one stinky job!

try veneger it stinks also but will eliminate cat urine odor.
at least it has for me. good luck.

Burning the house to the ground will eliminate the pet odor.

Burning a strong scented candle an hour prior to showing it for sale will also go a long way toward hiding the problem.

Bottom line, fire is the answer.

Both great ideas, but now that you have the actual problem fixed, I guess they aren't needed. :-)

We bought a house with a recently cleaned carpet, only to find a few weeks later a number of large cat stains. We got about $400 back from the seller from the escrow account. (not enough for the amount of damage we had to deal with)
The carpet will come clean with any number of enzym type products but the pad won't. The stain and smell will come back.
You must pull back the carpet and replace all of the pad that is soiled.
While you have the carpet pulled back, prime the floor 2x with "Bin" primer sealer (alchohol base).
You might need a carpet layer to help with the removal and replacing.
I'm a general contactor and I've found this to be the only sure way to rid the carpet and house of odor.
Good Luck

Thanks bukbuild...

I replaced the pad underneath and soaked the floor with enzymes and hydrogen peroxide. I let it dry using a fan and air conditioner. After drying I used an oil base polyurethane.
Enzymes do about 75% of the job. You need an oxidizer to totally get it out of the carpet.

I just checked the carpet again, ...no smell at all.

The products in the past 10 years mostly used enzymes. You will use 100's of dollars worth and still not get it all. Some uric acid crystals still remain. The oxidizer breaks it
down into something that doesn't stink even if you do not get all of the crystals sucked out.

Now to clean the rest of the carpet and put out the "House For Sale" sign and hopefully sell it at a good price before the housing market implodes.

I bought a house from a bank c1977 in a nice Avon, CT neighboorhood. People had kept two German Sheppards indoors and those dogs gave the place a real character, especially the unfinished oak under the carpet. Cats are even worse.

I went to a place called "Hartford Chemical" that sold chemicals for removing animal oders, smoke oder from burnt houses, and dead body oders from houses where somebody died and rested there for awhile before someone else found them. Dead bodies are particularly aromatic. So ask you fire department or undertaker for leads on your local chemical purveyors. The stuff I used removed all oders and they never came back.

"So ask you fire department or undertaker for leads on your local chemical purveyors"

I'll have to admit, I would never have thought of that source in a million years. (undertaker)

hummm

rehcips, fire is not ALWAYS the answer (although in this case, it probably is). You should try duct tape, if at all possible, before resorting to fire. And remember the words of the handyman's idol, Red Green: "If it ain't broke, you ain't tryin' hard enough!"

I will attest that Anti-icky poo is the best thing out there. While I have learned not to have cats and carpets.... I have managed to save several upholstered chairs, cement floors,wood floors and tile grout using it. (I have a two "repeat offender" cats)

Anti-Icky-Poo uses a live bacteria to eliminate organic matter (urine, feces, vomit) from fabrics and carpet. The bacteria actually consumes and rids the debris.
Don't be put off by the Live Bacteria part. Its a safe commensal bacteria already out in the world around you.

It stays active as long as it is moist (great in humidity that tends to bring bad odors alive again!) But when dry it goes dormant.

It isn't cheap... but if you have spent tons of money on products that haven't worked or have had to throw out parts of your house.... you'll know it is worth its price when you have tried it but Once on a problem.

It is mentioned that the cat urine can cause health problems. I can't seem to find any information about this and would be grateful for you input.

The only problem was my "mental health" before I found the solution to my problem. My house sold BTW. The odor never came back.

Some animals can leave bacteria in the soil (poop) so I recommend you wear gloves while gardening.

I use nok out odor eliminator and it works great. I pretty much use it daily for all kinds of things around the house. The best price that I've found is at JRS Medical for $8 a bottle.

http://www.jrsmedical.com/CLEANERS_DEODORANTS/DEN58006/product.aspx

Here is a link that might be useful: nok out at JRS Medical

25-06 and a match to the carpet! (just joking!!!) I don't like cats, majority of there owners let them run wild cause the don't bark or tip over trash cans thinking they aren't doing no harm, but they are out on the prowl killing all the song birds in the area and jumping up on cars scratching the paint.

Now, if the would put a dent in the Trash rat birds the English sparrow and starling population some good may come from it. But, they don't.

think about that the next time you let little kitten out unleashed.

I had an old roommate who had a cat. After he moved on, his cats did a LOT of damage, especially to an older family hand me down rug. I used a service here in Los Angeles called Chem Dry of LA, specifically, one of their products, 'Purt II.' Before this, I tried oxy clean, cleaning my throw rug in an industrial laundry mat, apple cider, pet stain remover and still nothing worked. After they used the Purt II solution, I couldn't find one scent of the cat in question. It was like new. Save yourself headache and time and just let them deal with it. They are amazing.

Here is a link that might be useful: www.chemdryla.com

My previous roommate's cat peed on the rug my mom bought me as a housewarming gift. It's a 3'x4' dark red shag-style rug. My roommate cleaned it with Nature's Miracle when it first happened, but after a day or so of still smelling the urine, we rolled the rug up and stuck it in the garage (where it sat for 3 or so months). Well, I just recently moved to New Orleans (I left the roommate and her damn cat behind!!) and would love to use my comfy carpet on my new hardwood floors. Problem is, as soon as I unrolled it I could smell the pee -- it stunk up my entire house in literally minutes! I've read through several related threads on this forum and most have been about wall-to-wall carpeting with padding, etc. rather than just an area rug. I'm not sure if I can throw the rug into an industrial laundry mat washer or use a steam cleaner on it since it is a shag-style rug... any ideas? I know I could just toss the rug and save myself the headache, stink, and money -- but I would really prefer to save it if at all possible! Thanks in advance :)

try fds (feminine deoderant spray).It took the cat urine smell out of an old steamer trunk,takes a few applications.Also works great for dogs that have been skunked,careful not to get in their eyes or nose.

Here is a recipe that worked for me to get cat urine out of a wicker drawer dresser:
1 qt of Hydrogen Peroxide (3%)
1/4 cup of baking soda
1 tsp of dish soap.

You must drench the area with this solution, let sit for 15 min then wash out completely. Really rinse it good. You cannot store this solution.

Before I found this recipe I tried Bleach, ammonia, vinegar, dish soap, "just for cats advanced formula from Natures miracle" and plain hydrogen peroxide (3%)

hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, dish soap:: is it always supposed to foam up when applied to cat urine or vomit?? it did the first time I tried it. when I tried it to other stains from the cat, it didn't foam up. Does that mean I didn't measure correctly??