gardenerwantabe - I agree with your point. We built it on the driveway so we would have a flat surface near tools and power. The debate is now on as to the permanent location to which we will move it, which have been thrown into flux due to gato's wind issues. She wants it over in the corner where it will get direct (and sometimes very hot) sun - I am proposing a location between some trees where it will have some shelter from the wind, and a bit less direct sun. I won't install either the corner bracing, or any other enhancements such as angle aluminum across the doorway or 1/2 EMT across the mid-sections until we have the GH sitting on footings at a permanent location. Then I will add all of that to stiffen and secure the unit. 2 questions: We are in Mount Shasta, CA which is snow country (3500' elevation) and the snow can tend to be fairly wet and heavy. We had as much as 3' accumulation in some areas of the property over the past winter during some storms. Obviously I should remove snow from the roof if it accumulates like that, but I'm thinking about establishing some structural support along the roofline - either directly beneath the ridge, or adjacent to the #30 braces that are installed in the roof. Those supports would be probably be 2x4 or 2x6 lumber, supported by wood posts down to the ground. Does this seem a good idea, or unnecessary? In an earlier post, I raised the idea of setting the GH on top of 2x12 PT fir, so that it would sit on a footing like this: I see that you set your's on 4x4 PT. My thought is to raise the GH in this manner so that when snow is on the ground, at least the first foot of snow accumulation would be against the wood foundation. I realize this means a step up and over the threshold. Any thoughts on this? Does anyone believe that this amount of wood foundation, or possibly more, would help in terms of withstanding snow accumulation? Would the additional height raise any other issues concerning the effectiveness of the GH? Thanks, Greg

If you put it on the inside, it should last a lot longer and remain much cleaner because it won't be subjected to wind, rain, bird crap, and leaf deposits. If it's on the outside, it will look like your GH has a tarp hanging on it...if appearance is a concern for you or your neighbors. I have mine draped on the inside and prefer that. Here's a picture of my nearly finished GH showing the arrangement of the shade cloth.

Harbor Freight did not suggest this. Lets just say that Harbor Freights Tech support was, um Harbor Freight... I have to admit it was nice, they Cross shipped me new ones, which performed the same as the old ones. I found an overseas manufacturer of similar "budget vents", I think they were called Thermofor, who was very helpfull, and gave me a suggestion. I unscrewed the endcap that has the adjustment screw, and press the plunger till the seal almost comes out, then the oil will start to leak if you press softly on the plunger (If I pressed hard the seal comes all the way out, and you get a big mess ;) then close the whole thing and test. THrough trial and error, I now have all five of my HF openers opening between 65 and 75 degrees. Gato, I am not sure why mine did not work, and yours did, I am only 1300 feet higher than you, but I had a Total of ten from HF (The first five and the second five). Even at 38 degrees they were open five inches under load before I modified them ;) I would not recomend that anyone else try this, because I am sure it voids the warranty. (I tried it on just one first, then got bolder and tried the rest. I did spill all the oil out of one, and I replaced the oil with Cooking oil, even this one is now working ;) so I guess I will have to wait and see if opening them is gonna cause any long term ill effects.

Shelf supports: 2 2x4's set on edge (8 feet long) supported in a "sandwich" of 2 2x4's 32" high at either end of the HFGH. This brings the great covered grating exactly to standard kitchen counter height. Shelves are easily removed in 2 four foot sections. I used untreated 2x4 because with the plastic drip pans underneath we can let excess water drain off - and I did not want the chemicals in treated wood dripping on any plants we might set below. We have the 2 6' greenhouse benches that HF sells for the 6x8 HFGH as well. They are "spares". Insulation: Exterior panels are simply wedge fit. They have been in daily on/off use for over a month and are working perfect even in 20-30 mph wind. Our HFGH is protected by a Northside 8' fence and the house. Interior insulation. North wall, bottom - wedge fit 4x8 insulatin trimmed to (I think) about 44 inches tall. North wall ceiling - the extra bolts you are instructed to add in some of the Garden web HFGH construction posts are simply popped through the insulation at the ridge rafter. Bolts: The underside of the roof rafters has a track in it. If you ever want to hang plants inside, during construction you need to slide a nut with abolt attached down that channel before assembling the roof rafter to the ridge and side walls. We used 2" x 13/16 eye bolts which will take the hooks from most hanging baskets. These eye bolts are popped through the insulation and turned 90 degrees to the face of it - hold it up fine. For "personal or detailed responses" please include your personal email - it is a pain finding this thread on Gardenweb! Hard to add photos to the photobucket series as doing so will knock the logical order of the slides all to simthereens Happy thanksgiving Steve & Kathy Wisconsin