Good, glad that helped! This section of my blog shows how we screwed in our panels, and what type of screws we used. We bought ours at Lowes. Adding the Panels If you live in a windy area, as I do, I'd strongly recommend screwing in the panels as you go...in other words, I'd recommend against tempting fate by planning on doing it later, especially since you don't have your extra clips yet. I've read too many scary stories here about lost panels (and wrecked frames) when the panels are just installed as per the kits. You might want to read my blog from start to finish...or at least skim it...I tried to combine many of the helpful tips offered by many Harbor Freight owners here at GardenWeb (who are a super group of folks, as you can tell!) Hopefully you'll find some helpful info, even though mine is the 10x12. When it comes to the reinforcements, the small difference in greenhouse size shouldn't make any difference. Good luck!

Hi Willa, To work well, the top and bottom tracks need to be parallel and solid. I do have a wooden base under the steel GH base, and that might provide some stiffness to the bottom track. One idea is adding an extra brace to the frame right over the top of the doors, to stiffen up the top track. That seems to help the doors operate more smoothly too. We just added a piece of oak we had, but others folks have used a piece of EMT or aluminum angle in the same spot. The idea is to help prevent the top track from sagging at all if possible. (click to enlarge) Also, this is a good thing to check...there's a small illustration at the bottom of page 15 of the manual, labelled Side View. (Shown below.) This shows you that the small black plastic clip Part 51 has to be guided onto the bottom door track so the small vertical part of the aluminum track is actually threaded up into the vertical gap in the center of black plastic part 51. If you do it right, the bottom leg of the black plastic "L shape" goes down the front and under the L-shaped aluminum door track, as the illustration shows. If you don't install it just like the manual shows, it's actually possible to install the doors so that the black plastic part 51 is just sitting on top of the door track, sliding along in the small valley there. Although your doors can function (sort of) this way, they can also fall off, since they're not truly captured at the bottom in the manner the kit intends. My doors can't even be pulled off the track, top or bottom. I've honestly never seen anyone comment that the wheels can be pulled off the door itself, and there really shouldn't be that kind of pressure on the door to cause that at all...it makes me think something else is wrong with your door tracks (problem with your bottom track rising up?) or, with the black clip not being installed quite right, as in the illustration above. I'm kind of scratching my head over what would possibly cause that. :-( This part of my blog talks more about the doors, in case there's anything helpful here to you: Assembling the roof, windows, and doors

Troutsqueezer1, thanks for the informative post. My doors didn't need to be cut (slid like butter after the minor rubber washer trick you mentioned) but my kit is about 4 years old now. I have had a few folks contact me through my blog saying they felt the doors were too long to fit well inside the opening. I have not been able to figure out what they meant, when I go study my own doors. After reading your post, now I wonder if this means they have made some changes to the kit? Some slight manufacturing change that results in a poor fit on this piece? If I have more inquiries about it, I will direct folks to this post, in case your fix is the one they need. Congratulations on completing your build. Is than an openable window you have added in the back wall?

jbest123 The door worked fine on the HFGH all last winter until I left it open all summer. As soon as I tried to close it for the first time it stuck. The tracks were clean. The two vents never worked right. Short of somehow trimming an RCH off each side they're not going to work right as far as I can see. The large 6x6s or whatever they're called can't move as they have long heavy rebars going deep into the ground and the frame is well screwed to these pressure treated beams. No trees are near the GHs. We can't add on to the Rion because the foundation thing we got from Rion is set in concrete. It would be a major construction-destruction production to remove the back of the GH to add more sections. All that concrete and the plastic foundation would have to be removed somehow without destroying the GH frame itself... never happen in my lifetime. Once a Rion is set in place (and yes, more rebar was used) I can't see how it can be added on to unless it's just "sitting" on the ground.