To thatguyo1 how old is the opener, you may not have dip switches.

The dip switches are right to the left of where all those white wires go. What is the problem you are having?

Thanks for the responses.

Everything is normal, except my remote stopped working. I installed a new battery, and no change. I'm concerned that I jostled the dip switches in the remote while changing the battery, so I want to check the switch positions before I buy a new remote; in any case, I need to know the right settings to use a new remote.

IIRC, the opener is dated 1990.

I have a Craftsman 1/2 HP opener. When I try to close the door it gets to about 6 inches off the ground and reverses back up. Then the light flashes. I thought that this would be due to blocked sensors, but the sensors are clean with a clear, steady green signal light. I can "trick" the door into closing by hitting the button as it begins to reverse to stop it, then press again to get it fully closed. I need help, please.

Good morning. I have just purchased a home. I have a 1/2 horespower Craftsman garage door opener. The previous owner was not able to program the remote. I have tried and tried to re-prgram the remote from the instructions on the back. It says to push a button and the green light will flash, but when I puch it, the green light comes on and stays on, it does not just flash, so it will not program any remotes. Also, I know it must an old garage door opener because it does not have the codes on it to program the remote. Can anyone help? I am stuck. Thanks.

If you are pressing and immediately releasing the smart/learn button on the back of the motor unit while holding the button down on your remote and the opener does not react you have a bad logic board. A new opener is your best option.

Thanks for the responses. It appears I have a dud remote.

Can you see how hard it is to follow the requests for help.

PLEASE START YOUR OWN POST. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.

How do you get two remotes to work. I have tried to go by the directions, but only one will work the other overrides the code on the other everytime. Can you help me?

I have a craftsmen garage door 1/2 hp that is not closing correctly

I though it was a sensor problem since one of the sensors did not have it's LED light.

So I went out and purchased two new sensors installed/aligned then according to the instructions strangely enough I need not see an orange light on the emitter. Both lights are currently solid green but the door will not close automatically.

If someone can help that would be great because I am sell the house and this is the only item that is not workingÂ

I am a little new to this webpage to if you reply please send a copy of your response to me via e-mail

The sensors on my garage door started to not line up... after trying to realing I took them off the track and taped them together facing eachother and put them ontop of the opener. ocassionally the cables that plug into the opener will touch eachother and my remotes don't work, but I just have to wiggle them and make sure they don't touch and it works fine.

I have a craftsman ½ hp and it is not closing correctly. I inherited it with the house, donÂt have manual, and it appears to be 1993 vintage. It has worked fine for more than a decade, but a few weeks back started to act up. I reviewed a few of the other posts here and tried the suggestions: sensors are green, ensured bolts and fittings are tight and lubricated hinges, rollers, and such. There was a similar issue: posted by GRMNJM on 8/28/05. If I hold down the wall switch it goes down. If I try the remote, keypad, or let go of wall switch it reverses and the light blinks 10 times. Any thoughts?

Check the sensors in the door. They have probably been bumped and are not pointing at one another. Make sure each one has a small light that is lit and not flickering.

I HAVE A 1/2 HP SEARS OPENER ABOUT TWO YEARS OLD. IT JUST STOPPED WORKING. SENSORS ARE YELLOW ON ONE AND GREEN ON OTHER IF YOU WALK THORUGH BEAM IT DOES NOT TURN ON LIGHTS, BUT REMOTE DOES, AND OPENER DOES NOT RESPOND AT ALL. THE PROGRAMMING LIGHT ON THE UNIT JUST BLINKS LIKE 5 OR SIX TIMES THEN GOES OFF AND THEN BLINKS AGAIN. ANY SUGESTIONS ??????

Is your door opener stuck in the open position? If so check to see if the trolley (the thing the door is hooked to) is jammed against a bolt in front of the motor unit. If so, remove the bolt and then turn the 'up limit' on the side of the motor about 3 turns in the opposite direction of the arrow printed on the cover.

I have a 1/2 hp Craftsman gdo that will work occasionally, but not always. When it works, it works from both remote transmitter and wall control. I took the cover off and noticed the capacitor got extremely hot and even saw smoke after running a few times. Do you think replacing the capacitor would fix my problem? Any help would be great.

Thanks!

Jon

I have a 1/2 Craftsmen 139.53973SRT that was here when we bought the house over 2 years ago. Had the springs replaced over a year ago and the door is easy to open when in "manual mode". On Saturday, hit the opener from the outside and heard a loud thud, the door did not open. Went inside to find out that the chain had come off the sprocket. After a couple of hours figuring out how to get the chain back on the sprocket and the sensors adjusted, looked like everything was working correctly. Door went up and down without any problems.

This morning I used the outside opener again and the same thing happened. Loud thud and the chain came off the sprocket.

Any suggestions would be most helpful.

Thanks. Mark

I have a 3/4hp Craftsmen 139.5399011 manufactured in '05. I'm looking for the wiring color order for the low voltage harness connected to the logic board. The connector has 5 colors: yellow, brown, white, purple, and grey. The connector can actually accept 6 wires so with that in mind: 4 pins, 1 space, and the other solo color. Any suggestions would be very helpful.

We just boought a new house, but the gradge door opener is not working. How can set it up to work.
Thanks

I am duplicating most of this from a prevoius post since it duplicates my problem. I have a 1/2HP craftsman garage door opener and I just replaced the large plastic gear as well as the worm gear. After putting it all back together it will not go down more than 6 inches. Even when the door is not engaged it only travels down 6 inches. I have not tried to engage the door since the instructions say to only do this when in full down position, which I cannot seem to have happen. I made sure the infered eyes are aligned (and it was working perfectly before the gear went out). I have checked all the adjustments and the up adjustment works great but the down adjustment just doesn't do anything. It is not even close to touching but the door goes back up. The lights are not blinking at all either, indicating no problem with the sensors. The error code blinks five times indicating no rpm being sensed, but as I said, everything worked before I replaced the gears and worm drive. Does anyone have a suggestion on what I can try next?

I have a 1/2 HP Craftsman garage door opener, model 139.53674SRT1. The unit will go up and down for a few seconds at a time. I have adjusted the KG for the up and down force and also the distance travelled rotary buttons on the left side of the opener. I have also verified the safety electric eyes are working and properly aligned. What could be causing this thing to be not travelling the complete distance set by the switches?

Please verify if it will go up for a few seconds or go down for a few seconds. Or is it starting down and then reversing? Post back.

The door is not attached at the moment, but the drive goes clockwise (down) about 6" (a few seconds) and then immediately reverses for a few seconds. The fault indicator light blinks 5 times. This only started to happen after replacing the gear drive and worm gear.

Thanks for the reply... the garage door will start down for a few seconds and then reverse. I checked the limit switches (left side plastic limiters) to make sure they are adjusted for enough travel and the switch doesn't even get near the bottom limit switch that should shut it off. I also have the KG for down and up adjusted to the setting of 9. Thanks for the help.

adjaeger On the front of the motor shaft there is a black plastic interruptor cup. Make sure you replaced it after replacing the gear and make sure it is pushed all the way onto the motor shaft.

tonywayne It sounds like your door sensors may not be aligned properly. Make sure they are pointed at one another and the small light on each one is lit and not blinking.

don...I did replace the interruptor cup. The only way that it could further in is if I attach the outer metal piece tighter by pushing a little more on the curved washer. It is fairly tight, but not all the way in.(..and I mean only a fraction of a mm.) There is still a slight "spring" action against the curved washer. Should I press this as tight as possible?

The interruptor cup needs to run between 2 small squares on the PC board. The "small squares" are actually an infrared sender and receiver. As long as the beam between these is continually being interrupted the motor will run until it reaches the limit switches. If that beam is not being interrupted the logic board senses the door has hit something and turns the motor off. There is a quick disconnect on that PC board with 4 wires. Make sure it is connected securely. There is also the possibility the infrared sensor has quit.

Last night i opened the garrage door and it will not go back down. The sensers are one yellow and one dead no light - cable looks ok. when try to close from outside keypad the unit just clicks, and the learn button blinks 3 times over and over.
Do you think that this could be a senser problem or a logic board problem.

The 3 blink code is for a shorted wall control. Easiest way to confirm this is to remove the wires from the wall control to the motor unit. They are connected to terminals 1 and 2. Remember which wire went where. Let me know if this helps you or if not.

I removed the wires to terminal 1 and 2
Now I get a 1 blink code?

don - Sorry, I haven't posted for a while. Inrared sensor? Is that part of the rpm sensor? I have a another exact "working" duplicate opener in the same garage on another door. I am thinking about taking the rpm sensor out of the good one and trying it in the bad. If it works, I should know that the sensor is bad. Good idea?

arik 500 a a1 blink code is if the door sensors are misaligned or the wiring is open. Did you remove more than 1 wire from terminal 2?

adjaeger, yes I meant the RPM sensor board. I can't figure out why I want to call it the infrared sensor which is misleading. Substitution with a known good one is the perfect technique.

Terminal one and two empty
terminal 3 and 4 go to sensers
Got a 1 blink code
1 senser yellow, 1 dead senser regardless of aiming
When using remote - opener clicks as if senser was triggered
Can you use the opener without the sensers?
Any ideas

Don,
Thanks for doing a great job! I have 1/2 HP Craftsman. No light on left door sensor, other one is fine. The door does not close with Remote, it goes down little and then goes up back and blinks 3 times. I checked the wires on left sensor, seems OK to me. Do I need to buy a sensor to replace the left one? If I do, is there any other store besides Sears to buy sensor?

ank 500, 1 blink code is sensors misaligned or wires bad.

newguy 234, first make sure the sensors are properly aligned. If this isn't the problem then the 'receiving unit' has probably quit working which is common. You can try your local opener service companies. I am leery of e-bay. I trust Sears more than anyone else.They are sometimes difficult but they are as honest as the day is long.

Can i operate the door w/o sensers - how about a jumper cable?

The green led light blinks 5 times and repeats its self about every second on the logic board. This started after re-program two remote controls. The operation of the garage door works fine from both remotes and wall unit,and all the senors work fine also. The unit is 130.53662SRT2 and the remotes are 139.53681B all Craftmans 1/2HP.

I have a craftsman garage opener, 1/2 hp. I replaced the remote battery..
now remote stopped working..I need to know if i have to do any settings..? Thx.

I have an old 1/2 HP Craftsman door opener. Last year one day when I pressed teh button to open the door, the opener hummed but did nothing. It behaved that way for about a day and then suddenly started working.

A year later, i.e, this week the exact same has happened. I click to open, it hums but nothing moves. I disconnected the door from the opener, still nothing moves. This opener is old enough that it has no door sensor so I know that is not causing problems.

Any idea as to what I should do? Should I just go ahead and replace it. I don't even have a users manual for it. Its from 1992. Perhaps time to replace it. Any suggestions?

My door opened all the way to the top where the silver steel bar which is pulled by the chain hit the bolt that stops the door from openning further. Now the door won't close when I press the remote, but I hear a click and the green LED at the back of the unit flashes. Is there a way of repairing the opener without replacing it? Thanks.

Hello. I am having a strange problem with my 139.18791B. Every time I try to use my remote the garage door will not open and it flashes its light twice, but it opens and closes just fine when I use the key pad or the fixed wall control. Does anyone know what is causing the problem and how I can fix it? Thanks!

I have two Sears openers vintage 1994. The two remotes on one unit quit working sporadically. The wireless keypad also quit working. I reset the remotes and they worked perfectly. I replaced the wireless keypad and it works good. With-in hours the remotes quit working and the keypad still works ok. The other opener which I did not touch also has two remotes but no keypad, I've not had trouble with it but it no longer works with it's remotes. Both units work with their wall switch Ideas??

My garage door light shorted out and blew the breaker when I rest the breaker the garage door opener will not work now just makes a clicking sound and nothing what could this problem be?

my 1992 1/2hp craftsman will not go up or down. i removed the chain from the sprocket. when i press the button on the wall unit, i hear a click and the drive sprocket moves clockwise about 1/8". i jumped across the (1 & 2) terminals and got the same result - just a click, but the motor will not run.

thanks!

The torsion springs are broken, how can I change them myself.

Hi,

My garage opener stopped working yesterday after 2 years of operation.
When I depress the remote, I hear the motor working but that is it. The gear doesnt turn to drive the chain.
The motor runs for about 1 minute and then shuts off.
The door doesnt open or shut.
Now, I am manually opening and closing it.
thanks very much for any help.

Recently, my door will not stay when down when it is closed. It will go down all the way, then go back up. The only way to keep it closed is to hit the switch just as the door starts back up, then hit it again to close it. This only works if the door is only several inches or so back up when I hit the switch.

The problem started a few months ago and happened only occassionally, I think only when it was very cold. Now it happens about every time I close it. I played with the down pressure setting, going from very light to heavy, with no luck. The opener is quite old, it preceded me in the house whihc I bought 16 years ago. But it has worked perfectly until now. I changed springs within the past 5 years. Any idea?

I have a Crafstman 1/2 HP opener that was installed when my house was built by the previous owner in 1985. Can't locate a part number anywhere on the unit and he didn't leave me an owner's manual! Two days ago, it stopped responding to the remote. It works fine with the hard-wired wall unit. I replaced the remote, matched the code switches with the old remote and verified them with the unit itself. Still no response. I figure the problem must be with the sensing element within the unit, but without a model number I can't get anywhere with Sears. Any suggestions?

Hi,

I have a craftsman 13953648srt2 and may lost my circuit board cause of a lightning but not sure.

I appear to have power to the opener and the hard wired opener buttons. But I no longer have power to the electric eyes.

Any suggestions to confirm / fix the problem?

remotes not working,key pad not working,main question is on the sensors. they are lit, but one is yellow and one is green. are they both supposed to be green?