Kohler CV730-0027 Locked up, motor won't turn.

15 years ago

Okay, before I start, I will say I have read the many posts regarding a factory problem with the head gasket on the #1 cylinder. Recently, my engine shut down after 10 minutes running. Since then, the engine will just spin over but will not start. I have gone through all of the troubleshooting materials I can find and the fuel and spark do not seem to be a problem so I decided to try a leak-down test. When I tried to line up the #1 cylinder up for the test I charged it with air (using the leakdown tester) but did not have it TDC, so I tried to turn the motor by hand to line it up but now it is completely locked up. I checked all 4 valve and they appear be okay, but I have no idea what has this motor locked up. I was on my way to troubleshooting a possible blown head gasket but now I seem to have another problem. HELP!!! :o(

Thanks for any help!

Greg

Comments (12)

tomplum
15 years ago
You didn't say what made you suspect the headgasket condition. Can you not turn the engine either direction? With both plugs pulled? Possible starter gear wedgied and locked? I have also seen the flywheel on these lose their magnets and lock into the stator. I'm hoping that you kept oil in it- as they will chuck a rod if they get run real low. Maybe you do have a rod gone bad and when you put pressure to that cylinder- you pushed the piston against the busted rod. How much more good news can you stand. . .
gregp
Original Author
15 years ago
I forgot to mention... that when I try to turn the flywheel manually (it is not completely frozen) it does move back and forth about 2 in. / hope this helps???
Thanks,
Greg
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Still guessing, but I try to add some more things to do. Do you hear anything when you crank it with the plugs out?? does it hesitate or have a hitch in the rotation when you have the plugs out?? Any hitch or hesitation will be mulitiplied with the plugs in especially if you hear any noise. things I would look for. Remove the starter and look at the bendix teeth, look at the flywheel teeth. Do a compression check (compression should be atleast around 100 PSI). this will tell you that the valve seat and valves are sealing and closing, Doing one cylinder at a time may also narrow the problem down to one or the other if the engine stops rotating when checking compression which may lead to a connecting rod problem. If you got good compression and the engine spins with plugs out and no unusual noises or hesitations and the drive belt and elect pto clutch aren't binding. Then I would suspect the starter, usually starters last quite awhile, but unless your are an electronic's expert your guessing. Starter is a high dollar item unless you find a used one or one on ebay for at least 1/2 price. Before I replace the starter I would go ove the battery cables again checking for any corossion (on the cables internally) and points of contact I would also jump across the starter solonoid to illimate that. I'm out of guesses or procedures unless you come up with something else. If it was me I would try another starter before I tore into the engine unless I found some evidents of a rotating part problem. I not that familar with V-twin Kohlers, but it still should have valve covers (usually the cover can be reinstalled using the old gasket unless you tear if when removing it) which you can remove and watch the valve action when cranking the engine with the plugs out if you have no compression in one cylinder, if you have good compression (in both cylinders) and no noises then the rotating internal part could be ilimated. I know another tool you probably haven't got, but you really have to have basic tools multi-meter, compression kit, vacuum gauge to have a chance to narrow some problems down.
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gregp
Original Author
15 years ago
Thanks for the reply, I'll try to give as much info as I can... I began to suspect the head gasket due to heavy smoke and a known problem with this particular model; I definitely believe the lockup is related to when I charged the #1 cylinder with air (I could turn the flywheel manually prior to that; the flywheel now will only turn about 2 inches back and forth; and yes, there is oil in the engine... hope this helps & Thanks!
tomplum
15 years ago
It is good that there is oil in the engine. Pulling the shroud to confirm the starter, possibly the flywheel to confirm the things from the last post is your next step. Seizing after air pressure makes me think issues are internal- but confirm external things first.
dewaynep
15 years ago
My guess is that you threw a rod. Most likely, when you charged the cylinder with the leakdown tester, you pushed the piston down the bore and it is now in the way of the broken rod, hence you can only turn the engine a couple of inches either way. It was free to turn before because the piston was at or near the top of the bore and the broken rod didn't get in the way.
gregp
Original Author
15 years ago
Today I checked the engine with both plugs removed... still the same... the flywheel turns back and forth about 2 inches and seems to stop abruptly (metal to metal stop)... having said that it looks like Dewayne is on the right track... I will probably be pulling this thing apart next week... I have downloaded the kohler service manual (never been inside a Kohler before) anything particular I should watch for???
tomplum
15 years ago
"anything particular I should watch for???"

A lucky rabbit's foot?
tomplum
15 years ago
Actually, the last one of these I had that blew had cracked the block. It's worth a look over before you tear it down.
gregp
Original Author
15 years ago
Thanks DewayneP...

I pulled the enging apart today and your guess was on the money! The engine threw a rod... the rod was then pulverized inside the engine causing catastrophic damage to the inside of the block. When I opened it I found a large handful of 1/2 inch size metal chunks strewn throughout. The oil pump was destroyed, the block at the base of the cylinder bore was missing a chuck of metal the size of a silver dollar... Nothing I can do with it... I now have to pony up $1000 for a new motor. If anyone has similar problems, I will be glad to help troubleshoot... My experience with this engine has grown ten-fold over the last couple of days. I don't wish this on anyone but will help where I can.
dewaynep
15 years ago
Glad I could help, not glad I was right. You may want to search to see if you can repower that with something else (tecumseh or Briggs) or even a used engine?
hawker1
15 years ago
I wonder why people still refer to the Koehler as the preferred engine over a Briggs? I've had Briggs all my life and never recall any problems. Upgraded to a Koehler in my GT5000 and think it's really sub par performance and then the gasket blew. Not by choice my new Gravely has a Koehler also, but I don't like it.
bushleague
15 years ago
I don't understand the new Kohlers. The head bolts stretch, you lose the head gasket, and break a rod? I just picked up a mint Cub Cadet 1018LT off of Craigslist with a CV492S (18 hp Command) and a broken rod. I pulled the engine apart and the head gasket was intact, the bore and main journal are mint, however it trashed the camshaft. At 125.7 hrs on the Hobbs I sent Kohler an email who said that they might play if I have an authorized Kohler dealer look at it. Just a thought in your case. It sounded as if they weren't hard and fast on the two year warranty.

Kohler CV730-0027 Locked up, motor won't turn.

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Kohler CV730-0027 Locked up, motor won't turn.

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