If your tractor has a vented gas cap make sure the vent (little hole in cap) is clear. If you have a sealed cap and there's a vent on the fuel tank check that.

They don't tend to put lots of fuel in the filter. If the flow is good, and the tank is vented it could be a pump. Ensure that the the little pulse tube that drives the pump is secure in the valve cover. Fuel should be fresh as well. Had you seen any water in the fuel when you ran the line?

What's the Sears 917.xxxxxx number?
Engine Model & Type?

The model # is 917.273621. Engine type is a Briggs and Stratton 24HP OHV INTEK.

Have checked the fuel cap last weekend...took it off and ran it without...same deal. Also...just checked the small hose from the valve cover to the fuel pump (mounted right above the valve cover) tight and in place..no damage.

As I just checked it.....fuel filter is now 85-90% full of fuel again.

Model is 445777
Type is 0168-E1

What I would do first is examine the spark plugs and compare them against each other for any obvious differences.
Maybe you have a head gasket starting to let go and one cylinder is getting weaker.

You could also alternately disconnect one spark plug at a time and see if the remaining cylinder seems as strong as the other.

I will give the spark plugs a check...but they were both recently replaced with its tune up. And I will try disconnecting one at a time.

Just seem to be leaning toward the pump after the last time when I let the filter fill with fuel and ran strong and smooth until the filter emptied out again. But you guys know more than I do..so I will give these things a check!!

Your observation of the filter is common of many tractors that are running just fine. It looks bad, but really isn;t.
Not saying that you don't have a fuel delivery problem, but....
Checking the cytlinders against each other is to eliminaye a weak cylinder from the picture.
IF you don't have a weak cylinder, then we know it's a problem in common to both. IF you do, it saves a lot of time chasing our tail.
For example, you could have a weak spark on one side that is adequate until the engine is under load.

Like many of the guys who try to be helpful, I don't know the answer without seeing the problem.

Many of the riding mowers seem to develop air in the fuel filter. Most of the time there is not a problem. I suppose there is air in the fuel and the filter is a good place for it to collect.

I don't know what your concept of "bogging down" means. If the engine is actually running out of fuel as you "bog down", I thing the engine would surge or perhaps misfire. Here are some ideas to check.

When the fuel line ages and becomes hard, air leaks can develop around the ends - when the clamps are. Sometimes the fuel line develops cracks and again there is another souce of air. To test a fuel pump, I attach a vacuum gauge to the end of the fuel line and start the engine. If no suction is indicated, I attach the vacuum gauge directly to the suction fitting on the fuel pump. The second test is performed with a short section of new fuel hose. I use the standard compression clamps.

Mikuni fuel pumps are now used on Briggs and Kohler. My experience is this pump is less reliable than the previous pumps manufactured by Briggs.

Get what ya mean about not wanting to chase your tail....will check them out. Like I was saying...when I take the fuel line from the tank to the filter off....fuel is free flowing..put it back on and it fills the filter up about 3/4 full and the engine runs like it did when new for about 2 passes down the lawn then starts to bog( loss of power..wants to die if trying to cut at a normal rate of speed before this started happening)...when it starts to bog, you have the common fuel filter almost empty...but like you said , this is a common thing on some mowers and never really paid attention to see if it was full all the time before this...But since it seems to run fine with a greater supply of fuel in the filter ...just keeps me thinking of supply..but like I said...you all know more than me and will check all these things out!!!

You don't need much fuel in the filter to cover the bottom of pickup tube. I just posted this pic on another topic too.

{{gwi:318620}}

OK...been awhile since I have been able to play with this...actually thought I had the problem solved by accident...but it turns out I didnt!!

I started it and took one spark plug wire off at a time....getting spark...ask me how I know!!

When I took the left side off....engine seemed not to change at all....replaced that wire...took the right side one off and it died . Which seems to say that the left side cylinder isnt firing...even though it is getting spark and listening to the exhaust you can hear the pressure being released from the cylinder as the exhaust valve opens....just sounds like air escaping...no combustion. Will have to take out the plugs...maybe switch them to opposite cylinders? But I had this problem before new plugs. Might try filling the fule filter with fuel and starting it...as I said before..it seemed to run smoother like that....then try the plug wires again...see if it is just starving the far cylinder of fuel. IDEAS??

I think if you remove the valve covers, your problem will be obvious.
Push rod is probably laying loose or in 2 pieces.
Else, blown head gasket.

Well..you were right. Took off the valve covers . Right side was fine..valves moved freely. Took off the left one and there is a bent and broken pushrod in there....weird thing was...the other pushrod was missing completely!! No pieces....no fragments or shavings..nothing!! Also...the upper valve moved freely...the lower onewont move when pushed on. Guess that means its bent or jammed or something???? So..instead of just replacing the pushrods..guess I will be taking the head off to see what is up with that lower valve.

Should be a good time....took a small engines class waaay back in high school...pretty mechanically inclined..so it shouldnt be tooo big a deal!! So...where are the cheap online places to get parts for these badboys????

Im sure I will have more questions soon.
MIKE

Look at the valve guide on the stuck valve.
Sometimes they come loose and back out, not letting the valve move (enough). Push rod bends, and gets "shortened" enough that it "disengages" from the valve train.
You can compare it to the good cylinder for reference.

You;ll want to disassemble the engine enough to remove the missing push rod.

It appears a new head assembly is about $90. Download the IPL from Briggs and Google the PN.

"Look at the valve guide on the stuck valve.
Sometimes they come loose and back out, not letting the valve move (enough). Push rod bends, and gets "shortened" enough that it "disengages" from the valve train.
You can compare it to the good cylinder for reference.

You;ll want to disassemble the engine enough to remove the missing push rod.

It appears a new head assembly is about $90. Download the IPL from Briggs and Google the PN."

OR I can give you a fix for your old one IF a loose valve guide is the problem.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at verizon dot net (put in proper format)

Will have to find some time to get on Briggs website to find the part I need. So...you are saying an entire head assembly is $90.00 (roughly). Thats not tooo bad...thought it would be more. Is that an entire assembled head ...entire valve train and related installed?? If I can get that and basically just put on a new head gasket and this new head assembly on and be done with it..thats the way I would lean to go. Of course after I find this missing pushrod...is it common for this to happen?? Sounds kind of weird to me, but dont know much about the quirks of lawn mower motors. The thing only has just over 1000 hours on it...have old mowers that are still running with no problems....but , oh well.....gotta fix it. Now just gotta find the time to find the part# on Briggs and find a place to get it!!

Thats if what you guys are saying would be a good way to go?

THANKS

MIKE

Anyone??

If you haven't the time to go to the Briggs website and download the IPL, would you have time to go to the Briggs website and download the IPL, research the repair part numbers and then fix the head yourself?

The problem seems to occur somewhat frequently, but people that don't have problems with their engine don't post asking for help. Really hard to tell what % of the time it happens.

Since you didn't post the Model & Type numbers of the engine or WHICH side, we could only guess on the part#'s.

Walt also offered help, but you have to make the effort to contact him.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/manual_and_more/

Hmmm....made post this morning showing that I went to B&S website and had found the part # that I need and that I wanted someone with experience with these parts manuals, etc. to just go double check I found the right part#. It is the left cylinder as you are sitting on the tractor ...cylinder 1 according to manual. I will repost the part number when I get home tonight or tommorrow morning. Also..the site says that everything in the frame is included in the assembly...so if I buy the complete head assembly, will it come fully assembled?

Didn't see that I had posted the Model & Type... Sometimes these threads get so long, one forgets what's already happened!:-)

792299 is the PN I see.
You'll also need a new head gasket & push rod.
Proper wrenches, feeler gauge to adjust valves.
I'd examine the other push rod for wear while you're at it.
Walt has a detailed procedure/hints/tools on a valve adjust. Email him for it BEFORE you go further.

Hey! I have a Craftsman mower with the same B&S 24 hp engine - and the same problem. B&S Intek 445777 - running 'weak', I found the right side cylinder to be only acting as an air spring - had one bent pushrod and the other is missing. It does not seem possible for the pushrod to have escaped... 149 hours on the engine... I suspect it's always run 'weakly'. Did you find your missing rod?

I see that the exhaust valve guide has 'crept' out 1/4 inch which is probably a root cause... I'm still mystified about the missing rod...

Hey Old Man Dan......Yes...I had the upper pushrod (aluminum) both bent and broken...and the lower one wasnt even there!! Except mine was on the left hand side (if your sitting on it.) There is no real place for a complete pushrod to go....Mine only has 200 hours on it, no real hard work..normal mowing and thats it. Havent found the rod yet...going to order the parts soon.

was wondering if anyone on here knows of a good place to order with in stock parts....B&S says its like a 10 day wait.

Hmmm. June 18 to July 18 = 30 days. July 18 to August16 = 29 days. 30 + 29 = 59 days. 10 days wait through B&S is too long. I'm confused. Did I somehow enter The Twilight Zone? :^)

I dont have everyday to play with this thing or deal with it....thats all. Having a job that takes 12-14 hours a day five days a week..then owning your own business that takes up most weekends, puts things like lawnmowers on a back burner and when I get a chance to deal with it..I do. I could have had someone fix it or just bought new...but I like to deal with the mechanical side of things....just like most people, I work hard for the money I make and I dont like to give it away to a repair place that wants to charge me shop rates, when I can fix it myself. So..no twilight zone...just a hard working person that doesnt have a 9-5 job.

I accept that rebuttal AND I compliment you for being an industrious person. I was just making a wisecrack at the elapsed time. You just keep slugging away at whatever pace comes available and you will see good results. Keep posting sir.

Sorry if it came off sounding kinda harsh...rereading it...kinda seems that way to me.

But..like most people here...I like to do it myself if at all possible.....

Again..sorry about that!!

One way to overcome a fuel filter problem is to replace it with a piece of copper tubing, and go mow. You won't have to worry if fuel is getting thru. You won't be able to see it, just the rubber hose!