I've been advised by nursery that strawberries can not take the full sun of the summer times here in Tucson, AZ. So I thought about building some type of dome made of sun shade netting, but do not want the garden to look like a dump. Thought of bell peppers also....

Some Random Thoughts 1. I am no expert, but as I understand design, a symetrically balanced formal garden is among the most difficult to pull off. Upkeep and maintenance become more critical because flaws are excentuated by the effort to achieve a pattern. Here's a quote from a very brief on-line article that points out some potential problems  "A view demonstrates balance if the objects in it are sited so that their visual weight is evenly distributed. Formal designs often display symmetrical balance, with the left and right sides of the view being quite identical  "The Courts is one of Wiltshire's best-kept garden secrets, known to visitors for its water features with surrounding topiary and its imaginative use of color and texture. The formal water garden is a favorite area of The Courts  Symmetrical balance dominates this view: the water garden shape is rectangular, the Siberian irises on either side anchor the view, and the pair of simple containers on formal stone pedestals in the foreground complete the symmetry. The less-formal tree borders beyond the topiary and the less-formal arrangement of water lilies keep this garden from feeling stiff. The formal water garden actually helps the viewer make sense of the space, lending a feeling of calm and serenity. "There is one word of caution if you plan to use symmetrical balance to draw attention to part of a landscape. Maintenance is critical. A formally clipped hedge, for example, can become an eyesore if a section of it dies." 2. Some comments in your original post have me wondering about this issue of maintenance. You say, "We have had a lot of disappointments in the garden"  "so that even when the rest of the property is covered in weeds and is a mess"  3. I just did a search at this forum for "formal". That may bring up further clues and suggestions that will help achieve your goal. I hope that these early morning musings prove useful in somehow stirring your creative juices. Not sure they'll be of any help at all, but thanks for getting me thinking, too. Wellspring

Gravel or coarse sand added to an entire planting area can help to improve drainage because it introduces spaces in between the soil particles for water to penetrate, but it takes quite a lot to have much of an effect. And it needs to be fully incorporated into the soil to a significant depth, not applied as a layer. The accepted horticultural convention is that organic matter (i.e. compost) is preferred for this purpose, as its decomposition over time improves soil fertility and structure in addition to increasing the pore space. The incorporation of the gravel or compost into the entire planting area is the same theory behind not amending individual planting holes - amending creates situations of different soil structure adjacent to each other - this impedes root development as well as water penetration. It's called soil interface issues and if your "landscaper" is self-taught or long out of school, he may not be familiar with the both the theory and the current practices. Establishing a border of drain rock at the front base of the wall where it meets the lawn (or whatever) should help to reduce the wading pool effect. It is a pretty common application here with heavy, poorly draining NW soils and if deep and wide enough, relatively effective. It can even have the appearance of a dry stream bed (or mostly dry) and become part of the garden aesthetic as well as being a highly functional application.

What several have already said about digging up the plants in fall, removing the weed fabric, and adding soil/amendments as needed ... after correcting the drainage issue if necessary. Did water pool there before? If so, might there be compacted soil or a clay hardpan? You'll have to break through this to improve drainage. Also, since you're adding soil on the other side of the walk, make sure you're not going to be directing water towards your house. Fall is actually the best time to plant. The air is cooler, the sun's rays weaker, putting less demand on the plants, but the soil is still warm, so encourages root growth. With very few exceptions, plants (whether annuals, perennials, shrubs, vines, trees ... whatever) should always be planted at the same depth at which they had been growing. Their roots have developed at the proper depth to provide the water, oxygen and nutrients the plant needs. Changing the soil level will, at best, stress the plant, at worst, kill it. (Tomatoes are one notable exception. Since they have an abundance of adventitious buds in their stems that will produce roots, you can bury a goodly portion of the stem when planting, to encourage a larger root system.)