Wayne, thank you very much for the specifics. What is the fertilizer that you use? And is the higher octane one also organic? I've read that non organic potato production is significantly higher than organic. And what you said about not making too high a ridge -- I've been hilling twice and ending up with a high, dry hill. Sounds like not the best idea? I am in a cool climate -- hardly even got up to 80 this past summer Slimy -- very interesting about the Ph. Since the nutrients are more available at higher Ph, then I'll go ahead and keep things in the 6's ltinton -- speaking of deep vs shallow: as I dug the rest of the quack grass out of the potato bed today I realized what one of my big problems was this year: shale bedrock less than a foot down. Note to self: don't ever use that section of the garden for potatoes again! additional question: a lot of my loss of "poundage" this year was because something ate pieces of many of the potatoes under ground -- either voles or slugs or rolly polly bugs, not sure which. Any suggestions to prevent this? (other than Juicy Fruit Gum in the vole holes).

A few thoughts; the Harbor Freight 4mm twinwall polycarbonate panels (made in China) are lower quality than twinwall polycarbonate you would buy from a greenhouse supplier. They don't seem to have UV protection. I have a HFGH 10x12 and my panels last 3-4 years here in the sunny south before they deteriorate (I am replacing them.) Most twinwall poly from greenhouse supply places has an approximate 10 year warranty and one side is treated for UV protection. Single pane glass will lose the heat much more quickly on cold nights than twinwall poly, so you might save on panel cost, but you might also then be having to pay more to heat your greenhouse. This heating calculator might be helpful in comparing the performance of different greenhouse materials: Heat Loss Calculator For my two cents, I'm wondering how much you can depend on adequate heat being gained into the greenhouse through your house exterior wall, but others will probably have better insight on that question. The idea of storing water in black barrels for heat mass gets mixed reviews in this forum; many folks say that it's not effective, especially in small greenhouses, where space is better used for plants. I've read that the heat stored in the water can help raise the greenhouse temperature for a while, but by the critical coldest hours before dawn, the heat benefit has been lost. You might seek out archived threads on this topic (just giving you a heads up.) I have not purchased the HF vent openers, but I recall that past posts here have not been very positive about the quality. My guess is your idea of spending more to buy better ones might be a wiser move. From a cosmetic point of view, I'd think your carpentry skills would allow you to build an attached structure that would look more like an actual improvement to the house than attaching the HF structure. It would allow you to install a more traditional door, too. My Harbor Freight sliding doors work OK for my purposes, but if you'll scan the archives here, you'll find that some folks don't like them in winter weather (the tracks can fill with ice and freeze shut if conditions are right.) This has only happened once to me during a record winter storm, but I live in a warm climate.

kudzu is right. For $550.00, you could buy the hangars, treated 2 x 4's and penetrating oil stain to seal it, then erect a very sturdy GH frame, perhaps along the lines of one of those gambriel garden sheds, then cover it over with heavy plastic until you dig up some additional scratch to replace the plastic with polycarb and in the end, have a very nice little GH that would out-perform and outlast an HFGH by miles. Maybe not all so little either. If you have space for it, build it at least 8 X 16, to take full advantage of standard lengths of lumber. Make your sidewalls at least 6 ft. high with a 12 ft. peak and you will have the means to beat the worst of all GH issues- the summer heat that can turn a small, low roofed GH into an oven.

I've learned that some shade for my produce plot is very important. I am a California gardener turned New Mexican. My gardening skills have been seriously challenged since I made the move to NM! Trees also mitigate the wind factor; I live on a mesa in central NM. This morning I began an experiment with branches from Santolina plants, to see if they will repel the beetles which kill off my squash plants. I pruned the Santolina and distributed the branches amongst the squash plants. I sure hope it works, because there is an army of grey colored beetles dong damage in the garden. I have three Santolina planted in a large bed of strawberries. The Santolinas got rid of the beetles which used to infest the strawberries. The marigolds seem to help repel ants. I have marigolds growing throughout my produce plot. The flowering plants which I've had good success with here are: roses (if they get some shade), dianthus, snapdragons, hollyhock, moss roses, honeysuckle, chrysanthemums, sunflowers, Maximillian sunflowers, yarrow, hibiscus, marigolds, Texas bluebells, creeping Veronica, plumbago, salvias, cosmos, bachelor buttons, penstemons, catmint, hummingbird mint and scabiosa. (Maximillians and yarrow are invasive plants. One has to plant them where it is okay for them to spread.) I am also growing blueberry bushes, strawberries, a couple of grape vines, asparagus, artichoke, summer squash, watermelon, cantaloupe, lima beans, bush beans, arugula, thyme, mediterranean oregano, basil, green chilies, corn, shallots, onions and garlic. I hope to do beets, chard, winter squash and kale for a fall crop. I have two young almond trees, which are doing well.