If I sold greenhouses I would do the same thing too a few times. Then look at how, and why it failed. It is the only way you can find out how your product fails in the real world. Hey software companies release their stuff to "beta testers" If they learn nothing more than to add a warning "this product will not withstand gusts of more than 40mph" it is worth the field trial.

I lost 2 panels before I posted a fix earlier this site. I ended up buying a lexan panel at Lowes, that are thinner and way more costly than the original. Since it was only a temp fix and had to be done, I paid the price. After drilling 1/8" holes 1 foot from the bottom and top (on the vertical supports), I threaded a 12.5 gauge galvanized wire (TSC) thru the holes in a horizontal fashion. Curled the ends over at each corner. Repeated the procedure for the front, back and top sides. Used a single self tapping screw in the vent window. Winds since then have not bothered the HFGH. I checked the prices for replacement panels, and if you order nearly any quanity, the base price is high and then you have to add in extra shipping and possibly a crate charge, which makes the whole deal too much for each panel. Figuring everything all together, it is just cheaper to first secure the panels with the method I mentioned above. If you have lost a panel(s), then order another kit when they are on sale. My first HFGH was $299 + $20 Ship. The second one was $329 + $62 to ship. That is still cheaper than ordering any panels from anyone. Plus I have extra parts forever, to - add-on, repair, replace, etc. As far as a base for my unit. I used 2 ea 4x4's PT stacked. Used the PT wood to allow the base to be leveled, with 1 to 1.5 PT showing above ground. At the corners and mid-long side, I sank a 4x4 PT down 2 feet in the ground, anchored with 1 bag of concrete in each of the 6 holes. All the base is bolted together with carrage bolts. On top of the base plate, I screwed in a 2"x7'x1/4" Poly Trim that is used around garage overhead doors. Use a sealer between the poly trim and the PT wood to stop leaks. It won't rot. Then I used stainless steel screws (2"#10) every 6 inches to fix the alum base to the poly trim and PT 4x4's. Everything else is per HFGH Instructions. Then I topped it off with the reinforcement I mentioned above. In the center of this frame, I tamped Stone paver sand and rock base, topped with 24"x24"x2" colored concrete blocks. There is a 60W Solar Panel 15 feet away that runs the fan in the greenhouse to help keep it cooler. It helps.

Update on January 1 (Happy New Year folks!) in response to a question by Baileybear in another thread... I wanted to add a photo of how we added a drape of Aluminet shade cloth to the interior roof. I think the Aluminet is probably more effective on the outside of the greenhouse, but I knew the wind would be a constant battle here, so we're trying it inside first. First we attached a 10' steel tube to the inside of the roof peak. (We had a piece of stainless tubing sitting around, but EMT would work fine.) My husband formed three hook shapes by doubling a length of plumbers strap (that flat metal strapping with holes) and bending it into a hook shape. Then he removed the nut from one of the bolts at the peak, slipped the hook in place, and replaced the nut. You can see the hook in the center of this photo, holding the bare rod. I laid the Aluminet cloth out flat in the yard, then folded it in half, and slid the rod into the fold. I secured the Aluminet to the central rod with wire twisty ties about every foot. (Classy, huh.) Then we carried the whole thing into the GH and hung it on the three roof hooks. (You have to make little holes in the Aluminet to poke the hooks through.) After securing the sides, it looks like this: On each side, we wrapped the Aluminet around another 10' piece of EMT tubing. If I decide to keep this set up, I'll put a hem in the shadecloth to slip the tubes in. Since this was a "temporary" experiment, we just rolled the edge of the Aluminet around the rod until it was taut, and secured it with more twisty ties and baling wire. The rod was then anchored to the top of the greenhouse wall with baling wire, looped around the bolts on our three central EMT ceiling braces, because they were handy. (The EMT ceiling braces are the three horizontals you see in the lower part of the above photo.) I just cut a small slit in the Aluminet so I could stick my hand through to operate the roof vents. The Aluminet does not unravel when you do this (it's cool stuff.) So far I like it. If I want less shade, I can unfasten the rod on the south side and slide it all the way across the greenhouse to the north side, riding along the tops of our three central EMT braces. That way the south side of the roof is fully exposed to sun, and the north side of the roof has two thicknesses of shadecloth in place. Although, I haven't done it very often...I'm learning that sunny days even in December can heat up the GH so fast that I just leave the roof shadecloth in place...but that may be a quirk of our desert climate, and I'm still experimenting. One more update...because of the cold nights, I have all of my poly panels back in place on the south side. But, I figured out I can put the screens back in place OVER the poly panels by holding them in with clips installed backwards. Looks silly, but it provides just enough snugness to keep my screens in place. I've also made a triangular piece of Aluminet to go over the inside west gable, over my doors. I just cut it to size, hemmed it by hand, and it's attached with velcro to the aluminum frame. Our west sun is brutal even in late afternoon, especially in summer. I can take a photo if it would help anyone. If any of this is unclear, let me know. That's where I am so far in my learning curve! Sheri

Shelf supports: 2 2x4's set on edge (8 feet long) supported in a "sandwich" of 2 2x4's 32" high at either end of the HFGH. This brings the great covered grating exactly to standard kitchen counter height. Shelves are easily removed in 2 four foot sections. I used untreated 2x4 because with the plastic drip pans underneath we can let excess water drain off - and I did not want the chemicals in treated wood dripping on any plants we might set below. We have the 2 6' greenhouse benches that HF sells for the 6x8 HFGH as well. They are "spares". Insulation: Exterior panels are simply wedge fit. They have been in daily on/off use for over a month and are working perfect even in 20-30 mph wind. Our HFGH is protected by a Northside 8' fence and the house. Interior insulation. North wall, bottom - wedge fit 4x8 insulatin trimmed to (I think) about 44 inches tall. North wall ceiling - the extra bolts you are instructed to add in some of the Garden web HFGH construction posts are simply popped through the insulation at the ridge rafter. Bolts: The underside of the roof rafters has a track in it. If you ever want to hang plants inside, during construction you need to slide a nut with abolt attached down that channel before assembling the roof rafter to the ridge and side walls. We used 2" x 13/16 eye bolts which will take the hooks from most hanging baskets. These eye bolts are popped through the insulation and turned 90 degrees to the face of it - hold it up fine. For "personal or detailed responses" please include your personal email - it is a pain finding this thread on Gardenweb! Hard to add photos to the photobucket series as doing so will knock the logical order of the slides all to simthereens Happy thanksgiving Steve & Kathy Wisconsin