I have this one on the front arbor. At less than a year it's about eight feet, after a slow start. I think this is the one known as the legendary "Flores Street" house eating rose in San Antonio, where it has literally covered an abandoned home on Flores Street.

The link will take you to a photo of that situation.

I don't have any information on response to severe pruning.

MichaelAT

Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.ph-rose-gardens.com/rr_floresstreethouseeater.htm

Hmmmm.....Brightside Cream is gorgeous, but most likely not a candidate for rebar. Fortunately, since it hasn't gotten very large in the pot (yet), I probably have a little time to come up with a suitable structure, and an area for it.

I wouldn't severely prune her, but I would try to tame it a smidge each spring if it got really out of shape.

Any ideas are most welcome. For some reason I have the hardest time trying to figure out how to landscape with climbers.

Sandy

So -- I've had people who know it tell me that the "Flores St. House-Eater" is likely 'Lamarque.'
So -- is "Brightside Cream" likely 'Lamarque'????

Jeri

I'm kind of hoping Malcolm Manners will chime in. Some of these old beauties sure weave a tangled web! It'd be neat if Brightside Cream is the real Lamarque.

Sandy

I've never heard anyone suggest, til this thread, that BSC may be some other rose. Are you sure of that, Michael?

We grow it (on 'Fortuniana' roots) on a big trellis, 8' high by 8' wide, with a 2.5' overhang, with a garden bench underneath. One plant will comfortably cover such a structure in a couple years. While I suppose one could grow almost any rose unsupported, this is not one that I would try that with. Everywhere I've ever seen or grown it, it has been climbing some other structure or plant. It does not seem to mind fairly hard pruning, at least in cooler weather.

Thanks Malcolm.

I do not grow Brightside Cream, but I have seen it. (At CoOR)
I recall wondering if it would open here -- and I don't recall thinking it looked like Lamarque.

Jeri

Well, no I'm not sure at all.

I see the consensus over at the other forum is LaMarque with a smattering of "not Lamarque" thrown in.

I'm merely going by what is posted at Joe Cooper's site, a brief summary of his discussion with Marion Brandes but I also see that they left the issue open for development.

So Lamarque it is.

Now would that be the "California" Lamarque or the "Eastern" Lamarque, or am I thinking of something altogether different? Just curious.

At any rate, apologies.

MichaelAT

Thanks everyone for your responses. Malcolm, the growth dimensions you gave me are extremely helpful. It sounds like a nice size climber, not too small and not too overwhelming.

Sandy

Sandy, I smelled it once (hmmm!) at Seminole Springs Rose Farm and almost bought it, but I got Tausendschon instead. I totally regret that choice. By now Brightside Cream would be well up on my rebar arbor and ready to go gangbusters. As it is, Tausendschon is about to be SP'd and a replacement sought. Maybe I'll go back to my first choice. (I sound depressed about it, don't I? If only I'd gone with my first choice!)

Thanks for posting this.

Sherry

Sherry, I'd say try another Tausendschoen. I'd choose it ANY day over BSC or just about any other climber. Astounding vigor, flowers from December to June, with heavy flowering February through April, virtually blackspot-proof, and will do on its own roots here. It does get mildew, but that's about its only down side, IMHO.
Malcolm

Malcolm, I guess I'm easily confused. I thought Tausendschon was a once bloomer (though was told it repeated when I bought it.) It's been in my yard for a year+, and it was flowerless from last May or June till last month. Also, I have alkaline soil - at best neutral PH and in places white chalky soil & limestone rocks. It turned solid yellow in the fall and stayed mostly naked until last month. Still is about a third bare. A friend said her year old T was as big as a plumber's truck. Mine is skinny, maybe a half dozen canes, some to 10'. I just think it's very unhappy. I'm ignoring it until new noisettes get big enough to plant.

If you can suggest a path to a cure, my DH will love you as it's his favorite rose. (I must say he has very limited rose experience!)

Thanks, Malcolm.

Sherry

Sherry, maybe you just got a dud. After what Malcolm said about Tausendschon, it makes me want to get one. Maybe you should try another, from another source?

I am not very good at figuring out how to incorporate climbers into my rose garden. I wish I could find more information on it. The trellises I have near the walls of my house were no-brainers, but I am out of sunny walls. I know there's just got to be a way to figure out structures and placement - I'm just not insightful enough I guess.

Sandy

Sandy, I had another brainstorm the other day - a rose tunnel for my side yard which is 8.3' wide!! Since it's the west side I didn't want roses against the house, and there's not a lot of room to put a sizable bush closer to the property line and still be able to walk by. So I thought 2 or 3 4-ft wide arbors with noisettes on them would make a lovely sight and be in the sun longer. Not sure if they should be planted on my side or the neighbor's side. Until the growth is up & over the arbor the plant will be in shorter sun planted on my side, but planted on the other side the top growth will be growing toward the shorter sun. Probably the neighbor's side would be better. Almost got a great buy on arbors at Tuesday Morning this week but they were flimsy. This isn't a project for next week, but I definitely want to do it. I think it will be very cool.

Sherry

Sherry -- sounds like you may have answered your own question -- yellow leaves, alkaline soil -- you could fix that! Acidify the soil with ferrous sulfate (a.k.a. iron sulfate or copperas) -- mix about a Tbsp per gallon in a bucket and wash in a couple gallons. Wait a couple days and measure the pH. If not as low as you want it, repeat the procedure until you get to under 7.0. Be careful with the stuff -- it oxidizes to make rust stains on sidewalks, cars, your new shoes, etc. If you get it on anything, rinse it off before it turns color.

You can then maintain the lower pH by applying around a cup of sulfur (agricultural sulfur, flowers of sulfur, wettable sulfur, etc.) around the plant and scratching it into the top inch or so of soil.

Yes, Tausendschoen is once-blooming. But the "once" is up to 7 months. Once the night temps get warm, it quits, and doesn't start again until we cool off. So we get no flowers June to December, usually. But when it flowers, it is continuous.

Thanks, Malcolm. Is Ferrous Sulfate liquid or dry? I have some liquid iron. I'll have to check if that's what it is. How often can you apply the cup of sulfur, i.e., does the PH stay lowered or will it revert back to the native PH? I've used "soil sulfur" before in an area close by. Either I didn't use enough (directions said not to overuse) or I need to repeat more often because I finally had to move the azaleas. Does Tausendschon need as low a PH as azaleas?

Thank you for your help.

Sherry

Sherry,

I put in a rose tunnel, and, so far, I love it. It's going on three years now. But, knowing now what I didn't know then, I would try a slightly different structure. Here's what I would do.

Get 20 ft sections of 3/4 " rebar (I think...or it may be only 1/2") professional bent at a 5ft diameter to form arches. Pound 5 ft steel pipes into the ground 2 ft deep. Slide the rebar arches into the pipes in a criss cross fashion, and secure the "cross" at the top with wire.

I made some arches like this, and they cost around $50 per structure, took about 5 minutes to install, and seem VERY sturdy.

In my rose tunnel, I bent the rebar myself...so it's not anywhere near symmetrical..and I drove the rebar directly into the ground about 18 inches. The arches are less sturdy and less tall. I can see myself gradually cutting back the roses, removing the old rebar, and re-doing the structure in time.

Robert

That's good information, Robert. It's always nice to have someone go ahead of you and scout out the territory. I appreciate your experience and your sharing the results. How many arches do you have in your tunnel, and how far apart did you place them? Oh, and how far apart did you place the 2 rebars in each structure?

Thanks so much.

Sherry

Sherry, Your liquid iron is NOT likely the right stuff. It provides iron but may not lower pH, which is the primary problem. Ferrous Sulfate is a powder which you dissolve in water. A cup of elemental sulfur may last 3-5 years, depending on your soil.

Thanks, Malcolm. Sorry I don't know my minerals very well. I'll try to find the Ferrous Sulfate. Good to know that the elemental sulfur is long lasting.

Sherry

Malcolm, is Sequestrine 330 Fe the same as the ferrous sulfate you are talking about? It is a powder that is mixed with water and my bag says it is iron chelate with micronutrients and that it corrects slighly acid or alkaline soils.

I have a couple of roses potted in clay pots and the leaves look terrible right now. I'm guessing they don't like something about the terra cotta.

Sandy

Well, I ordered 1 lb. of Ferrous Sulfate, and while I was at it I got some great deals on Cannas (dwarf & tall), Shasta daisies, daylilies, Coneflowers and a lot of free stuff. Including a one-cent sale. If anyone wants to check out this site, here it is.

Sherry

Here is a link that might be useful: Direct Gardening in Illinois

I have this one in my garden, and have forgoten the name until running across this post. I love it! It does great in my Georgia garden with only about 5-6 hours of direct sun. It has grown bigger than I thought and I am buying a set of three rose arches to turn it into a little allee.

Harriet