I live in northern Indiana Z5 It is hard to see in the picture but on the right side of the box with the toggle switches is a dual contact thermostat and it controls two electric heaters. Next to the left is a thermostat that is set two degrees cooler and it is connected to the heat lamps. Next one is for the ceiling fan. Next one to the left is the Exhaust fan. The small thing in the left end reads temp and humidity. The toggle switches control on off of the grow lights and heat mats and things in the little GH in the corner. The grow lights are on a timer but it is wired through a switch so that it can not turn on the lights if I don't want them on because the switch must be on for them to work. That way I don't need to reset the timer if I turn them off for any reason. One switch starts a pump and I have a small hose with a wand and a push button on the end and my wife just pushes the button to start the flow and it pumps water from rain barrels for watering the plants. Everything can be set for total automation if we are going to be gone for the day.

Marcie, your question came at a very fortuetous time.. I just today finished installing screens on my Clearspan Prostar 12x24 Ghouse. I too was baffled on how to do so until I visited my local LOWE"S store. They have this porch creening "system" that I found fits the bill just fine. it is a plastic "profile" about inch and a half wide with two channels to hold the screening and the spline. The instructions in the link below shows an installer using wood screws to attattch to a porch BUT I had very good luck using selftapping sheet metal screws (#10-3/4") to attach the system to the aluminum frame of my intake vent( which is aluminum ) the system also includes cap strips of assorted colors to cover the screws. System also works best with the .175 inch screen spline. Here is a link that might be useful: porch screening how to at Lowes

I've built a shelving system along the back wall which makes it extraordinarily strong--it doesn't bow-in at all anymore where it previously moved 1/2 to an inch in a typical South wind. I used 3/4" galvanized pipe for the vertical supports, and 3/4" EMT conduit for the horizontal supports, which for the front-edge of the shelves pass-thru the galvanized cross- and tee-fittings, whose threads had to be ground-down just a little so the conduit would slide-thru. I'm real happy with the way it came together--the trickiest part was getting the installation "staged" properly: 1. Grind-out threads in the fittings for the side-to-side conduits 2. Make the two vertical posts (floor flange, 36" pipe, cross, 18" pipe, cross, 18" pipe, tee) 3. Flatten one side of three 10' conduits, thread these thru fittings and posts 4. Flatten other side of 3 conduits, drill holes, put assy into place, secure sides and floor flanges 5. Weld "L" brackets into one end of short (22 1/2") conduits (twelve of these) 6. Screw short conduits into each fitting and rotate into place 7. Cut cattle panel (2"X4" mesh) and wrangle into place from the side (having taken a side panel out temporarily) Look for "Details" in my photo link below. I think I'm done now with structural issues of the HFGH. Still have to build a potting bench, and we've been shocked to learn how hot the thing gets (over 100 degrees inside in 75deg sun out). So we have to do an exhaust fan/louver intake plus prolly some shade cloth. But the GH seems strong enough now that we shouldn't have to worry about it blowing-down, though the roof vents seem to twist a lot when open and it's windy--may have to make some further mods there. Here is a link that might be useful: Our 10X12 HFGH with Details

Hello treed1304, I wanted to let your post sit for a few days, in case others might pop up here with a solution to the vent window problem. I had the same problem with the vent windows on my HFGH. Even in the most "closed" position, the windows could be lifted open just a bit. I was not able to find a good solution, and the orientation of my GH is so that the prevailing winds loved to pick up the vents that small fraction of an inch, then let them bang down again. Bang bang bang. Too often. I was worried that this would lead to a problem at 3AM when I was not there. Failing a brilliant fix, I finally gave up and wired the latches shut with baling wire. A few years ago, when we replaced our roof panels, I removed the vent windows entirely. I was only able to do this because I replace my south wall with screens all summer, and I use an exhaust fan to pull air through the open doors during daylight hours (through a curtain made of Aluminet.) Otherwise, I would not have been able to give up the venting. I think this annoying problem is present with most of the HFGH kits. Maybe, it's worse for some of us, depending on wind direction. So far, nobody had posted to my blog or here with a good fix. It's possible that equipping the windows with hydraulic automatic openers will resolve this problem. I never tried this, but I've read here that the automatic openers sold by Harbor Freight don't work well (or, for most, don't last long.) I'd try some of the other brand auto openers instead...by Bayliss, for example...after doing more research. Maybe...some brilliant person will show up here with a better solution (hope springs eternal...) Looking forward to seeing pics of your project!