I just finished mine and suggest you take hints suggested on this site (and others if you Google HF Greenhouse.) Mandatory if you want it to go well: 1. level and square up the foundation many times as you go along. The long sides tend to buckle and twist as you assemble it so also check straightness (with a taunt string.) Buy or borrow an 8' ladder-you need it for the high work. 2. Order those extra clips early-they ship quickly and you absolutely need them. We ordered extra clips from Harbor Freight, 130 for $10.95, item no. 29457. TheyÂre not available online, and so far are not carried in our local store, so you have to call 1-800-444-3353.(shipping cost $7 and took one week for mine) 3. Plan on reinforcing the frame with EMT conduit-its cheap and adds a lot of stability. There are many suggested ways but belly-band the sides and the roof trusses. 4. Plan on reinforcing the header over the door-it sags and binds the door. I used 1" square alum tubing-got a 11' length for $18 at a local steel mill. 5. Do screw the plexiglas to the frames- I used galvanized screws with rubber reinforced washers. Most suggest stainless steel but I couldn't find them locally and couldn't find technical data (other then amature opinions) demanding stainless. 6. Do tape the edges of plexiglass with perforated tape from greenhouse vendors. I got mine installed before I realized that need, and will be removing and redoing panels all summer. Its quick and easy to do before installing-kick me. It keeps out bugs and slows the green mold along the edges. Do keep us informed as you proceed-I found the advise from others absolutely necessary to get mine up. By the way I did it 100% by myself and I am a healthy 70 year old-

Vicki, tell your hubby not to be such a nitpicker. The guy who levels the area can go a little bit over sized, and then it can be taken care of when you back fill to the size of the foundation. As far as the need for a true foundation, it looks like to me that this GH does not really require it. My recommendation is, unless you want to put it onto a poured concrete or laid concrete block foundation (which might require you to have a building permit) just dig holes at the corners, and about every two to three feet along the sides (on the inside) and set treated wood posts at least three feet deep. Then attach your treated two by eight base frame to it. I don't have one of these GH's yet, but hopefully someone who does will send you the dimensions from thiers. If not, open the box and find the instruction sheet. (If worse comes to worse, you may have to measure your base plates. I've bought Harbor Freight stuff in the past, and know first hand how "good" thier instructions are.) Kevin

Harbor Freight did not suggest this. Lets just say that Harbor Freights Tech support was, um Harbor Freight... I have to admit it was nice, they Cross shipped me new ones, which performed the same as the old ones. I found an overseas manufacturer of similar "budget vents", I think they were called Thermofor, who was very helpfull, and gave me a suggestion. I unscrewed the endcap that has the adjustment screw, and press the plunger till the seal almost comes out, then the oil will start to leak if you press softly on the plunger (If I pressed hard the seal comes all the way out, and you get a big mess ;) then close the whole thing and test. THrough trial and error, I now have all five of my HF openers opening between 65 and 75 degrees. Gato, I am not sure why mine did not work, and yours did, I am only 1300 feet higher than you, but I had a Total of ten from HF (The first five and the second five). Even at 38 degrees they were open five inches under load before I modified them ;) I would not recomend that anyone else try this, because I am sure it voids the warranty. (I tried it on just one first, then got bolder and tried the rest. I did spill all the oil out of one, and I replaced the oil with Cooking oil, even this one is now working ;) so I guess I will have to wait and see if opening them is gonna cause any long term ill effects.

Thanks Pat and Nancy! Gardenerwantable, sorry the pic isn't clear. Yup, the punch-outs for the cords to pass through are already out, no problem there. (And I know just what you mean about the option of mounting it 90° and having two punch-outs.) The problem isn't where the cords go, it's the plugs themselves, and it's only because these two have to be piggy-backed together. My thermostat isn't hardwired into the fan. It's designed so you first plug the thermostat into the outlet, and then you plug the (fan, heater, whatever) into the back of the thermostat plug. So, the two plugs are piggy-backed together. The two plugs together are almost 5" long, but the clear bubble cover on these in-use outlet covers is only 2 1/2 to 3" deep. One plug by itself works great (cover closes and it looks lovely.) Two big plugs piggybacked together, no go! I'm still thinking. Jack, thanks for your concern. You are right about electricity and water. All of our wiring is protected in 3/4" conduit, with GFCI outlets and (the ill-fitting) in-use outlet covers to be as safe as possible. You might be seeing the heavy cords of the fan and thermostat, which will be secured with plastic cable ties as soon as I figure out where the thermostat should live. I am far too chicken to have loose wires running about! I think Gardenerwantabe's ceiling fan blades just have a relaxed attitude toward life, which is a goal of mine. :-)