I grow quite a few things under tall old spruce. Hostas, ferns, bleeding heart, Northern Lights azaleas, ninebark. Nothing that holds its leaves, for sure, but the ninebarks are at the interesting multi colored shreddy bark stage - which to me is just as good. Largely, winter interest under 5 or 6 feet of snow here is a non starter. I (or someone) would have to get on a ladder and clear out those gutters - pines definitely do litter. But the needles are useful spread around garden beds like mulch.

as a hosta gardener ... here are my thoughts under old trees .. just a list.. dont take it as editorial ... never till... dig only holes needed [the least amount of root cutting] ... and plant in what you dug out ... native soil.. and near bare root the plants ... cut roots.. reply by making more.. more aggressive ... feeder roots and invade planting holes.. and can chole out the plants you want ... always broadcast water.. never water just the plant.. else where do you think the tree will put all those new feeder roots ... same logic with ferts ... lawnsprinklers.. will NEVER water deep enough to moisten soil under such.. unless you have a specific zone for such;.. and run it for hours on end.. and dig holes.. to find out if and when you have water to at least 3 inches deep.. and then you water to maintain said moisture at that depth ... presuming that is where the roots of the plant you are putting there are ... a little surface moisture will not help a plant get 'established' i would have used round up to kill the grass.. rather than shaving off the first 2 or 3 inches of roots ... see above as to why .. new feeder roots ... well.. thats what i can think of off the top of my head ... you can grow things there ... but figuring out.. how to keep a transplant watered.. until it can compete.. is how you are going to win ... many things can handle drought.. but dont forget.. its the planting.. the time to get 'established' .. that dictates how successful you are ... you might have to water the grasses.. every week especially during the heat of summer.. in the year of planting... and maybe next year.. in drought .. and THEN.. they will become rather bulletproof ... the usual rule is.. insert finger.. and find out when they need water.. rather than relying on a schedule ... or an automated system ... good luck ken

Any of those pines would certainly grow here. Longleaf isn't common, but loblolly is commonly planted, and shortleaf and Virginia pine are common volunteers. Why would you recommend any of the others over loblolly? I was thinking loblolly mainly because I thought it grew the fastest, but also because I've seen managed stands of lolbolly that look exactly like what I'd want. Looks aren't my first priority, but I mostly think of Virginia pines as terrible-looking trees.

There are actually quite a few to choose from for Northern Climates. Evergreens include many arborvitae but Techny 'Arborvitae'is the most shade tolerant. They really won't grow that much so buy the height you need and be sure to feed and water these ones. For Taxus you can include Hicks Yew, Capitata Yew, Cuspidata Yew, Taunton Yew. Although they are slow growing, they are tough as nails. Buy them as big as possible. Or try Canadian Hemlock but make sure you can keep the soil moist especially during the 1st month after planting. For Deciduous shrubs you could choose, Witchhazel, Redbud, Pagoda Dogwood, Winterberry, Viburnum Dentatum, Viburnum lantana, Viburnum lentago, Viburnum trilobum, Euonymous alatus 'Chicago Fire' or Tures, Kerria japonica, Northern Bayberry, Snowberry, Clethra, Gray Dogwood, Aronia Chokeberry and Amur maples. All of these will tolerate shade very well but will grow in a more open habit, have less flowers and less fall color. Plant in layers to create the desired screening. Karl