Most types aren't cold hardy here in Austin unless you're in the central part of town or near a large body of water. That said if you REALLY want one you could appropriate a few cuttings from the one pictured and try rooting them for your self. If they root I'd keep them indoors the first Winter during any freezing weather and back out when it warms up. Plant them out their second Summer and cross your fingers.

Dwarf fothergilla do best in sunny areas -- I've mine ('Beaver Creek') sited on Western exposure and they bloom in spring with white bottlebrush flowers. They are deciduous so no evergreen look in winter. For shade I can suggest Japanese andromeda-- 'Valley Valentine' is a nice pink to rose 'Lily of the Valley' shaped flowers and with some pruning you can keep it within bounds of the window. It is an early spring bloomer and evergreen after that. May need some soil acidifier to take up fertilizer done once a year. If you want summer blooming plant try Hydrangea macrophylla 'Strawberries and Cream'- it blooms on new and old wood. It is deciduous. The pink color remains true regardless of soil pH. The photo below is from 2011 and the white flowered plant on the far right next to the hollies is 'Beaver Creek' dwarf fothergilla. The yellow plants are Alyssum 'Basket of Gold' since removed as they tend to self seed as you can see. On the very left edge of the photo is another 'Beaver Creek' fothergilla. Taken in May/April.

I have grown/grow all the ones mentioned here except Desmond tutu and Kardinal. My fave: Valentine, my least fave and don't miss: Europeana b/c of wicked thorns but definitely a sturdy, low maint. Easy red rose. I live in humid Houston and my success is based on planting in the absolute dryest areas of my garden. When a rose displayed BS in the first season they were planted, it usually meant they were being hit too often by sprinkler (in additional to humidity) and declined quickly despite BS potions. I learned to yank them out the minute they displayed BS as it was a losing battle for me and given the amount of time I wanted to devote to them (not much) Of the ones mentioned above by various posters, non exhibited BS.

Thank you both. Ken, many of the answers you're seeking are in my original post ;-) but here again, plus the details you requested: Z6A (south of Cleveland) Purchased a week ago at a local nursery (not a big box store). The plant has the nursery's branded tag and they grow much of their own inventory. We had late freezes and frosts and this shrub, of the few that remained, was the only one that appeared to not have issues, which is why I selected it. I can't say if the type of damage to the others was the same as what's occurring on this one - I didn't pay that much attention. I just saw that this one was the only of its kind that appeared bright green and healthy. 99% of new growth appears unaffected so far, but one of the attached pics shows yellowing of a area, including the new growth. Gardengal, I'd wondered if anthracnose was the issue, but wasn't sure if it might be leaf or - the more destructive - spot anthracnose. Does the yellowing of leaves matter? Thank you both! What other info can I provide?