My iris are just beginning to bloom, and almost all are named. I am also giving descriptions of those that aren't named on my trade page. As they bloom I am adding new ones daily. I have SD, IB and TB. There are about 50 more iris yet to bloom that I will be adding as they open. I am looking for an iris called "Tobacco Road"; I have been searching for weeks without results. Do you know where this iris can be found?

Like Justaguy, I use tall T-posts, spaced 5 feet apart, as support for trellises. I then top each pole with a 1 & 1/4" PVC "T" fitting, through which I run a 3/8" rebar rod between the poles as a top wire. I tie a second rebar rod about 12" from the bottom, and tie vertical strings between the two rods as necessary. The rebar not only prevents sagging at the top, but keeps the strings from sliding together in strong winds. You can see the construction in the photo below: "Pole 191" beans The trellis is about 6 & 1/2 feet tall. I usually run a few horizontal lines of plastic baler twine between the poles as well, and wrap the vertical strings around them as I run them down. The vertical strings are sisal baling twine; beans prefer to climb organic materials. The whole system reinforces itself - I have never lost one of these trellises to strong winds. You can even grow squashes & melons on them... but to do so, use a stronger top support, and a sturdier mesh than string (such as clothes line, or concrete reinforcing wire). Baler twine is very economical for string trellises; it comes in very large rolls, and is highly weather-proof. You can find it at Farm & Fleet stores, or at farm coops. Most of the beans in the photo above were eaten by rabbits, so the spacing was much wider than normal... but it allowed me to show the structure. This is what the trellises look like when fully covered: "Tucomares Chocolate" runner bean (left), "Blue Marbutt" snap bean (right) Yardlong beans "Insuk's Wang Kong" runner beans The reason pole beans are often in their own area is that they create a lot of shade... plus, you need room around them to harvest. If you run trellises only on the north side of the garden (or of each plot), then you can plant other veggies much closer, so the leaf canopies touch at the base. I've done this with tomatoes, and both plants seemed quite happy with the arrangement.

You'll find the answers to all these questions well-covered in the FAQs over on the Growing from Seed forum here. There are also lots of discussions with pictures of the various set-ups used, which ones to avoid using, the problems with using peat pots, the problems with using peat pellets, and the problems covers can cause when used incorrectly, damp-off, transplanting to larger containers once germinated, how to use soil heating pads and various types of growing lights needed, etc. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed forum

Don't want to wire all three to match. It would require pulling new wiring two two zones and would require finding thermostats that would do it. An easier solution would be to remove the burner control wire and cap it off. It would do essentially the same thing, I think. The main zone and the front zone were added at the same time when the house was converted to forced hot water in the 1950s. The back zone, for the kitchen only, was added in 2003 when Mom and Dad redid the kitchen. I don't know exactly why my Grandfather (Dad and Grandpa installed the boiler in 1954ish and as far as I know did the wiring) wired the front zone differently from the main zone, but I suspect it might have something do do with the fact that the front zone controls rooms that he and Grandma really never used unless there was company. What I'm finding to be odd is that no one I've talked to in the HVAC community has ever seen an EL terminal on an R845A controller. I'm going to try calling Honeywell and see what they have to say.