Okay, I've got a few minutes. Let's take a look at some of the questions and objections others have raised. First, let me say this: IMPORTANT SIDE COMMENTS: My purpose in starting this thread was to get help from others in evaluating whether this idea might be viable or not. (It wasn't to try to convince you that doing what I've suggested is the way to go.) Hearing your objections is helpful in figuring out if I've overlooked something important or if there is something that makes this idea a no-go or not worth it from an effort-reward standpoint. In responding to your objections, I'm not trying to be argumentative; rather, my interest is in evaluating whether they are a serious issue or not really a problem (or a problem that can be worked around fairly easily). On this subject, there was a bit of mild sarcasm in my first post on the 16th. I'm sorry. Please excuse me for that. AND NOW THE ACTUAL TECHNICAL CONTENT... Objection #1: Heat build-up is going to be a big problem. Answer: I'm not really sure why that would be, although maybe I'm missing something. If I have what's basically a cage made from insect screen/netting, the sides (and potentially the top) should all have a decent rate of air exchange through them due to air diffusion, if nothing else. This isn't a greenhouse with solid sides and roofing. I would expect it to be a few degrees above the outside ambient temperature on sunny days, but that's about it. Am I estimating temperature build-up incorrectly? Related Objections: Ventilation! Humidity! Regarding ventilation, we don't get a lot of wind around here in the summer and plants still manage to do okay. As mentioned above, air will diffuse through the screen, resulting in a situation that I would guess is not that much different from what it would be with no screen at all. Nevertheless, I could periodically run a fan if needed to circulate the air. Regarding humidity, air diffusion through the screen ought to keep it in line with the area outside the structure. Objection #2: It won't stop pests, or at least not plum curculio - no screen mesh anywhere is fine enough to stop plum curculio. Answer: Are you sure? The screen ought to stop moths (e.g. the Oriental Fruit Moth). As for plum curculio, check out http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/Anti-Insect-Screen/productinfo/IS-AI/ - they say this stuff will stop western flower thrips. Compare the size of western flower thrips (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_flower_thrips) to that of plum curculio (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plum_curculio). Although I'd like to finish this post, I really need to go now - hopefully can get back with you all in the next couple of days. Thanks!

Elizabeth: I have a BC 12 X 16 Cross Country, the Anniversary Model, with the sloping roof, raised on a short kneewall to give a 10 height to the roof. No photos yet, as it's still a work in progress and for now, it's blizzarding again and other than absolute need to go outside, we are snugged in for winter. Because of our winters, the entire GH foundation is insulated under and out 2 ft and the floor, which is currently only half done, will be 12 x 12 glazed quarry tile. There is a channel drain across the floor center width of the GH that drains to a sump located under the sink, which will have a 5 gal. point of use water heater. The sump is connected to a long gray water line, set at 4 ft., comfortably below our frost line. Ditto the water line. The GH is heated with a 45,000 btu dual combustion nat. gas furnace that burns only fresh air from outside, and so far, it's proven both effective and cheap to operate, even with the sub-zero weather we have had for the past few weeks. The GH came with 4 roof vents that will be fitted with screens and to keep insects from being sucked into the GH through the intake vents, we constructed 6" deep shadow box frames, fitted them on the outside of the intakes and mounted screens to the faces. This allows the shutters to open without hitting the screens and provides a handy "box" to fill with thick foam insulating for winter. Our biggest challenge was to devise a means to mount the ceiling fans, and was one of the reasons why we built up, to get a higher ceiling inside, to allow us to mount the fans and leave plenty of safe space under the blades. We will mount 2" square aluminum tubing across the width of the GH 8 ft. high, connecting them to the polybars that form the "studs" then cross them down the length, creating a grid of ceiling rafters. We will then have a secure and sturdy frame to mount the ceiling fans and long strip lights. One of the greatest advantages of using ceiling fans is their ability to suck a LOT of air up from the floor and out the roof vents and mine will be mounted under just off center from the roof vents, at opposite ends of the GH, so they can be set to pull up in summer, and to run each in opposite directions in winter, to circulate warm air throughout the GH. I too am very sensitive to the need for care regarding electricity around water and the GH has it's own weatherproof, grounded circuit box. I also have a absolute loathing of extension cords, so will have outlets set every 2 ft in a line along the walls at about 48" with all wires in PVC. I'm also planning an air line along at least one length, connected to one of my big blowers, but haven't yet decided if I'll use rigid pipe, or stick with the clear 3/8th vinyl tubing, which is cheap and pretty easy to cut and change, but needs more support. Don't laugh, but those blowers may have been the real driving force of my decision to get the tanks out of my basement. Being able to connect as many tanks as I want, with all the force I need with enough left over to require bleeding off the excess is wonderful. A 50 CFM air pump can blow out a dozen 100 gal. tanks and then some, but oh, the racket! Misters are simply very small water nozzles, set in narrow tubes, that can be set on timers, or manually operated. I first experienced their ability to cool air while sitting under an awning on a patio in AZ in August and was amazed at how well the misters mounted under the awnings kept the temps so much less than just a few feet away, where we could have fried eggs on the hoods of cars. You asked about tank lights. I honestly don't know yet, but expect to need them if I'm going to use the GH as a fish room year round. I do know I will use only strip lights mounted above the tanks. No hoods; just glass or screen covers. The few tanks currently in the GH have lights on them, set on timers. I also only have a small air pump plugged in, to run vey low pressure airstones; just enough to keep the water from becomming stagnant. One tank is filling itself with Java Moss and the only "live" things in them now are blood red ramshorn snails; my prime algae defense and snacks for my Clown Loaches, that love them. But I haven't the heart to dump even some cull Gups out there just yet, let alone any of my Clowns, 3 of which are now at 14" and I am pretty sure; a trio. That's my real ambition; to get Clowns to spawn. I'll get back here with an e-address for you ASAP.

Well, I removed it tonight. I think it may have belonged to a chickadee that was stalking me while I was cleaning it out (or maybe it was my guilty conscience). Besides, we have bigger fish to fry. I was just outside on the front porch (again) and something is apparently living in the soffits above the porch. Whatever it was ran across the vinyl soffits and was heavy enough to actually make them move...so I'm thinking either a possum or raccoon. I don't think my rosie friends will be able to help me with this one :( Ugh....why do the animals mistake me for SnowWhite??? Tammy

Plants I grow for seed I keep in #5(3 1/2 gal. pots) because I know they will be moved inside for seed. Plants for eating get #15 pots(3X the size). I use recycled hops bags mostly. I like the drawstrings for closing the bag over a branch. Strip a few leaves from where the bag ties around a branch on outside plants. In #5 pots the 5 gal. sized paint strainer or grain bag fits over the whole plant and can be tied or duck taped onto the pot. Put a couple stakes around the edges of the pot tio hold the strainer open etc. A little plant trimming might be needed depending on variety. Get isolated pods in the spring and repot or put the plant in the ground for fall pods. I start my seeds at christmas time here in California and can overwinter stuff outside too.