is this rose archduke charles
starmade
11 years ago
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starmade
11 years agostarmade
11 years agoRelated Discussions
HAVE: Roses and others
Comments (6)Hi, I am interested in the following: Kronprincessin Vikktoria Maggie Caldwell Pink Aunt Honey In addition to the items on my exchange list, I have: Begonia grandis seedlings (hardy) Hakonechloa macra 'Aurea' Iris siberica Butter and Sugar Iris tectorum Heuchera Dale's Strain Heuchera Caramel (small) Toad lilies (small/un-named) Saxifraga stolonifera 'Maroon Beauty' Salvia Dorisiana Corydalis lutea Astilbe 'Red Sentinal' Dictamnus albus & D. albus purpurea Thanks! Kristi...See MoreGarden update and Dec/Jan Blooms :)
Comments (23)You're welcome Jackie. Unfortunately, when we give advice to folks here in California now, we'll need to ask how old their construction is, not just where they are located. If it's less than about twenty years old, it's likely they are dealing with some level of seismic compaction. The newer the construction, the higher the compaction percentage as the percentage of compaction has increased over the years. If it's custom built, perhaps only the house pad was compacted to that density. If it's a tract, everything has that compaction, at least here in the Los Angeles, Ventura, San Bernardino and Riverside Counties areas that I've encountered. Up in Northbridge, in the Santa Clarita Valley, they shaved off the tops of the mesas and built on the red sandstone. Getting Banksiae, Pandorea and Wisteria to grow there was a real chore! Once the houses were built, about six inches of "top soil" was spread everywhere with sod laid on it. Trees were planted in holes drilled into it and many drowned. Keeping the sod alive requires daily watering, like growing turf hydroponically. All the lawns contain drains because any water in the turf runs off as it has no way to soak into soil containing virtually no air space. None of the vines did anything until nearly a year of being fed a 50-50 mix of all purpose organics with Gro Power Plus every month of the year. I began taking care of that garden in its sixth year. Year seven was when the vines took off. Most of the vine and tree roots came to the surface, the only place there was any oxygen, and ran under the sod. Once they really started growing, planting anything else in that soil was nearly impossible. The front yard was the worst. Everything drained down to the public sidewalk where it had no where to go but up and over the concrete. It almost appeared as if there was a broken water main due to the constant weeping across it. There wasn't. It was all irrigation which couldn't seep into the compacted soil. The front walks were lined with Icebergs, which did OK until you reached the lowest end by the public sidewalk. There, the soil soured and the bushes lasted just a few months before they completely drowned. The only cures were either to install French drains (rejected due to cost) or plant the end Icebergs in large pots set on the ground, like using raised beds to help alleviate chronic drainage issues. The pots were heavy foam which looked like concrete and they did their job for several years before requiring replacement. It's really the pits having to excavate huge holes under larger plantings, then installing the plants on a mound where, even after settling, the crowns remain above the soil level where they stand better chances of not drowning. In those conditions, you never want to add any organic material to the planting holes. When organics sit under water, anaerobic bacteria grow and the organics sour. Hydrogen sulfide is created (the soured diaper smell when a pot stops draining) and the plants die. Simply loosening the severely compacted soil and refilling the hole with a large mound over it, then planting the tree, shrub or large rose in the mound and mulching the surface of the soil only, is the safest method. At least in that way, the deeper roots can make use of the trapped water (which they do naturally, anyway) without the soil souring. Feeder roots spread out under the sod and mulch making it difficult to plant anything once there is a dense root mat under everything, but at least the desired plants can be successfully grown. White Birch and California Pepper trees are two of the worst in these situations and what many opt for because of their "beauty". Both have extreme root systems and quickly make use of every particle of "top soil" and every inch of possible root spread. My experience is most people love annuals planted around their Birches. After just a few years, that is an impossibility due to the extreme root mass. Even putting pots under them fails quickly due to the extreme invasion of tree roots, unless they can be maintained completely off the soil with no soil wash out through the drain holes. If there is ANY way for the tree roots to enter the pots, they WILL, very quickly! Kim...See MoreOld Roses available in Dallas - March 7th & 8th
Comments (3)SabalMatt, I know what you mean. I got my 'Provence' lavender from them last year, and will be looking for more of it there this year. No one else seemed to carry it last year. Jeri, I will be looking to nab a 'Ducher' there this year. My cutting I was trying to root didn't make it. I think it will be a nice companion for my 'White Pearl in Red Dragon's Mouth' coming from Vintage. Randy...See MoreA sensuous pleasure.
Comments (16)Glorious Daisy. Suck in all the flower fragrance you can to help you get through Easter Sunday's charcoaled meat fragrance that's going to cover the whole of Greece, including Crete I suppose, significantly contributing to the global greenhouse effct, no doubt. Have the Cretans succumbed to the lamb-on-the-spit mainland tradition or do they still charcoal grill their goatlings in their traditional way for Easter? It's been ages since I last spent Easter on Crete, I'm afraid. Nik This post was edited by nikthegreek on Thu, Apr 17, 14 at 1:06...See Morestarmade
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