I should mention that my experience of losing sweetness of peaches after 20 years of mulching is entirely anecdotal, although I've seen some research that seems to support the connection. I didn't mean to suggest that organic mulch as a permanent weed solution is a problem everywhere or even that I'm certain it's a problem on my own property. I'm only suggesting it may be a problem over time at some sites. What I do know is that the standard advice is to keep tree vigor moderate to produce the highest quality of fruit. Vegetable growers know this applies to tomatoes as well and probably all other annual garden fruits that we call vegetables that are improved by more of their own sugar. I've also learned that fruit trees can do fine in mowed sod once they are established although it was never my preferred management method until I became suspicious of mulch sometimes over invigorating trees I care for. On some sites I continue to mulch peaches and cherries after I stop mulching apples because it supports the vigor I wish to maintain. The point is to keep your trees at the sweet spot, where they are vigorous enough to fight disease and grow perfect fruit and this will have everything to do with what your soil and climate is to begin with. Peaches as a species require more vigor and more nitrogen than apples according to general recommendations. Young trees of all species are best served by keeping them very vigorous so they can overcome competition and pests and achieve their place in the sun and bear large crops quickly. So the best advice I can give is to try to maintain the sweet spot of moderate vigor for bearing trees and watch their growth to determine how you manage them from that.

I also find that it is easy to wait too long to pick Harrow Delight and that it's probably because of being a summer ripening pear (same deal but more so with Tyson). Of course if I was more concerned about them I'd probably be more attentive- I think they start to change color here before they get over ripe. Harrow Delight has grown well for me once it recovers from the transplant. OHXF strains seem to be a bit sluggish in plugging in. Cut back the spurs and favor the most vegetative wood and it should get going. No pear I've grown is necessarily spray-free- at least here in the northeast. Pests can show up after many seasons and this has happened to me at many sites with pears. At my own site E. pears now require more effort than any other fruit I grow, although I haven't tried to sort out which might require less effort. My Harrow Sweet with an Aurora graft gets no special treatment (inconvenient location for spray) and so far does well, but has only been bearing for two years. The Warren pear has me intrigued although I've never grown it. I wonder why it isn't grown more. Does it take forever to come into bearing?

Scot: You may well be right!! I had not considered Quince, since in my experience the fruit has been smaller, lump-ier, and more pear shaped. These fruits were yellow, smooth, oblong and almost 5 inches in length, quite a startling discovery for a mid-december day, particularly with a score or so on the ground. I learned from my reading, prompted by your response, that quince can be that large, can be smooth and oval, etc. Thank you for your response. My daughter was planning to cook one to see if it behaves like a quince--no results as yet. Again, my thanks!!

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