That looks like a contract job. It looks like sears, poulan pro, husky and maybe many others. I paid $519.00 for my poulan pro about 9 or 10 years ago. It is counter rotating tines only, some of that design have a dual rotating design. I have read some have gear and chain problems. The poulan is a cheaper tiller but I have had good luck with mine. Mine was made by AYP.

Larry

Thanks slowpoke! My friend visited and saw the tiller. They met to save miles on the sale the next day. He paid the asking price and has used the tiller with satisfaction, which means both should be happy. I have not seen the tiller but he mentioned "some gears and reversed and forward tine's work".

""The owner said it's like new and that was verified at owner manual 1-800 #. He was also notified that there is warranty on it that is not transferable. Is that a standard practice when that Warranty span s/n matter who is using it? He and the owner ended up having mutual/friends/neighbors. I told him if needed it goes back for warranty work through the original owner"".

I feel the unit is smaller than I expected, due to the price and the 17" path I believe he said the tines works.

Loger, I think most often warranty is not transferable.

My Poulan Pro only had a one or two year warranty. It has the 6.5 Briggs Intek and has been used pretty hard and the only problems I have had were a pin shearing in the wheel hub, which a large nail fixed, a broken throttle cable, which was fixed by wiring it at full throttle, and also had to replace tines.

The new owner will like the 17" tines. I have an old Troy Bilt Horse, Poulan Pro and a mantis. The Poulan is much easier to use than the other two.

Larry

slowpoke_gardener & Others, Thanks and Please Reply To This Statement! " I have read some have gear and chain problems". Please share any links or info on this gear and chain problems, statement. Slack in a gear or chain "shift handle" related linkage is all my friend has questioned (so far on the new tiller). The 1 800 Tech reply was, "what slack".

My questions with my lack of knowledge or seeing the tiller:

1. In general is it usually related to the quality of the gear box with little to do to improve it?

2. Are there improvements that can be made outside the gear box with chains/belts/pulleys/links?

3. Is the gearing issue something that works better as you get use to the tiller?

I Trade Equipment Repairs, Out Of His World Class Garden! LOL

Loger, I dont remember the post where I read these remarks. It appears that some of the problem comes from when the tiller is not stored inside and water gets into the clam shell gear box, or it not being lubed properly. I under stand there is a shift rod that can come loose inside the transmission, also the #35 chain that drives the wheels can break.

My son has a till of a different brand, but looks like mind. His is older than mine and has had no gear or chain problems. (only carb problems, he does not use his as often as I use mine). He has a friend with a tiller almost like ours. His developed a leak where the to clam shell meet on top and the trany filled with water and he kept using it till it broke. He repaired it but it was a nasty job.

I will try to post a picture of mine showing it is much like the one you were asking about. It is a counter rotating tine, so the wheels spin going forward. ( I always till as deep as it will go. Also note that I have a rope tied to the front of it to drag things around the lawn and garden which puts added stress on the #35 drive chain. I dont think it has been rained on in the 9 or 10 years I have owned it so I expect there is no water in my gear box.

Larry

{{gwi:294671}}

slowpoke_gardener, Thanks for the good Pics, tips and info! This will help us a lot due to only owning/working front tine medium grade till since about 1970.

You made a good point about tilling deep as my friend wanted to do with a borrowed 7 or 7.5 HP Troy Bilt rear tine tiller. He was not willing to spend the time in making a number of passes to till deep. Trying to make it till deep, on a single pass caused a weld to break where the handles bolt to the main body.

As usual, I heard, I need help about 8 PM because our friend wanted his tiller back the same day to till the next morning. Thinking it was an arc weld repair and simple as past repairs I learned quick it w/n after seeing the thin handle wire welded to the thick brace. I thought gas welding was my next best option but not on top of that wire weld was my experience. I settle for brazing with excessive flow at all contacting materials vs their two wire welded areas.

My friend needs a Mule And A Middle Buster! LOL

I saw my friend's Ariens tiller, mod # 90102800, and his only basic complaint (at this point). The gear shift connection (F/N/R) has slack at the rod shifting the trans. Too much movement at the connection before the rod moves (F/N/R) pointers are way off (he knew to feel and watch for gears). Probably, a bad key or wear in the rod to key but on a like new tiller questions the quality.

The best full pic is attached but I have others if you have a question of a specific area. I have a good shot of the problem externally and seeing no ext wear says it has to be a lot rod to key.

Engine is Subaur, SP 170, 6 HP Robin. Does that mean Wisconsin Robin Engine related and are they still quality engines? It started and sound like it had plenty quality.

Thanks For Any And All Info!

There some good options and reviews here: http://www.knowitalllearning.com/rear-tine-tiller/

Yes Robin Engine , stout design been around for yrs ! The former wisconsin models were utilized for yrs in the Marine and Mining Sector . The latter Subaru,s have been used substantionally on oil pipelines for wellhead use and auxiliary light on gen sets . World class air cooled engines of gas , diesel and propane design .