Hi
I'm sure they will !! I've had tropical climbers go right up a sheet of glass.lol Would think they would be tough to remove from the cellulose. Couldn't you provide something for them to climb on.??
Wilma damaged my shadehouse and I'm considering turning it into a greenhouse. I'm in Palm Beach county so have even more of a heat problem. I'm afraid any materiel on the outside walls would turn it into an oven,even in winter. Know of any sites geared toward warm climate greenhouses??
I've been told that a swamp cooler will not compensate for the heat gain from the wall covering. Do you find this to be true??
Have a million more questions but will shutup for now lol
gary

Gary,
its hard, but my greenhouse does stay cooler with the swamp cooler going. It also adds humidity (AS IF we need that here in FL in the summer LOL).

One of the reasons I am making this change in plantings across the back wall is that currently, with the large stands of heliconia plants I have planted in that space, they tend to slow down the air flow when the fans are sucking the air through the cellulose, and decrease the effectiveness of the cooler. I have a 36 ft expanse, the vent and swamp cooler go across the whole 36 ft. I had an expanse of heliconias (latispatha, Golden Torch, Golden Torch Adrian, Tropica, and Criswick) going all across the back in a solid heliconia grove. Once they topped 8 ft, which was the first year they were planted, the airflow through the vent could no longer come through strong enough to help out the front of the greenhouse (48 feet forward). Especially because the air is also going through all the large growing plantings (heliconias, etlingeras, calatheas etc) in the center space.

Even with this drawback, when its 90+ outside, I can keep the interior in the low 80's. The attic heat is another thing, I had to add extra fans at the 12 ft level to help dissipate that heat. (I have a 20 ft gable)

My greenhouse is covered in single thickness corrugated clear Lexan. They tried to talk me into the opaque Lexan for heat deflection purposes, but I felt I needed the extra light from the clear. And I did. Everything blooms so well, and things that need more shade or broken light I just plant as understory to the large growing plants. My vandaceous orchids (which make up over 50% of my orchid collection) love the high light in the greenhouse and bloom year round.

Its also a "loose" house. There are a lot of little places that outside air can seep in. In winter, to make it more efficient for heat retention, I weatherstrip some of those places to decrease heat leakage. In summer I leave it as open as I can. I lock the sliding door and stuff bubblewarp into crevices and tape it in.

I want to change the back of the house to a more manageable, low growing plantscape to help increase air flow, and also I am just tired of what I have and need a place to plant my Licualas, my Pelagodoxa henryiana, and my 2 new Joey Palms! The only heliconia I am leaving is the Criswick, which is just too gorgeous to ax. Its in the corner so its not as obstructive. I have a Rangoon Creeper growing in that corner, and a Thunbergia myesorensis in the opposite corner. I am going to try to make totems for the philos, and also for some broms (little colorful Fireball hybrids like Eoz, Zoe, Superball, etc) I saw some nice alternatives to treefern where they had taken and made a cylinder of stiff chickenwire with a diameter of maybe 4 inches and filled it with orchid bark. This could be bent into any path I want and anchored/wired to the greenhouse walls so that the roots of the plants wouldn't actually attach to the cellulose pad, but they might still get some benefit from the falling water.

Getting rid of the high growing plants also opens up a shelf above the cellulose pad that gets full great sun for high light bromeliads like Billbergias that need that light to get their color and markings going.

Bihai
Thanks for the info. My shadehouse was ascreenroom at the beginning.When I added birds I put up screen an hardware cloth. It was damaged by Wilma so had to remove the birds and thought it a good time to make it into a true greenhouse.. I have added plastic to the outside during winter, Not a good idea worked during the 28 degree night but the next day soared to 125 by 4 pm. lol
What i have been doing since then is partial covering with frost cloth and forced heat from the house.Generally this works fine but has cold spots. I heat my large aquarium and pool so it can't frost. My main concern is for the birds. Supposedly they should not be exposed to temps below 60 even though they naturally range into some very high mountains.lol
But figured while repairing might as well do it right. Now if I can just figure out what right is lol.
gary

I don't have birds, but do have a few squatting squirrels in there (lol) as well as burrowing toads, green tree frogs and the occasional butterfly that gets in when the door is open.
Its hard to keep a greenhouse cool in summer in SO FL and have it warm when those few nights below freezing occur. Maybe you should wrap it in screen again, and do detachable polyfilm sheeting? I have done this with several smaller temporary structures and it works REALLY WELL. I made a lean-to once attached to the side of my garage shed room that I could just go out and roll up the sides when the sun came up, roll them back down at night if needed. You go to Home Depot of Lowes and get these metal pipe fittings that you can screw into the wall or eave of the roof. Our garage shed roof was extremely low, about 7 ft (1920's house) on the side I did this. Then you get PVC pipe that fits into that fitting, straight lenghths for the "ceiling" and a curved piece,then more straight pieces for the "walls". Then you take either 4 mil or 6 mil poly film (from the paint dept, comes in big rolls) and cut pieces just to fit, over the "roof"...then either use snap clamps of a staple gun or even duct tape and fasten the film to the pipe. That piece is "permanent".
Then you cut pieces to fit the "walls" that loosely overlap, and attach them to the roof pipes permanently, but make them in sections where you can roll each one up individually and tape it back out of the way in the day. AT night you just untape and let them come down into place, and tape loosely to overlap closed. Works very well.

On a permanent structure already covered with screen, you can just use a staple gun to tack the film, in sections, all around the structure, and do the same thing...drop and tape at night, roll up and stow during the day.

Its cheap and very effective in a climate where you don't really need something like permanent polycarb panels.

Bihai
I had tried something similar in the past. The problem was I went to work before dawn and came home after dark lol
Even with fans it got over a hundred degrees and of course the temp was dropping by the time I got home.
Except for frost i find most tropicals tolerate low temps very well, in fact, seems to be good for them,long term.
I was told by an engineer the only real solution was UV anIR blocking carbolyte. with automatic refrigeration. He's probably right for every square inch to be utilized but the cost would be mind boggling lol.
Do you know of any greenhouse sites geared toward heat rather than cold?? Some local examples are the Rare plant house at Fairchild and the AOS houses in Delray.In my opinion they are far more complicated and expensive then necessary.......Thanks
gary