Hello cugal, Have you found this thread? Dewey1945 has written a great blog on the construction of his Harbor Freight 6x8: Improving your 6x8 HFGH And here is a direct link to his blog: Building and Improving the Harbor Freight 6x8" I know the manuals change for all the Harbor Freight greenhouses, over time, but no matter what they seem to stay a little confusing. There are many similarities between the different sizes, but the parts numbers are different. In case it helps, though, here's a link to my 10x12 blog: Building our 10x12 Harbor Freight Greenhouse I hope you will post here if you need help, as folks here are pretty good about chiming in.

You have us beat by weeks and weeks! Ah, for those who can't appreciate it....fresh tomatoes on North Coast in June, that's something.

Ya know, it's funny... One of the roof vents binds (and I attribute that to the structure being 'slightly less than perfectly square'). The window brace (#51) on that side has also managed to twist itself slightly, since installation. That's the vent on the "north" side of the GH and I don't think I'll be putting a self-opener on that one (*I* get to be the automatic window-opener!!!). The window vent on the south side seems to open and close easily (:::shrug:::). Since that's the side that's exposed to sunlight, I'll put the solar vent opener over there. As far as the door goes: I've futzed around with that endlessly! I tried cleaning the track thoroughly (leaves, dust, dirt, etc.) and sprayed it with McLube (Sail lubricant - for sailboats - it's non-greasy). I'm a little leary of using anything called "grease" since it's outside, and Grease + Dirt = Yuk! (Or is Silicone Grease not really "greasy?!!"). I can get the door to open/close with "relative ease." Meaning I don't have to wrestle with it, but it definitely does take both hands! The thing that's giving me grief is the little plastic "lip" piece (Excuse me, "Door Bottom Slider" #40). It stays on the track, but pops off when the door is almost fully open. I can't seem to find a way to "lower" the upper door slider-track, so I'm thinking I need to shim (and/or bend) up the bottom instead. Dave, what was your experience with this? Thanks! -Nancy

Insulation on North wall and North top is 1 sheet per top or side of Dow foil foam. The joint is taped longitudinally with reflective 4 inch duct tape material. Top is held in place with the bolts that are pre-positioned in the roof rafter tracks for hagning plants next spring. Sun-side panels are pre cut, sealed with duct tape and numbered to be taken off and put back on during sunny days. Air leaks - anywhere you see outside light, you have an air leak. Use silicon seal to plug every one you can find. ALso check your base plate - if the wood is at all uneven, there may be a leak there unless a leak proff seal was put down before the HFGH was built on the base. If you need more info or better photos, email me privately newfvt@sover.net You are in Portland - same relative zone as we are. Steve Here is a link that might be useful: attached HFGH pics with insulation